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Thread: Corksport Stage II SRI help!

  1. #41
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    9,459

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    Quote Originally Posted by GibbA View Post
    ZZB is the reference we give to the engine blowing up, Mazda slogan play on words




    Disagree with v2 being 500...

    Pick them up much cheaper than that. Same with hypertech.
    Can you direct me to the thread of the gen2 with ZZB from just an Sri? Very Intrigued as I find it difficult to believe that was the cause of his car blowing up...

    Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
    Never seen one zzb, seen a couple have fuel pump fail over on MSF though... That CAN lead to zzb

    Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
    Newbie FAQ My Build Thread
    From stock, to GT3071, to substantially less modded, many lessons learned!
    3" HTP | 100 Cel DP | Autotech HPFP | AP V3 - Self Tuned on E20 | JBR RSB | CPE S2 REM | JBR Shifter Bushings

  2. #42

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    Quote Originally Posted by GibbA View Post
    ZZB is the reference we give to the engine blowing up, Mazda slogan play on words




    Disagree with v2 being 500...

    Pick them up much cheaper than that. Same with hypertech.
    Can you direct me to the thread of the gen2 with ZZB from just an Sri? Very Intrigued as I find it difficult to believe that was the cause of his car blowing up...

    Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
    Gibba I never said ZZB from an SRI,
    I said an untuned Engine can lead to all sorts of problems like ZZB.

    i was just advising that I wouldn't run an SRI without at least a stage 1
    //BNR3//HDI FMIC//HTP 3" intake//
    // Ecutek tune//CPE DP/ HPFP//
    // Tein performance street Coilovers //
    // Whiteline RSB// 240kwATW bum Dyno //

  3. #43

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    Quote Originally Posted by chef View Post
    Gibba I never said ZZB from an SRI,
    I said an untuned Engine can lead to all sorts of problems like ZZB.

    i was just advising that I wouldn't run an SRI without at least a stage 1
    Ah ok, sorry about the mis-interpretation.
    Well I do agree it is good advice to get fuel pump. Good first few mods are rmm, ap and fp. That said I had more problems on my ots map than the stock tune..

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    --> 2008 Metro Grey Sports Pack Gen1 <--

    CS SRI ll CS TIP ll CS AB ll 2XS SSP ll 2XS FMIC ll SURE Anchors ll Enkei RPF1's 17x9 +45 ll Lamin-X Fog Tint ll DBA T3 4000 series ll Remsa pads ll Braided lines
    CP-E S2 RMM ll Hankook RS3 235/40/17 ll Forge V1 BPV ll Whiteline RSB ll AutoTech HPFP
    ll Spin-on Conversion ll Rear Diffuser
    DGR Coilovers ll LED Replacement lights ll "08-MPS" plates ll Cobb AP V3 (E85) ll CP-e TBE ll OCC






  4. #44

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    Yep OTS tunes are a bit hit and miss.
    As member is concerned with warrenty I thinks a RSB ,RMM,FP internals will be a good start

  5. #45

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    Quote Originally Posted by GibbA View Post
    Intake temp is usually 1-2 degree higher than amb for me and you won't see that without a box.
    Also, difference in temp number is power Lol. Colder is denser and makes more power. Do a pull when it's 15 degrees or something when when it's cool, and do one when it's hot. They will be different, you'll see. Even better, do a virtual Dyno of both and overlay them. If they are done in the same spot same direction, same weight, the cooler one will show more power. Guaranteed.

    Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
    As much as colder air equals more power (in theory), physically it doesn't make much noticeable difference (unless we are talking about a big temp difference). Wasn't there a debate of CAI and SRI, where someone proved that CAI doesn't make much noticeable difference, hence the conclusion that CAI's a waste of money over SRI.

    If that's true, same will applied here, so if one do actually feel a noticeable physical difference in power with a few temp difference (assuming a non box would be at most 4-5 degree over amb), the gain would most likely be in the person's mind. Don't get me wrong, the gain would be there, but just not noticeably. *Note how i kept saying the word "noticeable"*

    In any case, for me, it only shows slower rise of air temp, and not gaining lower temp than the lowest figure before.
    When in doubt, power out....of control.

