VVT alignment

[Fi5h]

Hey everyone,

Last weekend i did my VVT and all the other bits and peaces. I got a bit ahead of myself however when removing the VVT and forgot to mark it. I had a go at popping the new one on where i thought it came off. After putting the car back together i found it isnt running right (rough idle, low power, 12PSI). Boost leak test done.

I want to take it all apart again to re-do the VVT correctly as ive read alignment does matter but cant find how to do this properly. Can anyone help me out please?

Cheers.

[MPS2NV]

Did you read any of my threads on VVT replacement?

[MPS2NV]

http://www.ozmpsclub.com/forum/engin...placement.html

[Fi5h]

Yeah had a couple that i read. One was from OZmps and the other from MSF.

Is there something obvious I've missed and im asking a dumb question.

[MPS2NV]

As you found out the VVT isn't keyed, to ensure correct alignment the best method is to reset the whole valve train using the correct alignment tools.

[Fi5h]

The whole thing isn't keyed which was new to me (not that ive ever really worked on cars at all). The timing was checked and all lines up (TDCP, cam tool and crank sesor) its the position off the VVT to the oil holes on the cam that im suspecting is the fault.

I just looked at the holes on the VVT and the shaft and went close enough, not realising alignment is needed with this item.

[chef]

Rough idle should be the least of your worries your lucky no zzb.
Anyone who tries vvt and chain would have to have balls of steel.
Many have tried and failed and zzb,
i would get a forum member to take a look

[Rayd]

Where abouts are you located?

[Fi5h]

Yeah well it really wasn't as hard as people make out (even though mine isnt working properly now). The timing all lines up so to me it shouldnt hurt the motor not being about to actuate the timing. It hasnt given me any CEL's and i know it throws all sorts of CEL's for timing if done wrong.

The idle isnt really rough i guess. Just high (1000 RPM and surges). The car drives normally its only when i put the foot down it seems sluggish.

I think i found the DP harder. After that hair pulling long weekend i was ready to sell the thing.

- - - Updated - - -

Biloela Queensland

[SarcasticOne]

Take it to a Mazda dealer...
They'll have the tools...
It's not so much that it's "hard" as the ease with which you can f*ck it up, and damage your motor...

[Fi5h]

Well i fcuked something up. . .

I'll defently try again before paying someone. Funding is not high for me haha.

If i shage it well cheap car for someone lol

[Spanna]

May or may not be related but a tip is never turn a motor backwards the hydraulic tensioner and guide hate it and can fail. All slack should be on that side. I have done plenty of valve/crank timing (chains and belts). The valves are a good way to test true no#1 TDC all lobes on the cam on that cylinder will be pointing up. Take it back apart to what you think TDC 1 is and use a long screwdriver down no#1 spark plug hole to find the rocking point (crank is now aligned)fine adjustments to marks can be done. Cams always have a mark on them align inlet and exhaust cams with no#1 lobes up and find the marks near the no#1 cam journal.Hard to explain and no I havn't had the mazda apart yet but the terminology is the same. The most important thing to suggest is to turn the engine over by hand through 2 crank cycles before you even think of key starting it. That's my advice and cudos to you for giving it a go well done. Anyone else know if the mazda's are an interference motor? I would like to know as well.

[Fi5h]

I have been thinking of making a gauge out of the old spark plugs with rod down it to move the gauge to find TDC. I did not know about not rocking the motor backwards. I used to have a 626 and it was a very forgiving motor. I re did all timing and ignition on it and it went smoothly but even if the timing was wrong the valves would never touch the pistons. Hand as.

Thanks for the advice and time to.

[MPS2NV]

Not many engines aren't. Invest in the tools.

[RadiantKnackers]

The MPS DISI motor, and even the MZR motor, are both extremely touchy about their timing setup.

Experienced shops and engine builders have made a mess out of this task.

My advice is the same as it always has been. If you are not sure about what you are doing, then do not try this, and if you think this is the same as other motors, you are wrong.

[Fi5h]

Fair enough. Here are pics of the timing after i turned the motor over by hand twice.


So with the TDCP in the crank sensor and the cam tool all line up.

Edit: that first photo is before the new VVT and chain. I didnt take a after photo. My bad. But the tool slipped in fully not like in that photo I've uploaded.

[MPS2NV]

Did you align the crank angle sensor correctly with the pulley and the pulley with the timing case?

[Fi5h]

How do you mean with the timing case? I had a bolt through the pully into the case with the crank against the TDCP and the sensor on the same tooth it used to point at while the cam tool was in.

[Rayd]

Yes but did you remove the crank position sensor at all?
And if so did you put it in the exact position as per the workshop manual?

[Fi5h]

Some closure to my question was found last night!

The manual says to make sure it's marked VVT upon removal.... There are no marks pre existing. So it sounds like I'm shafted haha ill just have try to line up the oil holes a bit better and hope for the best.

Yes the sensor was removed and it's poison was changed to face the magnetic tooth 20th along the sprocket. Like it used to before I removed it.