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Thread: What am i missing? Stage2 OTS

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
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    Thanks Dan! Appreciated.

    Doing further research on MSF, just going to leave this URL here as it's the best i've found for HPFP install
    Might do some logs before swapping, then logs afterwards (on the same map, after run-in) to see difference.

    Looks like an early start on Saturday, with a drive to Mandurah and back afterwards for run-in! haha. If anyone wants to give a hand, more than welcome
    BK MPS3 Sports - Work Meister S1R
    CP-e Catalogue. JDM Goodies.

  2. #22

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    Same HOW TO thread I uses, very important to us the sip-tie so you don't lose the fuel line nut.

    There should not be too much difference between FP besides the fact that the new pump WILL hold pressure in Stage2 at WOT everytime. Would love to help, but I won't be in the country.

    Used this one also: http://krystmsgarage.com/?p=180

    Important things I found:
    - Don't need to remove TMIC
    - Didn't disconnect battery
    - Zip Tie trick.
    - Inverted Torx sockets are a must.
    - Deep socket is a must other wise it won't fit over the internals.
    - Minimal fuel is left in the lines, rags and small ice-cream container will be overkill.
    - Don't submerge the rubber O-ring in the fuel when cleaning, could dry the rubber out and breaking/fail prematurely. Just my 0.2c...

    - Don't force pump back in. Slowly tighten each torx bolt evenly to smoothly pull it into place.
    - Check for oil leaks. If the is an oil leak it will be the O-Ring.
    Last edited by DAN MPS 3; 03-09-2013 at 01:07 AM.
    SG9 XT: VF34 P20, Tomei headers, STI intercooler HSD coilovers, Brembos and much more...

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
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    Champion, thanks for your breakdown - @DAN MPS 3 !
    I agree on your point about not soaking in fuel, i think lubricating with some engine oil all that's needed.

    Will keep this thread posted on how i go

    Edit: Reading through that post linked above, is this correct for a GenWON?
    Before starting your car. Hold the GAS TO THE FLOOR and attempt to start this will prevent the engine from starting but will re-pressurize the lines.
    Last edited by bodyboardingbum; 03-09-2013 at 01:37 AM.
    BK MPS3 Sports - Work Meister S1R
    CP-e Catalogue. JDM Goodies.

  4. #24

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    No worries You can still use fuel to clean the internals, just make sure the O-ring is not submerged.

    Quote Originally Posted by bodyboardingbum View Post
    Reading through that post linked above, is this correct for a GenWON?
    Not sure with the throttle to the floor thing? Most likely not, but as I said minimal fuel comes out of the pipes. And if there is no fuel for a few seconds it just won't start. Can't see there being any risk to that? it will only be idling for starters.
    Last edited by DAN MPS 3; 03-09-2013 at 01:41 AM.
    SG9 XT: VF34 P20, Tomei headers, STI intercooler HSD coilovers, Brembos and much more...

  5. #25

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    I used a cotton bud on a stick thingo and dipped that in fuel to clean the insides of the pump etc. Used 4 of them (double sided) before I got it clean
    Then soaked everything in oil for prob nearly 10 minutes before I put it back together. (new internals, spring, and the threaded piece the new internals go into)

  6. #26
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    Apr 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by GibbA View Post
    I used a cotton bud on a stick thingo and dipped that in fuel to clean the insides of the pump etc. Used 4 of them (double sided) before I got it clean

    Then soaked everything in oil for prob nearly 10 minutes before I put it back together. (new internals, spring, and the threaded piece the new internals go into)
    Thanks @GibbA - appreciate your input
    Is it necessary to soak entire assembly in oil? Or just lubricate the seals/o-rings?
    BK MPS3 Sports - Work Meister S1R
    CP-e Catalogue. JDM Goodies.

  7. #27

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    No I wouldn't say it's entirely necessary (though I have heard people suggest to just soak it all) but I preferred to put it all in oil as you wouldn't get dust on it when you're leaving it..
    In regards to foot flat to the floor, no need to.
    I just switched onto accessories, then off, wait a few seconds then on again. Did this 3 times, and then on the 4th it started fine.

  8. #28
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    I certainly wouldn't try starting a fuel injected car with any throttle input. Just leaving the ignition in the "on" position fow a few seconds should be enough to prime the system.

    I saw my old boss try and start a VN commodore while pumping the accelerator as if it was an old carby motor.
    She went boom and blew the trottle body apart, set fire to the air box, and burnt the engine bay and some of the wireing harness.
    All that on a customers car and about 10 seconds after me warning him not to do it and him yelling at me because "i know what i'm doing"
    2013 Ford Focus ST - Performance Blue, Cobb AP

    Gone 2006 3 MPS Sports - True Red, Koni FSD shocks, in dash OEM look Ebay GPS/DVD, Hypertech, RX8 Rims

  9. #29

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    One less commonwhore on the road... Job well done

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by DAN MPS 3 View Post
    One less commonwhore on the road... Job well done

    Unfortunately we had to fix it.
    2013 Ford Focus ST - Performance Blue, Cobb AP

    Gone 2006 3 MPS Sports - True Red, Koni FSD shocks, in dash OEM look Ebay GPS/DVD, Hypertech, RX8 Rims

  11. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bd581 View Post
    I certainly wouldn't try starting a fuel injected car with any throttle input. Just leaving the ignition in the "on" position fow a few seconds should be enough to prime the system.

    I saw my old boss try and start a VN commodore while pumping the accelerator as if it was an old carby motor.
    She went boom and blew the trottle body apart, set fire to the air box, and burnt the engine bay and some of the wireing harness.
    All that on a customers car and about 10 seconds after me warning him not to do it and him yelling at me because "i know what i'm doing"
    I had my foot on the accelerator when trying to start the car once and it wouldn't turn over, must be a safety feature on our cars.
    2008 MPS3 Sports Pack - Metro Grey

    [Cobb SF Intake]-[CP-E TIP]-[CP-E FMIC]-[CP-E 3" Cat Back Exhaust]-[Hypertech Max Energy Sport Tuner]-[Eonon GM5151 Head Unit]-[18x8 +35 wheels]-[Kumho KU39 225/40/18]

  12. #32
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    Feb 2012
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    Wollongong
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    Quote Originally Posted by Furrymeatball View Post
    I had my foot on the accelerator when trying to start the car once and it wouldn't turn over, must be a safety feature on our cars.
    Yeah injectors are shut off when you do that. You can do it when doin a compression test.

    Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2

  13. #33
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
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    South Perth, Western Australia
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    So, I haven't got any engine oil lying around to lubricate before reassembling... I don't need much at all, just a small smear for the seals! Not soaking the assembly.

    Should I go buy some? (Total waste for such a small amount), or can I steal some off the dipstick? Haha. Car hasn't done more than ~2k since last oil change anyways, so I imagine it'll be fairly clean...

    (Might be the dumbest idea ever?)

  14. #34
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
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    South Perth, Western Australia
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    Finally found time (and weather) to try the HPFP internal install today - and my 18mm socket isn't deep enough!
    Bunnings/Supercheap/Repco had none that were appropriate either...

    What did everyone use? If any Perth folks have one i can borrow, would be greatly appreciated!

  15. #35
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    Apr 2012
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    All sorted, mate had a longer deep socket i could use. Have changed the internals, and will reinstall tomorrow!
    Then, time to run-in for ~100-150kms.

    Should i add stage-2 map before, or after the ~100kms? It'll really only be a different on WOT, where i want to keep fuel pressure above ~11 000kpa?

  16. #36

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    The socket issue was the same I had, but luckily only live 5 minutes away from AUTO1.

    Install OTS2 map now... you should not go WOT until they are run in (100-150KM) and in that time it should re-learn all the fuel trims for that map.

  17. #37
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    Apr 2012
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    All back together and running, have flicked across to the Stage2 CP-e Map and filled up with some fresh juice
    Will keep it below ~3000rpm during run in period.

    What should i be monitoring, apart from fuel pressure? (annoyingly, in kPa thanks to AP V3)

  18. #38

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    Can you alter the units in the menu? You don't need to keep it under 3000RPM, just keep it off boost. You should avoid constant/prolonged periods at a set RPM.

    I would monitor FP and when you start getting more aggressive LOG the AFR and FP and make sure it is all healthy.

  19. #39

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    I didn't know the HPFP needed to be run in, I gave mine a flogging straight away

  20. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by DAN MPS 3 View Post
    Can you alter the units in the menu? You don't need to keep it under 3000RPM, just keep it off boost. You should avoid constant/prolonged periods at a set RPM.

    I would monitor FP and when you start getting more aggressive LOG the AFR and FP and make sure it is all healthy.
    Can't change units in the menu, without changing everything - so speed, temps, etc all turn imperial too
    Very frustrating!

    Will start to log after ive done a few more kms at low RPM/off boost - thanks for the input
    Did ~25kms this arvo dropping off the sockets i borrowed, so it won't take too long by which time hopefully the rain has cleared!
    BK MPS3 Sports - Work Meister S1R
    CP-e Catalogue. JDM Goodies.

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