  6. #46

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    Quote Originally Posted by lovecolt View Post
    As much as colder air equals more power (in theory), physically it doesn't make much noticeable difference (unless we are talking about a big temp difference). Wasn't there a debate of CAI and SRI, where someone proved that CAI doesn't make much noticeable difference, hence the conclusion that CAI's a waste of money over SRI.

    If that's true, same will applied here, so if one do actually feel a noticeable physical difference in power with a few temp difference (assuming a non box would be at most 4-5 degree over amb), the gain would most likely be in the person's mind. Don't get me wrong, the gain would be there, but just not noticeably. *Note how i kept saying the word "noticeable"*

    In any case, for me, it only shows slower rise of air temp, and not gaining lower temp than the lowest figure before.
    I certainly agree that a cai for the most part would be a waste of money over a Sri with box. It however would be an advantage if you had an SRI without a box.
    I also agree that the difference wouldn't be large, and to an extent it can often be in the mind, (if you want to see an increase you'll make yourself see one) but I do believe there is a difference.

    I was sceptical about how can just putting a box on the intake can make it cooler, but it does. Also it does have openings on the bottom of the box, getting air from below that's come in the lower front grill, and allows air to come in behind the headlights, but blocks air being sucked in from the side of the engine. This combined means that the intake air will be cooler.

    Also, I've been taking data readings recently of ambient temperature, intake temperature and boosted air temperature. What I've found so far is from low to mid 20s (amb), bat is about 15-17c higher than iat but when amb (and hence iat) gets up to around 30 or so, then bat climbs to 25 or so above iat. (all these readings have been taken in the same spot of my logging road, same gear and same speed).
    It kinda shows and backs up as @Rayd has always told me, getting IATs down helps and all the little bits add up.

    That's my findings of what I've been recording and kinda is a bit of proof with evidence backing it up...

    Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
    --> 2008 Metro Grey Sports Pack Gen1 <--

    CS SRI ll CS TIP ll CS AB ll 2XS SSP ll 2XS FMIC ll SURE Anchors ll Enkei RPF1's 17x9 +45 ll Lamin-X Fog Tint ll DBA T3 4000 series ll Remsa pads ll Braided lines
    CP-E S2 RMM ll Hankook RS3 235/40/17 ll Forge V1 BPV ll Whiteline RSB ll AutoTech HPFP
    ll Spin-on Conversion ll Rear Diffuser
    DGR Coilovers ll LED Replacement lights ll "08-MPS" plates ll Cobb AP V3 (E85) ll CP-e TBE ll OCC






  7. #47

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    Quote Originally Posted by GibbA View Post

    Also, I've been taking data readings recently of ambient temperature, intake temperature and boosted air temperature. What I've found so far is from low to mid 20s (amb), bat is about 15-17c higher than iat but when amb (and hence iat) gets up to around 30 or so, then bat climbs to 25 or so above iat. (all these readings have been taken in the same spot of my logging road, same gear and same speed).
    It kinda shows and backs up as @Rayd has always told me, getting IATs down helps and all the little bits add up.

    That's my findings of what I've been recording and kinda is a bit of proof with evidence backing it up...

    Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
    hold on........how do your BAT climbs to 25 above IAT when you are moving?? That's way too high for a FMIC......or even a TMIC??

    Otherwise, yes little bits adds up
    When in doubt, power out....of control.

  8. #48

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    Quote Originally Posted by lovecolt View Post
    hold on........how do your BAT climbs to 25 above IAT when you are moving?? That's way too high for a FMIC......or even a TMIC??

    Otherwise, yes little bits adds up
    Thats what I question too.. But that's the numbers the ap tells me.
    Readings taken at 95km/h in 6th gear..

    Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
    --> 2008 Metro Grey Sports Pack Gen1 <--

    CS SRI ll CS TIP ll CS AB ll 2XS SSP ll 2XS FMIC ll SURE Anchors ll Enkei RPF1's 17x9 +45 ll Lamin-X Fog Tint ll DBA T3 4000 series ll Remsa pads ll Braided lines
    CP-E S2 RMM ll Hankook RS3 235/40/17 ll Forge V1 BPV ll Whiteline RSB ll AutoTech HPFP
    ll Spin-on Conversion ll Rear Diffuser
    DGR Coilovers ll LED Replacement lights ll "08-MPS" plates ll Cobb AP V3 (E85) ll CP-e TBE ll OCC






  9. #49

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    Quote Originally Posted by GibbA View Post
    Thats what I question too.. But that's the numbers the ap tells me.
    Readings taken at 95km/h in 6th gear..

    Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
    hmmm......better check if something's heating up your cold pipe as mine's doing near 20 degree over IAT for that. Would only get 25 degree if i'm struck in Sydney Traffic jam.
    When in doubt, power out....of control.

  10. #50

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    Quote Originally Posted by lovecolt View Post
    hmmm......better check if something's heating up your cold pipe as mine's doing near 20 degree over IAT for that. Would only get 25 degree if i'm struck in Sydney Traffic jam.
    Do you have fmic or tmic?

    Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
    --> 2008 Metro Grey Sports Pack Gen1 <--

    CS SRI ll CS TIP ll CS AB ll 2XS SSP ll 2XS FMIC ll SURE Anchors ll Enkei RPF1's 17x9 +45 ll Lamin-X Fog Tint ll DBA T3 4000 series ll Remsa pads ll Braided lines
    CP-E S2 RMM ll Hankook RS3 235/40/17 ll Forge V1 BPV ll Whiteline RSB ll AutoTech HPFP
    ll Spin-on Conversion ll Rear Diffuser
    DGR Coilovers ll LED Replacement lights ll "08-MPS" plates ll Cobb AP V3 (E85) ll CP-e TBE ll OCC






  11. #51

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    Quote Originally Posted by GibbA View Post
    Do you have fmic or tmic?

    Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
    Cpe fmic

    Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk

  12. #52

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    Comparing temps mean nothing most important is FMIC ability to shead heat at wot. AIT -wot

  13. #53

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    Your temps do seem high @GibbA
    time for meth

  14. #54

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    Quote Originally Posted by chef View Post
    Your temps do seem high @GibbA
    time for meth
    I do have a leak between turbo and tb so am wondering if this is contributing to high temps. But yes meth is being installed.
    Anyway I think this thread is quite off track.. Oops :/

    Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
    --> 2008 Metro Grey Sports Pack Gen1 <--

    CS SRI ll CS TIP ll CS AB ll 2XS SSP ll 2XS FMIC ll SURE Anchors ll Enkei RPF1's 17x9 +45 ll Lamin-X Fog Tint ll DBA T3 4000 series ll Remsa pads ll Braided lines
    CP-E S2 RMM ll Hankook RS3 235/40/17 ll Forge V1 BPV ll Whiteline RSB ll AutoTech HPFP
    ll Spin-on Conversion ll Rear Diffuser
    DGR Coilovers ll LED Replacement lights ll "08-MPS" plates ll Cobb AP V3 (E85) ll CP-e TBE ll OCC






  15. #55
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    North side, Vic
    Age
    37
    Posts
    6,745

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    Untuned with an intake is fine. If you are running a cork sport intake you will be fine.

    The CS intake is a great bit of kit and makes it legal in most states here in aus. Temps are also much better.

    Cork sport are now vendors so you can deal with them direct here and setup a group buy!

  16. #56
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    North side, Vic
    Age
    37
    Posts
    6,745

  17. #57

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jmac View Post
    Untuned with an intake is fine. If you are running a cork sport intake you will be fine.

    The CS intake is a great bit of kit and makes it legal in most states here in aus. Temps are also much better.

    Cork sport are now vendors so you can deal with them direct here and setup a group buy!
    thanks for that. i hear different things from different people lol.

    i guess i'm gonna have to decide myself and see how it goes.

  18. Default

    Hey LJeezy, did you end up running the Corksport Stage 2 SRI with stock FP? If so how did that go? I'm thinking of getting the intake but don't wanna purchase it and then realising later that i have to do an upgrade on FP.

  19. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rlhchung View Post
    Hey LJeezy, did you end up running the Corksport Stage 2 SRI with stock FP? If so how did that go? I'm thinking of getting the intake but don't wanna purchase it and then realising later that i have to do an upgrade on FP.

    If all you have is an intake then you will be fine without a HPFP upgrade. You will start to need it when you add a DP and TMIC!
    Cheers,
    Brandon Johnson
    CorkSport Mazda Performance
    (360)260-2675 ext. 106
    BrandonJ@corksport.com


    CorkSport.Com

  20. #60

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    while on topic
    if i have 3 inch TIP + 3 inch Corksport SRI i should be ok with out a tune ( will eventually get a COBB AP and tune)

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