I should really introduce myself lol.. name is haydar, turkish background, i use my english name hayden, just easier to introduce myself as hayden to others.
i'm from the south eastern suburbs and yeah thats pretty much it.. also thank you to all for the replies and support
iirps @Jmac depends on how long he can do without his car
I can swear in Turkish lmao
Mother in laws favourite; pust pezevenk
While I have never been to HPF no one here recommends them , I would say with all those mods the previous owner had a Cobb AP anyway and unmarried before he sold.
Cobb AP is plug and play, with all those mods you really need a HPFP as we'll if you already don't have 1.
Cobb AP lets you pick which map is suitable to your modifications , plug in and Bam instant 180KWATW.
It's not that we don't like HPF, it's just 1 ex-member/troll/serial pest/wanker that his un-natural love for them have turned them into a bit of a joke
Welcome Hayden,
If I were you, I'd save on the money on getting a dyno check @ $180.00, rather put that money into modifications and/or a Cobb AP which has been mentioned above. All the $180 is going to do is give you a piece of paper that won't do anything for you. Whether your car is 170kW or 250kW it's just a piece of paper. Not to mention the Cobb AP has a VD (Virtual Dyno) built in which you can get a rough idea on what power you're running RIGHT NOW and also AFTER you do some mods or tweak the tune.
You can do power runs and log data an unlimited number of times for free once you own a AP. You'll find subsequent tunes/revisions/dyno's will cost you a fortune as a WHOLE if you go through a tuning place, not to mention you can't alter the tune after anyway.
Also $800.00 is half the price of a new turbo (if that's your thing) you can pay much less with tuners and get the same if not better results.
As @Jmac mentioned do some reading up and visit some websites, but at the end of the day it's really up to you.
-Rogwick
With great power comes great fuel consumption...
M P S - 6 - RR | Cobb AP | CAI | TIP | ATP GTX28R | 3.25" TMIC | SS DP | REM | 3" Zorst | SSP Anchors & Countershift | DBA Rotors | K/Springs | Upper & Lower Bracing | Alpine Type S 12" sub MRP-M500 Amp| Grille | STi Lip | Shark Fin | 6000K HID | Fog Light Tint | Twin DEFI gauges | Custom Decals & Badges | LED lighting | CF Mirrors & Pillars | Black rims Red callipers
As above.
Dyno won't tell you anything. They all read differently, at least running something like the virtual dyno with Cobb AP you will be able to compare more fairly with others, plus have the ability to figure out what any problem is should there be a problem with the logging.
I don't trust companies doing dyno tests like that. Its very easy for them to (for example) make your car pull 130kw, then convince you there is a problem, do very little, make your car produce 180kw and charge you nicely for it
2013 Ford Focus ST - Performance Blue, Cobb AP
Gone 2006 3 MPS Sports - True Red, Koni FSD shocks, in dash OEM look Ebay GPS/DVD, Hypertech, RX8 Rims
I paid a tuning/mechanic $330 for a dyno and to diagnose a problem I was having, all I got was a piece of paper saying my car was 120kW at the wheels (which I already knew it was down on power so said paper was useless to me) then an argument saying they "need to custom tune it" at a cost of about what you got quoted and that the cobb OTS maps are rubbish. Granted the Cobb OTS maps aren't the best but I pointed out mates are flashing and getting 18psi, how come I flash and get 9psi MAX (must be a problem with the hardware of the car not the software)
Long story short, went round in circles and started to get a little heated so I just left it. Turns out I had a boost leak. I found this after myself (a draftsman) and my dad (electrican) diagnosed on the driveway WITHOUT fancy dyno equipment. $330 in the bin and I would have spent another ~$800 tuning and my car would STILL need a new intercooler (boost leak)
Another advantage of the COBB AP, you can view data when driving like knock readings, BATs, boost, AFR and lots more. So YOU have an idea how your OWN car is running.
With great power comes great fuel consumption...
M P S - 6 - RR | Cobb AP | CAI | TIP | ATP GTX28R | 3.25" TMIC | SS DP | REM | 3" Zorst | SSP Anchors & Countershift | DBA Rotors | K/Springs | Upper & Lower Bracing | Alpine Type S 12" sub MRP-M500 Amp| Grille | STi Lip | Shark Fin | 6000K HID | Fog Light Tint | Twin DEFI gauges | Custom Decals & Badges | LED lighting | CF Mirrors & Pillars | Black rims Red callipers
hmm.. seems alot of people are using the cobb AP, im just abit scared on how to use it, i did watch the tutorial but it still unsure if i will be able to manage setting it up etc.
Hey mate happy to meet up with you and shed some light. I also live in the SE suburbs
Got rice bitch?!?
The way the access port works is that it has a set of OTS (off the shelf) maps embedded into the acessport already. These maps are named based the bolt on mods that where on the car when the tune file was saved.
Eg. 98oct SRI, TIP, IC
The above example was for a 98 (American fuel) octane tune with a short ram, turbo inlet pipe and upgraded inter cooler.
Once you've got the access port, you then choose the OTS that is a "best fit" for your car in terms of mods. You want to make sure you are as close to the mark as fuel and air ratios, timing etc are all based off these mods that you supposedly have. I'm sure you can put the pieces together if you flash ur car for a stage two tune but your bone stock.
The real benefit or of the access port is...let's say you want to upgrade your down pipe. The acessport has a range of off the shelf tune that can accommodate for it. Saving you having to go to hpf again and pay them big bucks to change a few values in a few tables. ( I am assuming it's this easy....most likely not...Ray just gives off the impression that it's that easy. ;P)
Digressing upon the latter, if you feel as if the off the shelf tunes aren't as efficient as they should be, you can look at something called e tuning. A process where you seek the services of a tuner to customise those tables I was referring to before.
How does the tuner know what values to change? You, the customer will be required to perform data logging (with the access port). This data log exports into a .csv file that you then forward/email onto and they make the adjustments necessary.
I've been e tuned and whoa, what a difference. The downside is weather permitting logging and the risk involved.
There is quite a lot of more info you should know but this should get you off in the right direction.
Welcome to the forum. I'll definitely see you around mate. I live in the same area.
Ddd
Full write up here by @SarcasticOne
http://www.ozmpsclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12544
Thanks mate, this has been helpful, just got one more question, I've heard a lot of rumors in regards to American tunes are useless, and the reasons for this is because they are in a complete different climat, and using different octane etc, I noticed on the maps it was saying 93 octane I've actually never seen 93 octane in aus.. Anyways apart from all that the device is very convincing to buy and use
Newbie FAQ My Build Thread
From stock, to GT3071, to substantially less modded, many lessons learned!
3" HTP | 100 Cel DP | Autotech HPFP | AP V3 - Self Tuned on E20 | JBR RSB | CPE S2 REM | JBR Shifter Bushings