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Thread: Engine Nosie

  1. Default

    @bullet dust what are diamond washers?

  2. #22

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    Would be a good idea to replace idler/tensioner pulleys with proper metal ones while your down there, the bearings often fail and can cause rattling and squealing/metal grinding noises

    Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
    Last edited by dazza; 08-03-2013 at 12:25 PM.

  3. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dazza View Post
    Would be a good idea to replace idler/tensioner pulleys with proper metal ones while your down there, the bearings often fail and can cause rattling and squealing/metal grinding noises

    Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
    i am changing all these pullys

  4. Default

    dar_vedar,

    The Mazda L series engines don't run keys on the crank and cam gears, they use an interference fit and diamond coated washers to form a grip between the crank gear and crankshaft as well as the camshafts and cam gear's - It is terribly important both the crank and cam gears are torqued correctly and the diamond washers are replaced when doing any work in the timing area of the engine, failure to do so could cause the gears to slip causing major damage to the non free running engine. It is also terribly important that the engine is timed correctly using the correct SST's as there is no timing marks on the crank or cam gears, SST's are used to time the engine correctly.

    The bolts locating the cam and crank gears are stretch type bolts and technically should be replaced every time torque is removed from the bolts, failure to do so could result in failure of the bolt and damage to the engine - If it was my engine, I'd be replacing them before I replace the gears themselves.

    Sorry to come across as a zelot, it's just that I have seen major failure in L series engines as a result of a lack of knowledge and experience when it comes to working on these motors and I'd hate for you to damage yer pride and joy as a result of such issues.

    There's a reason why it's so expensive to perform any work in the timing area of these engines....Sadly....
    Last edited by bullet dust; 08-03-2013 at 05:10 PM.

  5. #25

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    "bullett dust" i did the first service at 4500kms just because im fussy(using full syn elf 5w40 oil and genuine mazda filter), that oil is still currently in the car with 12,800kms(due too be changed at 14500kms) (10,000km interval) with good oil im not sold on changing at 5,000kms turbo or not. Plus i dont drive this car hard often. between when i changed it at 4500 and the present kms ive had to do a minor top up of 300ml at most. would this be a cause of concern? at first i was a little alarmed then thought mayby being still new and turboed this was the cause? whats your thoughts?

    Thanks in advance mitch

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Sydney
    Age
    33
    Posts
    90

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    Speaking of engine noises, I have the normal 2 sec warming up noise but when I turn the motor off I get a knocking/rattling noise. Is this something to be concerned about? I've been told its normal as they are generally a loud, noise making engine...but I'm still abit worried! Any advice would be appreciated...

  7. Default

    its normal mine does that rattle as well, its quite normal for these engines to make noise but loud tappping or squeaking then take it to a mechanic asap. I recently changed engine oil at 75k to nulon 10w30 seems to like it quieter than usual

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