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Thread: ATP bolt on Garrett turbos

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
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    Default ATP bolt on Garrett turbos

    hey guys, i recently found these (available with different turbos, this is just an example one):
    ATP Turbo GTX3076R Bolt-OnTurbo Kit MS6

    Ihaven't been able to find anything on the forum about them, or what the results are like and was hoping to get some opinions as my turbo is on the way out and i'll be looking at upgrading later this year, so, what do you guys think about them? as much as they seem like a good idea, is the time saving of not having to get custom manifolds/downpipes made and maybe saving a few extra bucks for the fabrication worth it or are you better off getting custom fabrications done to the manifolds/downpipe to suit the turbo instead?

    just as a side question, is a bigger turbo inlet pipe necessary when upgrading to a bigger turbo, or would just a bigger silicone reducer to suit be enough? i currently have a corksport turbo inlet pipe installed that came with my corksport FMIC kit, if that helps answer questions

    thanks guys sorry if i seem a bit n00bish, i'm still learning about turbos and how they work

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
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    Canberra
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    Default

    i have an ATP turbo as does @MPS2NV, @rayd did (now EWG) and @LittleredMPS is joining the ranks soon

    it depends a lot what your goals are... the ATP hotside, ie the bit that bolts onto your manifold + downpipe is fine as long as you arent planning on going too crazy (ie going past stock fuel system/300kw at the wheels)

    if you go non-stock flange, ie T3/T4 you'll need a new manifold and downpipe, and may as well go external waste gate whilst you're at it... but it opens you up to so many more options for turbos... unfortunately we dont have the ease of custom making parts like they do in the states, so it wont be cheap...

    as for TIP/MAF, i would suggest getting a bigger MAF housing at least (where the sensor plugs in on your intake) else you cant really make use of the turbo effectively... as it will draw in more air than the sensor can read and you'll either have to de-tune car, or it'll have MAF cut and scare the bejebas out of you

    the easiest way (IMO) to upgrade your turbo (at least for 90% of people here) would be a BNR stage 3... unless you are planning on pushing more than 300kw at the wheels, there is little to no point in going bigger
    Newbie FAQ My Build Thread
    From stock, to GT3071, to substantially less modded, many lessons learned!
    3" HTP | 100 Cel DP | Autotech HPFP | AP V3 - Self Tuned on E20 | JBR RSB | CPE S2 REM | JBR Shifter Bushings

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    hunter valley
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SarcasticOne View Post
    i have an ATP turbo as does @MPS2NV, @rayd did (now EWG) and @LittleredMPS is joining the ranks soon

    it depends a lot what your goals are... the ATP hotside, ie the bit that bolts onto your manifold + downpipe is fine as long as you arent planning on going too crazy (ie going past stock fuel system/300kw at the wheels)

    if you go non-stock flange, ie T3/T4 you'll need a new manifold and downpipe, and may as well go external waste gate whilst you're at it... but it opens you up to so many more options for turbos... unfortunately we dont have the ease of custom making parts like they do in the states, so it wont be cheap...

    as for TIP/MAF, i would suggest getting a bigger MAF housing at least (where the sensor plugs in on your intake) else you cant really make use of the turbo effectively... as it will draw in more air than the sensor can read and you'll either have to de-tune car, or it'll have MAF cut and scare the bejebas out of you

    the easiest way (IMO) to upgrade your turbo (at least for 90% of people here) would be a BNR stage 3... unless you are planning on pushing more than 300kw at the wheels, there is little to no point in going bigger
    Theres a Edge thread about 400whp and whats needed. Remember at 400hp your engine life is reduced..


    The real question is what is your power goal??
    Many want Power not many hold it long.........

  4. #4

    Default

    BNR s3 +1.. There is a comparison between gtx3071 (essentially equal to gt 3076) and S3 and not much difference other than power up top, plus you can keep stock intake/tip etc
    My last upgrade is going to be an S3.
    http://www.ozmpsclub.com/forum/intak...30-turbos.html
    Last edited by dazza; 04-01-2013 at 06:30 PM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Perth
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    Default

    Biggest difference that I can see between the GT series turbos from edge and the BNR turbo's is that the BNR are not ball bearing (ceramic) where the GT series is BB.
    That is the main thing that would put me off the BNR when the time comes (I have a spare dead turbo for when mine starts showing the end of its life so I can get the core exchange done, but I am still undecided if I would go a GT28 (my power aims are fairly tame, the GT30 turbo's only start to show strong efficiency at high boost) or a BNR stg 3.

    The above is of course my understanding of it all currently, I have only just started to scrap the surface of the BT aspect of these cars.
    1993 KL-ZE 626 - Written off
    2005 MPS6 - Me Boosta, GTX2867 Freektuned

  6. #6
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    Default Re: ATP bolt on Garrett turbos

    What you call " high boost"?
    A GT30 will be better than a bnr above 22psi, gtx only becomes better than the gt above about 25-26psi

    And trust me, if you get a GT30 turbo, you'll want to run it at 23-24 psi (or more) they're just happier there
    Newbie FAQ My Build Thread
    From stock, to GT3071, to substantially less modded, many lessons learned!
    3" HTP | 100 Cel DP | Autotech HPFP | AP V3 - Self Tuned on E20 | JBR RSB | CPE S2 REM | JBR Shifter Bushings

  7. #7
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    Location
    Perth
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    Default

    Yup, that was my understanding too. Due to being a chicken, I would want to limit myself to around 20-21psi with a BT.

    In that range the BNR stg3 will still be fine (I think), but I would be giving serious consideration to the smaller GTX turbo's, like the GT28 kit that edge do. I think for my aims that would give me better response and greater efficiency than the big GT/GTX turbo's.

  8. #8
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    Jun 2009
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    Newcastle
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    Default

    I have done a thread on fitment issues, it's around

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
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    Adelaide
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    Default

    is it safe to run 20-25 psi on a turbo with stock internals on our engines? mines on 16psi on the stock turbo and runs fine. also, i forgot to ask, but how do you select a wastegate actuator? the site i posted has three to choose from, how does it affect things?

    power goal for me ideally would probably be 250-300 awkw, probably closer to 250 though, but i won't complain with more if it's safe to get that much power, i'm not looking at making it some sort of insane drag car, lol, but having the power so i know it's there when i need it would be good and my turbo's slowly on it's way out, so i'll be looking at upgrading it pretty soon, i know i'll probably need to upgrade a few other bits and pieces when i eventually get around to it

  10. #10
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    Apr 2010
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    Canberra
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    Default

    im running 24 atm on a GT3071
    if you do go this route, also plan to build engine... should get about 18-24 months, assuming a good tune

    get the 14psi wastegate actuator, that's the minimum boost you can run, and (in theory) you should never run more than about 2x spring pressure, thats when boost starts getting difficult...

  11. #11

    Default

    Im running BNR S3 on my MPS 6, 'think' im making around the 240kw atw but never dynod it, running 22psi no issues so far, i did have to upgrade my MAP sensor which is no big deal, otherwise cp-e inlet and aem cai fit fine. Also ull need to get a boost controller or u wont make more than 14psi on stock. @99GTT has almost finished his gtx28 ATP turbo build so will be interesting to see what kind of results he makes.

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