Should be a sticky... So many people ask about upgrading.
Sent from Samsung Note 2 LTE
Should be a sticky... So many people ask about upgrading.
Sent from Samsung Note 2 LTE
You have asked and I have made it so.
Sent from my S4 while I'm tappin dat' glass.
Last edited by SarcasticOne; 29-07-2013 at 10:23 AM.
Newbie FAQ My Build Thread
From stock, to GT3071, to substantially less modded, many lessons learned!
3" HTP | 100 Cel DP | Autotech HPFP | AP V3 - Self Tuned on E20 | JBR RSB | CPE S2 REM | JBR Shifter Bushings
$400 or new block.. Easy choice really.
Sent from my S4 while I'm tappin dat' glass.
was making this up for another thread, seemed more appropriate to put it here and just link it:
Here's a "quality" *cough cough* MS Paint picture over view of our fuel system
From the fuel tank, fuel gets pumped via an "in tank fuel pump" (ITFP) at ~50-60psi through the red "line"... that's enough pressure for your port injectors, and it's really all about how much fuel the can flow, rather than the pressure.
The HPFP then takes this fuel, and pressurizes it up to 1600+ psi... this is where your upgraded HPFP occurs, the standard piston contained within the HPFP is not always capable of pressurising the increased amount of fuel flowing through it, and will drop pressure... this is BAD (read the rest of thread for more information)
The 1600psi of fuel is then pumped through the yellow "line" to your injectors, where it's squirted into the chamber (can see my really crappy piston in a cylinder there)
The little green star is where your RON (octane) number comes into effect, the higher this number, the less likely your car is to knocking (or pinking as it is supposed to be know). This occurs when the fuel ignites before it's supposed to, and if it's bad enough, you can bend a rod, or have a piston appear outside your block.
a few things of note:
- We will NEVER get upgraded stock replacement Direct Injection injectors... this is for 2 reasons:
- We use weird mistubishi injectors
- 90% of the DI world has moved onto 2000+ psi, we cant support that
- The ITFP is perfectly capable of supplying enough fuel for our stock injectors to max our their flow, so no need to worry about upgrading that
- We can supply enough fuel through stock system to support 300kw at the wheels (assuming meth or e85 mixture, else you hit a point where the engine knocks too much)
any/all comments/suggestions for ways to add to this are welcome
EDIT 31/05/2014: since i wrote this, seems corksport and other companies are actively trying to provide us with higher flowing injectors, will see what comes of it.
Last edited by SarcasticOne; 31-05-2014 at 09:40 AM.
Newbie FAQ My Build Thread
From stock, to GT3071, to substantially less modded, many lessons learned!
3" HTP | 100 Cel DP | Autotech HPFP | AP V3 - Self Tuned on E20 | JBR RSB | CPE S2 REM | JBR Shifter Bushings
So basically at my 200 atwkw goal I'll have no fuel pump issues because the pressure my stock fuel pump can provide is plenty?
From what I gathered from your post the only concern is if the engine is consuming more fuel then the pump can provide causing the air/fuel mixture to lean out and make thing go kapow which it won't do until around the 300KW mark?
Additionally perhaps I missed it but where is explanation of the HPFP acronym? H P Fuel Pump?
Current mods:
CorkSport SRI, TIP & Airbox
Cobb Access Port
High pressure fuel pump.
Makes sense right? As its the point where its bumped from 60psi to the 1600 mark.
There is an entire stickied acronymn thread with basically all terms commonly used
I've also heard the HPFP will cause CEL lights, is that correct?
Oh Jesus, I think my car was pinking the other day, @SarcasticOne, tell me what to do...
Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk 2
Lol@ pinking! You wish Sam!
So will a SRI and Cobb AP require a HPFP mod?
SG9 XT: VF34 P20, Tomei headers, STI intercooler HSD coilovers, Brembos and much more...
Newbie FAQ My Build Thread
From stock, to GT3071, to substantially less modded, many lessons learned!
3" HTP | 100 Cel DP | Autotech HPFP | AP V3 - Self Tuned on E20 | JBR RSB | CPE S2 REM | JBR Shifter Bushings
Have you read the recommended hardware for each Stage on the Cobb Website?
They tell you there that new internals aren't required. Which would be fine if that's where you're leaving the car. But most go further, so the new internals become good insurance against "hole in block" syndrome.