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Thread: Changing your turbo FAQ

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Default Changing your turbo FAQ

    Been getting a few different requests etc for information on non-stock turbo's, so figured i would together a single thread with as much information as i have found/seen for people to access all in one place

    OK, a few assumptions that I'm going to make in this thread...
    1. Stock location (yes, i know top mounted turbo is sexy, but it's also complicated)
    2. Turbos are Internally Waste Gated (might do something later about External Waste Gates)
    3. They're direct "bolt-on" so will attach to stock exhaust manifold and downpipe (or any that connect to stock turbo)
    4. You understand you'll probably have to upgrade your MAF and MAP sensor
    5. Getting fuel from standard injectors, so I'm not discussing meth injection, i don't know enough about it
    6. Things that WON'T be mentioned in the rest of this thread: V-Band, T3, T4, Twin Scroll, T25, Flanges, Screamer pipe (illegal in AUS anyways, 4 figure fines for having one of these)
    7. You'll need 1 of 2 things to control boost, either an aftermarket boost controller (Manual or 3-port Electronic) or a Stratified Boost dial to use with your stock EBC (2-port) link for set ups


    So, now on to your options, of which there is 2 sorts


    1. Refurbished stock units
    2. Bolt on kits


    REFURBISHED STOCK TURBO
    A refurbished stock unit is where people take the stock turbo, play around with it, improve it and send it back to you!
    Examples: All BNR units, the CPE elevate turbo, PG Reworked K04 etc....
    This means it's designed to work with your stock sized (2.5 inch) inlet pipe, if it connects to a stock turbo, it'll connect to one of these! Nice and easy hey?
    For the most part you can just re-use the stock water/oil/coolant lines, but you may as well invest in some braided lines with A/N fittings whilst you've got the turbo out (~$400) these will outlast your car
    When installing these, it's possible to leave the exhaust manifold attached to your engine!

    "Bolt On Kits"
    ATP is currently the only company that makes a direct bolt on turbo for us.
    They come in 2 flavours GT and GTX (if you can get a GTX version, strongly suggest it...)
    in order from quickest spool/lowest power to slowest spool/highest power:


    • 2867 (GTX only)
    • 2871 (GT only)
    • 3071
    • 3076
    • 35R


    (Technically the GTX2867 should produce more power than a GT2871, but havent seen any evidence of this yet...)
    The 3071, 3076 and 35R will all flow enough air that you'll be limited to the amount of power you can make simply by the stock fuel system (about 300-320kw atw). Unfortunately higher flowing injectors (like you see on XR6 Turbos, WRX, Evo's etc) are not available for our platform, or any other Direct Injection system.

    The 30's and 35R's require a 4 inch inlet, there is an abundance of options out there now (JBR/HTP/CPE/ATP)
    The GT28 also has a 4" inlet, whilst the GTX28 has a 3"

    These turbos come with the option for different waste gate pressures... 7psi, 14psi and 21psi, unless you have a built block and plan on running heaps of boost, i suggest going with the 14psi, as a general rule, shouldn't ever run more than 2x spring pressure

    these require non-standard oil/coolant lines, which are often supplied in the kits, but when @MPS2NV and @LittleredMPS installed mine, they werent overly impressed with the quality, so, like the turbo's above, might be worth the investment in proper braided A/N lines

    As a general rule, i would suggest either a BNR S3 or GT/GTX3071 for 90% of people on this forum as the upgrade of choice.

    If any other questions, feel free to ask, and will do best to answer!

    couple of extra things i've been asked in recent times:
    1. Larger than stock intakes: These are fine as long as you have a tune for them... if you're getting a shop to tune, drive it there with the stock intake, and spend ~30 minutes swapping it out to the bigger one
    2. Gaskets: these are a something easily forgotten... there is 3 you'll need to get: engine -> manifold; manifold -> turbo; turbo -> DP
    3. Exhaust manifold... makes sense to change it when swapping turbos, cause unless you're going a BNR, you're going to have to pull it anyways
    4. double and triple check you have the right connector for your turbo!
    Last edited by SarcasticOne; 16-06-2013 at 09:51 AM.
    Newbie FAQ My Build Thread
    From stock, to GT3071, to substantially less modded, many lessons learned!
    3" HTP | 100 Cel DP | Autotech HPFP | AP V3 - Self Tuned on E20 | JBR RSB | CPE S2 REM | JBR Shifter Bushings

  2. #2
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    Default

    Sticky'd!

    Sent from Samsung Note 2 LTE

  3. #3
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    Default

    What a great right up!

  4. #4
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    Jul 2011
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    Perth
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    Default

    GT28 is 4 inch, GTX28 is 3 inch intake

    Someone will hopefully be able to indicate what kind of power the GTX28 can provide for a tame tune...

  5. Default

    Keen to understand rough power estimates on a bnr s3 and how it compares to gt and gtx turbos... Seems like less mucking around with a s3. And I imagine it is a less expensive setup?

  6. #6
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    Default

    for the most part,

    a BNR S3 is (effectively) a 2871 with journal bearings rather than ball bearings... and maxed out will get you to ~300kw (400whp) atw
    a GT3071 can get ~330-340kw (~460hp)
    a GTX3071 and GT3076 can get you to ~380kw (~500hp)
    i (personally) dont see much point in the GTX3076, only 5% better flow over a normal GT3076, the 3071 is about 10-15%
    a GT35 or a GTX35, well... seen 600hp at all 4 wheels in a 6... probably get more

    if you want to push more than 260-270kw atw, i would suggest a GT/GTX30 turbo, just means you don't have to push the turbo and generate excess heat

    there is more to it than that... the bigger the turbo, the less boost you need for same power...
    Last edited by SarcasticOne; 07-04-2013 at 08:52 AM.
    Newbie FAQ My Build Thread
    From stock, to GT3071, to substantially less modded, many lessons learned!
    3" HTP | 100 Cel DP | Autotech HPFP | AP V3 - Self Tuned on E20 | JBR RSB | CPE S2 REM | JBR Shifter Bushings

  7. #7

    Default

    I am watching this thread closely for my future endeavours!

    All this Big-Turbo talk is making me want to spend money of the MPS... but I will finish my suspension/brake set-up first. No point having all that power if it won't put it down or stop at the first corner.

  8. #8
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    Default

    make sure rest of car is up to it... specifically the brakes/suspension/tires
    else you end up paying for body repairs

  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SarcasticOne View Post
    make sure rest of car is up to it... specifically the brakes/suspension/tires
    else you end up paying for body repairs
    That is the truth! Although with my power goal being around 200-210KW a BT would be overkill
    SG9 XT: VF34 P20, Tomei headers, STI intercooler HSD coilovers, Brembos and much more...

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by SarcasticOne View Post
    there is more to it than that... the bigger the turbo, the less boost you need for same power...
    The bigger the turbo the more lag you get

    Got rice bitch?!?

  11. #11

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    Nice rite up sam, I can add sections on EWG and meth if need be?

  12. #12
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    Feel free
    I just didn't feel like opening up mspaint to make diagrams explaining the difference

    Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

  13. #13
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    Default

    Off memory the GT28 is 3' intake. The GTX2867 is 4'

  14. #14
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    From EDGE.
    ATP Turbo GTX28R Bolt-On Turbo Kit MS6

    Quote Originally Posted by RedDjinn View Post
    Off memory the GT28 is 3' intake. The GTX2867 is 4'
    1993 KL-ZE 626 - Written off
    2005 MPS6 - Me Boosta, GTX2867 Freektuned

  15. #15
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    what about engine internals like forged pistons and such? how much power can the stock internals take?

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baz View Post
    what about engine internals like forged pistons and such? how much power can the stock internals take?
    on a bad tune, a few minutes
    good tune, few people running 400+whp/wtq (550NM/300kw) for over a year... but, it ends up being a slippery slope...
    Newbie FAQ My Build Thread
    From stock, to GT3071, to substantially less modded, many lessons learned!
    3" HTP | 100 Cel DP | Autotech HPFP | AP V3 - Self Tuned on E20 | JBR RSB | CPE S2 REM | JBR Shifter Bushings

  17. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JapCrap View Post
    The bigger the turbo the more lag you get
    Is that due to being on a better part of the efficiency island (for a larger turbo that is). If that's the case is that because more efficient means less heat, means cooler BATs, which means more power?
    The other noob part of me says x psi is x psi!!

  18. #18

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    Not that I'm saying anything negative about the Cobb AP but when it comes to that point where one decides to go high end power is the Cobb AP enough to handle that demand? Or is a tune such as ECUtek required?

    Is it a case of either one is fine as long as the tuner knows his way around the product and vehicle?

  19. #19

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Chuckie Cheese View Post
    Not that I'm saying anything negative about the Cobb AP but when it comes to that point where one decides to go high end power is the Cobb AP enough to handle that demand? Or is a tune such as ECUtek required?

    Is it a case of either one is fine as long as the tuner knows his way around the product and vehicle?
    COBB AP is perfectly suited. Plenty of US guys making big power on COBB AP. You just need a tuner to tweek the maps.

    RPW tunes ECUTEK
    Evoulution R (apparently) could tune COBB, he has the software but not sure if he has tuned a MPS. They are into EVO, WRX, GTR...
    SG9 XT: VF34 P20, Tomei headers, STI intercooler HSD coilovers, Brembos and much more...

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by allo80 View Post
    Is that due to being on a better part of the efficiency island (for a larger turbo that is). If that's the case is that because more efficient means less heat, means cooler BATs, which means more power?
    The other noob part of me says x psi is x psi!!
    18psi on my turbo at redline is very different in terms of airflow/BATs compared to stock turbo
    Quote Originally Posted by Chuckie Cheese View Post
    Not that I'm saying anything negative about the Cobb AP but when it comes to that point where one decides to go high end power is the Cobb AP enough to handle that demand? Or is a tune such as ECUtek required?

    Is it a case of either one is fine as long as the tuner knows his way around the product and vehicle?
    AP is used for all tuning in america... plenty of high powered cars running it... (as in 500+whp/380kw+)
    Newbie FAQ My Build Thread
    From stock, to GT3071, to substantially less modded, many lessons learned!
    3" HTP | 100 Cel DP | Autotech HPFP | AP V3 - Self Tuned on E20 | JBR RSB | CPE S2 REM | JBR Shifter Bushings

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