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Thread: No power to coils

  1. #1

    Default No power to coils

    Hi guys
    I desperate need some help with this…
    All of the sudden my MPS 6 refused to start. After a few tries it started and was working fine in idle…Tried to move it and as soon as I pressed the gas pedal the engine stopped…
    Took it to the mechanic and he told me that there is no power to coils from the ECU and that the compression on the first 3 cylinders is 75 and on the forth 100…So he told me to remove the cylinder head and check the valves and also look for a replacement ECU!
    Any help would be much appreciated as its going to be very expensive to remove the head and replace the ECU.
    Will the AP help diagnose the problem?

  2. #2

    Default

    Replace the ECU ouch sounds a bit extreme, I haven't herd of anyone having to replace an ECU before,
    a bit worrying only 75 across the first 3 cylinders
    What state u in?
    Is the mechanic u took it to experienced on this platform?
    Last edited by chef; 16-11-2013 at 06:35 AM.

  3. #3

    Default

    I know its a bit extreme for the ECU...He is experienced mechanic but I don't think much on MPS…
    I live in NSW.
    Help!
    Thanks


    Quote Originally Posted by chef View Post
    Replace the ECU ouch sounds a bit extreme, I haven't herd of anyone having to replace an ECU before,
    a bit worrying only 75 across the first 3 cylinders
    What state u in?
    Is the mechanic u took it to experienced on this platform?

  4. #4

    Default

    Sorry Mate this problem goes over my head .
    I'm not dissing your mechanic but I would get a second opinion from mazda or Tunehouse because it sound serious from the symptoms described or it could be simple,
    better IMOA better to get a proper diagnosis from the pros in the industry and it could save u in the end.

  5. #5

    Default

    No worries mate. I know
    What worries me is that it happened all of the sudden. My partner switched it off and never started again. Only once and was working fine on idle until I tried to move it. Then it stopped
    I will go over there and try and get some logs and error codes from the AP.
    It also happened on Monday when he had heavy rain here...

    Quote Originally Posted by chef View Post
    Sorry Mate this problem goes over my head .
    I'm not dissing your mechanic but I would get a second opinion from mazda or Tunehouse because it sound serious from the symptoms described or it could be simple,
    better IMOA better to get a proper diagnosis from the pros in the industry and it could save u in the end.
    Last edited by jnin; 16-11-2013 at 07:06 AM.

  6. #6

    Default

    Hmmm.

    Suppose a couple of questions are needed first, though I'm not sure I can sort this one either.

    Do you have a cold air intake?

    Were the coils removed, and was there water pooled in the top of the valve cover around them?

    Have you checked all the fuses?

    Worst till last. Do you have any type of intake, and has the clamp near the wiring loom to the ECU rubbed through the wires?

  7. #7

    Default

    Yes I do have a cold air intake. There was no water on the coils and yes I checked all the fuses…I don't remember about the clamps near the ECU loom. I will ask from the mechanic to check.
    Its very bizarre. I plugged in the AP…There is no error codes nothing…Also did a compression test and air leaks from the exhaust valves

  8. Default

    Ok.. Is he comp testing it with a battery charger and at a full 12.7-14v? If it isn't it can give low and inconsistent readings, which I have seen a fair few mechanics go chasing as low compression. How is there no power to the ignition coils? I haven't looked at these yet but im assuming that it's the usual power, earth and ecu trigger. He needs to identify which of the three it has, and which it doesn't. If a "mechanic" has jumped up and said the car needs an ECU without covering power supplies & earths, I wouldn't be listening to a word he says. Last question... You did a compression test and air leaks from the exhaust valves? A compression test won't tell you where compression is being lost, only a leak down test will tell you that.

  9. #9

    Default

    Grab a hair dryer and some electrical contact cleaner and work your way through the electricals.

    It could be as simple as something going to ground which is causing the ecu to freak out.

    Good luck, and keep us updated.

  10. #10

    Default

    He did the test with the air compressor. Thats how he saw that air is leaking through the exhaust valves. As for the low compressor readings he did it with the battery charger as my battery was dying.
    About the coils he checked them and he found that power doesn't come from ECU. So I think that he checked the earth as well…He will send the ECU to someone to check it this week…
    So frustrating as everything happened all of the sudden. I had booked an appointment to change the VVT actuator on Tuesday as there was noise coming from it and on Monday car stopped working…
    What confuses me is that it started and it was working in idle for a few minutes with no issues but when I put first and pressed on the pedal it stopped...
    I miss my 323!

    Quote Originally Posted by RotarySnail View Post
    Ok.. Is he comp testing it with a battery charger and at a full 12.7-14v? If it isn't it can give low and inconsistent readings, which I have seen a fair few mechanics go chasing as low compression. How is there no power to the ignition coils? I haven't looked at these yet but im assuming that it's the usual power, earth and ecu trigger. He needs to identify which of the three it has, and which it doesn't. If a "mechanic" has jumped up and said the car needs an ECU without covering power supplies & earths, I wouldn't be listening to a word he says. Last question... You did a compression test and air leaks from the exhaust valves? A compression test won't tell you where compression is being lost, only a leak down test will tell you that.

  11. #11

    Default

    Thanks mate. Car is already at the mechanic and he has already removed the valve cover and tomorrow he will remove the head and send the ECU for testing. There is one good thing in this story that he will replace the fuel pump internals as well
    I will keep you guys posted

    Quote Originally Posted by tims View Post
    Grab a hair dryer and some electrical contact cleaner and work your way through the electricals.

    It could be as simple as something going to ground which is causing the ecu to freak out.

    Good luck, and keep us updated.

  12. Default

    Hmm I dunno, this mechanic doesn't seem 100%. Move to Melbourne and I can sus it for ya :P

  13. Default

    For somethign like this i would of probably gone to Mazda as they have the diagrams for wiring etc to backward engineer and test where there is a fault

  14. #14

    Default

    Get him to check the injector ballast, @slixx had a similar issue (start, run rough then die) and it turned out he'd not plugged the ballast back in after doing some mods.

  15. #15

    Default No power to coils

    @jnin Yup it sounds like my problem, but it's easy to check. Not sure on a 6 if you have one

    Under the air intake I have a silver rectangular box with "CAUTION! HOT! HANDS OFF!" on it

    I forgot plug it back in when I was doing my intake clean and symptoms sounds the same and as described by @tims

    Last edited by slixx; 17-11-2013 at 10:29 PM.

    Snapped by Tangcla - FB Page
    Currently RaydTuned
    Lots of love from 2XS Racing & Dan's Garage Detailing

  16. #16

    Default No power to coils

    @jnin Took a wider shot, so you can see where it is one GenII 3 MPS

    Hope it helps


    Mine spent 3 days off the road as it started fine after the intake clean and mods, but as soon as I tried to go, it died

    Then it wouldn't start, hours and days of pulling off the intake and trying to see where we went wrong. Sometimes it would start and run for a while, then it would die

    And in the end, it was 1 plug I forgot to plug back in
    Last edited by slixx; 17-11-2013 at 10:30 PM.

    Snapped by Tangcla - FB Page
    Currently RaydTuned
    Lots of love from 2XS Racing & Dan's Garage Detailing

  17. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jnin View Post
    Thanks mate. Car is already at the mechanic and he has already removed the valve cover and tomorrow he will remove the head and send the ECU for testing. There is one good thing in this story that he will replace the fuel pump internals as well
    I will keep you guys posted
    Where is he sending the ECU for testing..and i wouldn't be removing the head until the actual coil problem was fixed...you can break conrods etc it wil have nothing to do with Coil packs not getting volts...just seems like you will be spending loads on labour charged when it could just be a connector.
    MPS Gen 2 2012 - i think i have Ebola

  18. #18

    Default

    Thanks mate
    I will go there tomorrow morning to the mechanic and check as my intercooler piping is very close. But one question which might be silly. What the ballast has to do with the coils?

    Quote Originally Posted by slixx View Post
    @jnin Took a wider shot, so you can see where it is one GenII 3 MPS

    Hope it helps


    Mine spent 3 days off the road as it started fine after the intake clean and mods, but as soon as I tried to go, it died

    Then it wouldn't start, hours and days of pulling off the intake and trying to see where we went wrong. Sometimes it would start and run for a while, then it would die

    And in the end, it was 1 plug I forgot to plug back in

  19. #19

    Default No power to coils

    Well it doesn't AFAIK
    As I understand it it regulates the fuel

    So when the car would start, it would run but the the regulation of fuel would fail and cause it to stop

    Not too sure if this is your problem, but worth a check, as if it is, is an easy fix

  20. #20

    Default

    Thanks brother.
    As you said it worth a try…I will go there before tomorrow morning before work!

    Quote Originally Posted by slixx View Post
    Well it doesn't AFAIK
    As I understand it it regulates the fuel

    So when the car would start, it would run but the the regulation of fuel would fail and cause it to stop

    Not too sure if this is your problem, but worth a check, as if it is, is an easy fix

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