User Tag List

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 21 to 25 of 25

Thread: Wheel Protection

  1. #21

    Default

    Dropped them off for coating with Obsession Car Detailing in Canberra (great guys so far) last night.

    Quote Originally Posted by Caffeine Fiend View Post
    it won't help with chips. No coating will as they're not designed to protect against strike damage. Only films like paint protection film stand a chance, and even then I've seen stones go through them before.

    It will help with chemical resistance thereby making them easier to clean.
    Thanks Caffeine Fiend. Guess I'll just be careful. Do you think it is worth looking at a film over the opticoat (my parents live on a farm with dirt roads, so they will see rocks and gravel on weekends)? If so, is there something you would suggest that I can apply myself?



    Sent from my evil apple using Tapatalk
    Fast: RayD Tune|COBB AP|JBR|Stratified|CP-e|Xforce|Autotech|Denso|Corksport
    Turn: Bilstein|Eibach|Whiteline|JBR|Hankook RS3
    Stop: Wilwood 4pots|Custom lines|DBA T3|Remsa|TRW 600
    Rice: JL|Alpine|Focal|MiniDSP|Rota g-force|2XS|Cree|Celestial Blue FTW!

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Surrey Hills, Victoria
    Age
    49
    Posts
    5,866

    Default

    Paint protection film is not something worth trying if you don't know what you're doing. It's too easy to get air bubbles caught under the surface and/or have the film end up looking crappy because it's been overworked on the panel. If you're going to do it I strongly recommend you let a pro do it for you.

    Also, it's best to let the Opticoat cure for a min of 4 weeks before applying any film over the top. There is the minor possibility of the film lifting over time if the Opticoat underneath hasn't cured fully before the film has been applied

    Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk
    Caff Mobile Mk1 - 2010 Aluminum Gen II | 2XS SRI | H&R Lowered Springs | cpe 75 Duro Engine Mount | Whiteline Rear Swaybar | Moog "Problem Solver" Rear Endlinks | 3M Carbon Black Tint | Lakin Custom Plates | Opti-Coat Paint Protection | Paint Correction by Me - SOLD

    Caff Mobile Mk2 - 2008 BMW Z4M Coupe - Sapphire Black Metallic | Stock....for now

  3. #23

    Default

    Would it be better to do wheels the other way around, film and then Opticoat?

  4. #24
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Bathurst
    Age
    42
    Posts
    1,930

    Default

    Few years back when i was working as a panel beater we experimented with a thing called "ceramiclear"
    basically a ceramic like clear.
    The theory was the paint would be much more chip resistant.
    Absolutely no idea how successful it was in the long term though.

    The only negatives we knew could happen is the finish was not as good as normal clear and when it did chip, it would be a massive chip and very difficult to fix

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Surrey Hills, Victoria
    Age
    49
    Posts
    5,866

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cletusb View Post
    Would it be better to do wheels the other way around, film and then Opticoat?
    I haven't heard of anyone putting this film onto wheels. It's primarily used for paintwork. I'm not sure it would go too well on wheels a) difficulty in applying because of the sharp edges and complex curves, and b) heat from brakes and durability of the film therein.



    Quote Originally Posted by bd581 View Post
    Few years back when i was working as a panel beater we experimented with a thing called "ceramiclear"
    basically a ceramic like clear.
    The theory was the paint would be much more chip resistant.
    Absolutely no idea how successful it was in the long term though.

    The only negatives we knew could happen is the finish was not as good as normal clear and when it did chip, it would be a massive chip and very difficult to fix

    Ceramiclear has been used for a number of years by a few Euros, most notably Mercedes. The clear contains ceramic particles which, when sprayed and whilst curing, would migrate to the top four or five microns of the clear and form a harder clear coat layer in those four/five microns. It's still used to a degree in OEM, and it's also now offered by a number of third party paint companies who supply panel beaters. The problem though is the general misunderstanding of it in the industry, most notably uneducated detailers who think the ceramic particles go all the way through the clear layer instead of the reality of them just being in the top few microns. They'll hit the paint with an ultra-aggressive pad and polish combo and more often than not end up buzzing straight through the ceramic section of the clear, leaving behind the standard clear coat that was underneath. Thereby pretty much negating any advantage the ceramic may have given the paint.
    Caff Mobile Mk1 - 2010 Aluminum Gen II | 2XS SRI | H&R Lowered Springs | cpe 75 Duro Engine Mount | Whiteline Rear Swaybar | Moog "Problem Solver" Rear Endlinks | 3M Carbon Black Tint | Lakin Custom Plates | Opti-Coat Paint Protection | Paint Correction by Me - SOLD

    Caff Mobile Mk2 - 2008 BMW Z4M Coupe - Sapphire Black Metallic | Stock....for now

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •