Heat Soak Your thoughts

[Spanna]

Just my 2c worth but ditch the single thermo with the speed flap things and modify a ford el-ba falcon dual fans. EG one for std thermo switch cooling and one over ridden manually on a switch. This will pull some serious clean air through your radiator even at 88degrees c it will be airflow at lights as you stated you need. These fans have a bent blade and low current draw once started and come with awesome shrouds all for round $100 and from memory are slim enough to fit. You wouldn't ceramic coat youroil cap for that price.PS I have used these fans to cool big cammed auto V8's with success. Cheers

[shaneski]

Or in the Gen 2s you can just put the aircon on so the fan comes on and keeps the engine around 85c temps in traffic, when you put the foot down or the engine is under load the aircon instanty switches off.

[RedDjinn]

Cool food for thought

[chef]

Lag and i enjoy doing the impossible, when someone says i cant i like to find a way .. Looking at 26psi on the GTX35

The HDI that Jase has depeloped for the Gen 2 has minimal lag with less than half the pressure drop of a Bar and plate TMIC and FMIC ,0.2 psi so lag is pretty much non existent

[chef]

Or in the Gen 2s you can just put the aircon on so the fan comes on and keeps the engine around 85c temps in traffic, when you put the foot down or the engine is under load the aircon instanty switches off.

Might try this on the Gen 1, having air con on looses HP too

[RedDjinn]

Might try this on the Gen 1, having air con on looses HP too

But the gen 2 switches off under load yes @shaneski? cuz i didn't know that ....

[Rayd]

The AC will turn off in all MPS's under WOT

[shaneski]

Is there a setting in the AP that can turn the engine fan on what ever temp you select it to run?

[SarcasticOne]

Is there a setting in the AP that can turn the engine fan on what ever temp you select it to run?

Nope

[Doug_MPS6]

Talk to the guys in the Austin Healey or MG Car Clubs and find out who louvred their bonnets. They look much better than stuck-in vented apertures.

As engines become more confined in the available spaces, with V configurations and transverse engines becoming more common to reduce bonnet length, weight and height and improve aerodynamics, engine bay temps are steadily rising. Underneath aerodynamic shrouding, turbos and cats just add to the problem.


Here are a few examples to choose from: https://www.google.com.au/search?q=l...iw=652&bih=458

[bd581]

Radiator fan is mainly going to effect only the engine water temperature. Engine water temperature is controlled by the thermostat. Opening to allow cool water through the engine when the water is above a pre defined temperature by the thermostat
It will have next to no effect on what is the problem Luke is talking about. residual heat.
You need to get the heat that is hanging around your intake and turbo etc out of the engine bay. As on a MPS the heat producing bits (turbo and exhaust) is on the back side of the motor its very difficult to even at speed use flowing air to cool that area down, there just simply is not enough room.

[lovecolt]

Also if you have a fmic, the increased radiator fan blowing, will make the bats even worse as the end of the cold pipe will be running all along where the rad fan's blowing.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk

[dazza]

Also removed both weather stripping on mine (front and rear). Makes a noticeable difference in traffic, heat waves can escape thru small gaps
people go on about windows fogging up, never really an issue for me without stripping

[Fizzy]

Also removed both weather stripping on mine (front and rear). Makes a noticeable difference in traffic, heat waves can escape thru small gaps
people go on about windows fogging up, never really an issue for me without stripping

Did you notice any movement of the bonnet when driving along @ highways speeds?

[son of eevil]

What's this weather striping you guys mention? Is that the rubber seal at the back on top of the shroud?

[Rayd]

What's this weather striping you guys mention? Is that the rubber seal at the back on top of the shroud?

yep thats it , the strip that runs across the back of the bonnet nearest to the windscreen wipers.

[son of eevil]

yep thats it , the strip that runs across the back of the bonnet nearest to the windscreen wipers.

Does it require an adhesive to stick it back down later?

[Rayd]

Does it require an adhesive to stick it back down later?

Nope, its all held in by these plastic tabs which stretch over. literally a 20 second job to remove and reinstall.

[son of eevil]

Nope, its all held in by these plastic tabs which stretch over. literally a 20 second job to remove and reinstall.

Cheers I'll probably do this.

[Oldhead]

Definately the answer is to vent the bonnet as per many replies , air flow across bonnet will create a low pressure area towards rear of bonnet and hot air should be sucked out as per previous replies.
Have been wanting to do this venting or louvers for ages .
(1) removal of rear seal + adding washer to underside of bonnet hinges will assist, (looks?????are negative) . benefits ( no water ingress ) whilst travelling .
(2) dont cut holes to bonnet , best way though expensive is to have bonnet press louvered by sheet metal shop and repaint bonnet . ( louvers /vents face backwards and are raised ,rain will be forced upwards and air speed will drag water towards windscreen.
My thoughts have been to roll /press vents to either side of bonnet raised area as far back as possible .
Just havent had time or guts to operate on the bonnet .