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Thread: Question - Wheel upgrade or Turbo Ugrade?

  1. #21
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    Sure...but no. Ex-BK owner here with everything you have mentioned fitted to the car...still no

    Based on past experience, get it to 200kw atw, then sort all of the above out as you have mentioned, and leave it alone

    There are much better ways to go quicker.

  2. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by TD View Post
    Sure...but no. Ex-BK owner here with everything you have mentioned fitted to the car...still no

    Based on past experience, get it to 200kw atw, then sort all of the above out as you have mentioned, and leave it alone

    There are much better ways to go quicker.
    Fair enough, I have decided to not make this car a power house like my WRX and focus on handling. Track days are more fun then heavy clutches and straight lines
    200KW would still be potent in a MPS especially with the torque!
    SG9 XT: VF34 P20, Tomei headers, STI intercooler HSD coilovers, Brembos and much more...

  3. #23
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    200kw atw is all you need...seriously. The chassis literally can't handle more. Go drive a Golf GTI to see the difference (disclaimer, I have a GTI), it's ridiculous.

    Brother has a 220k atw Focus XR5, same deal as the MPS (same chassis), is very tough to keep it on the road let alone actually go quickly.

    Kev, make the thing stop and steer

  4. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by TD View Post
    200kw atw is all you need...seriously. The chassis literally can't handle more. Go drive a Golf GTI to see the difference (disclaimer, I have a GTI), it's ridiculous.

    Brother has a 220k atw Focus XR5, same deal as the MPS (same chassis), is very tough to keep it on the road let alone actually go quickly.

    Kev, make the thing stop and steer
    I have driven a GTI (not in anger) and did like the chassis. Nice car and the DSG is great, but VW wouldn't negotiate price like Mazda.

    220KW XR5! Sounds Dangerous, I know the MPS is the king of torque-steer but I drove an XR5 (mild tune) and loved the engine and power delivery, but hated the lack of steering feedback which only made the torque-steer more of a fcuking danger!
    SG9 XT: VF34 P20, Tomei headers, STI intercooler HSD coilovers, Brembos and much more...

  5. #25
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    May 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by DAN MPS 3 View Post
    I had Bridgestone Potenza's on my WRX and loved them



    Are the factory Dunlops that shit? I found them to be pretty grippy but they fall off pretty quick when you cook them (typical road tyre)
    Yea I cooked them in 1 session. The bridgestones that the WRX comes with are excellent tyres by comparison.

  6. #26
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    Can I assume OP already has bolt ons and a tune?

    If I had a stock car and purely wanted to race it at the track and only had $2000 to spend then that money will be spent thusly:

    4 Yokohama AD08's - $1100
    Rear Swaybar - $250
    DBA4000 Slotted Front Rotors - $400
    QFM A1RM Brake Pads and some racing brake fluid - ~$200

    Those mods meet your budget and will give you the biggest gains per dollar spent at the track. Notice how the biggest gains are all in the consumables?

    The main issue here is, we don't have pure race cars. We drive them on the street, so for that reason I would want to at a MINIMUM get a stage 1 AP map because that makes it so much more fun to drive. In that case the tyres and brakes can wait until they need to be replaced and we can spend some money on power mods in the meantine

    Suspension - I spent BIG on my suspension setup and to be honest, the gains were fairly minimal in terms of raw time. My PB really didnt change much when I put the coilovers in, what improved was my lap times consistency.
    Outright power mods depend a lot on the track you're racing at. Power matters at Eastern Creek, but at Wakefield Park it doesn't mean much at all.

  7. #27
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    If your goal is to be quicker on the track, $2k would probably be better spent on advanced driving lessons with a pro. I bet you'll get better lap times with a few good tips from a pro than any $2k mod will get

  8. #28
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    That's an expensive pro! Go to a couple of track days and get an instructor to sit in with you, they're free at Circuit Club days.

    Nothing is a substitute for practice tho.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reedy View Post
    Can I assume OP already has bolt ons and a tune?

    If I had a stock car and purely wanted to race it at the track and only had $2000 to spend then that money will be spent thusly:

    4 Yokohama AD08's - $1100
    Rear Swaybar - $250
    DBA4000 Slotted Front Rotors - $400
    QFM A1RM Brake Pads and some racing brake fluid - ~$200

    Those mods meet your budget and will give you the biggest gains per dollar spent at the track. Notice how the biggest gains are all in the consumables?

    The main issue here is, we don't have pure race cars. We drive them on the street, so for that reason I would want to at a MINIMUM get a stage 1 AP map because that makes it so much more fun to drive. In that case the tyres and brakes can wait until they need to be replaced and we can spend some money on power mods in the meantine

    Suspension - I spent BIG on my suspension setup and to be honest, the gains were fairly minimal in terms of raw time. My PB really didnt change much when I put the coilovers in, what improved was my lap times consistency.
    Outright power mods depend a lot on the track you're racing at. Power matters at Eastern Creek, but at Wakefield Park it doesn't mean much at all.
    Yes I have everything I want except BT, roll cage and some extra bracing. I have a tune for the track with my ezy flash.

    Times are consistent and your right practice and starting to do more so keen to try new things. I'm not going to pay someone. Can always ask for advice. Going from springs and stock struts to coilovers but nothing as good as yours made a lot of difference for me in terms car more planted less weight transfer on accelerating and brake and definitely cornering.

    What's a cage worth these days? and yes it's my daily but could live with it in permanently.
    2XS+ChipTorque=DeathStar

  10. #30
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    You only need a roll cage if you're going to be racing wheel to wheel

  11. #31
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    Can only help! haha. I will into more bracing make it more rigid. Cheers for input guys.

  12. #32

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    Too often people increase horsepower but dont think abot driveline and handling. Ive got an MPS6 and my driveline is quite solid for the mods i have. but i still invested in a Spec clutch and CPe diff mount.

    I would suggest getting some good wheels and tyres, next set i'm getting some GT radial UHT tyres. they are uni directional and they grip like shit to a blanket. I'm also going to get some HSD coilovers. the stock suspension doesnt have the side-to-side characterists i like.

    my 2cents

    -Slix
    MPS6 "The Maz"

    Driveline:
    Spec stage 3 clutch, Fidanza Flywheel, CPe Diff mount


    Engine:
    CXracing front mount, Greddy RZ BOV, Cobb SRI & TIP, Cobb AP Stage 2, TZR HPFP upgrade, Hurricane Split dump, Full 3" exhaust 1 cat delete.

  13. #33
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    I've made up my mind and decided and its BT time! In about a month I will be getting a ATP GTX3071. Wooohooo

  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by KFuNk View Post
    I've made up my mind and decided and its BT time! In about a month I will be getting a ATP GTX3071. Wooohooo
    Awesome mate, can't wait to watch how this goes!
    2XS RACING $ CORKSPORT $ MAGNAFLOW $ ​UNSURE MOTORSPORTS $ COBB $ INJEN $ FULCRUM $ FEDERAL TYRES $ VISUAL GARAGE $ ADVANCED PERFORMANCE CENTRE $ B C M $ NGK $ STRATIFIED $ AUTOTECH $ DBA $ REMSA $ DGR $ MORIMOTO $ JBR $ FUSION

  15. #35
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    Who's tuning you?

  16. #36
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    I will be getting ChipTorque to do it.

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