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Thread: Oil type/changes

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    Sydney
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    Default Oil type/changes

    Just wondering is changing the oil every so often ( as in between services ) a must or not really that necessary? Considering the car isn't driven grandma-like and isn't 100% standard.

    When it comes to choosing an oil are their any recommendations from people on which to buy.

    I've heard the brand Royal Purple being thrown around. and some number following eg Royal purple W10 or something like that. what do these numbers refer to?

    Thanks for any help

    Tone

  2. #2

    Default

    I run 5w30. mobil one. Drop it every 5k..

    I use to run royal purple, but now i get Mobil one for free.. so i just dump it at 5k

    a 10w40 imo is a better oil for this car. And that is what I was running with the royal P.

    The first figure is the viscosity when the oil is cold. So it flows like a SAE 10 would when cold. However when it get hotter it thickens up. and when at 100 deg C it flows like a SAE 40 oil would flow.

    Multi-grade motor oils (ie 10w-40) perform well not being too thick at cold start up to prevent engine wear by providing more instantaneous oil flow to your donk. However, there is a draw back. These additives shear back in high heat or during high shear force operation and break down causing some sludging. What's worse is once the additive begins to be depleted the motor oil no long resists thinning so now you have a thinner motor oil at 100 degrees. Your 10W-40 motor oil can easily become a 10W-30 or even a SAE 20 (10W-20) motor oil. I don't have to tell you why that is bad.

    Hence run the 10W-40.. and it may be a 30 in the end.. but the protection is there.

    I have seen a bad report from royal purple after 8k. But I have seen a few good ones too.

    Pensoil platinum seems to get a good wrap too..
    Last edited by Doc; 01-05-2009 at 05:17 PM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    Brisbane
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    Default

    Penrite 5W-40 was recommended to me, I drop it every 5000 too - I must admit that oils confuse me...

    Would a car in Sydeny use different oil to me in Brisbane for example?

  4. #4

    Default

    No.

    I would only use a 0w oil if it were parked outside in under -10deg C all the time

    A 5w is like water when its cold.

    I may consider a 10w-50 or 15w-50 if i were beating the p!ss out of it around a track every few weeks though

    Just my 2c though

    Doc

  5. #5

    Default

    I use Shell Helix Ultra fully synthetic 10W-40. The oil changing intervals says 10,000km in the manual, but have noticed most change their oil every 5,000km & so I asked alot of questions amongst the people in the know. I rang Shell technical, then spoke to Mazda service & then a mazda performance shop & they all say 10k is sufficient for a fully synthetic oil.

  6. #6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mav2777 View Post
    I use Shell Helix Ultra fully synthetic 10W-40. The oil changing intervals says 10,000km in the manual, but have noticed most change their oil every 5,000km & so I asked alot of questions amongst the people in the know. I rang Shell technical, then spoke to Mazda service & then a mazda performance shop & they all say 10k is sufficient for a fully synthetic oil.
    Well take a sample at say 8k. Send it for analysis, then youll have a real answer..

  7. Default

    I run 0W-40 Castrol Edge Sport and drop it every 4000-5000km. No problems with this oil, and its one of the better to take heat away from the cylinder heads. The level never seems to drop between changes (and I get no smoke), so its obviously not leaking past the turbo seals or eating much thru the combustion chamber.

    The friendly chemists next door to my office at Caltex swear on this oil with their lives, for cars like ours.

    ---------- Post added at 01:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:37 PM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by Doc View Post
    Well take a sample at say 8k. Send it for analysis, then youll have a real answer..
    Theres not much wrong with going to 10,000km for stock standard cars. I recommend 5000km changes as you get quite a large amount of carbon buildup in the oil at around that stage. Your oil filter does take the majority of the carbon particles out of the oil, but some still gets thru. Not only that, but the carbon in the oil will reduce the flow rate thru the filter, and may increase the engine temps marginally due to restricted flow.

    If you had an SP23, Maxx or Neo, I'd say yep, 10,000km is fine. MPS's, WRX's, Evo's - anything turbo charged, drop every 5,000km

  8. #8

    Default

    I am up for an oil change very soon at 50,000km. I will get an oil analysis done just to make sure if every 10,000km is fine for me.
    Motor Oil Myths and Facts
    This is a good article about oil changing intervals, myths & facts.

  9. #9

    Default

    myths and facts are blown away by analysis.

    Fact:

    Our tiny turbo is pushed pretty hard stock.. it get veeery hot..it kills the oil

  10. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Doc View Post
    myths and facts are blown away by analysis.

    Fact:

    Our tiny turbo is pushed pretty hard stock.. it get veeery hot..it kills the oil
    Couldnt agree with you more Doc.

  11. #11

    Default

    ..Cheers

  12. #12

    Default

    Always did my oil changes at 5000km...and mazda do my 10000km service.

    Just seen and heard many things from older turbo cars..and it was always about OIL.

    Call it overkill....id rather spend a few bucks for piece of mind.

    Happy Motoring
    duglet

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    Default

    well. in that case. after reading these posts. I think ill replace my oil this saturday. Now have to decide on which oil to use. after reading a bit it seems that the 10w 40 is the way to go?

    Or should i just wait until the turbo replacement? ( hopefully in 10 days )

  14. #14

    Default

    wait.. and just make sure they do it then

  15. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Doc View Post
    wait.. and just make sure they do it then
    Agreed, save your mulah till the turbo replacement. They should replace your oil anyway as there may be some contamination during the turbo swap out.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
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    Default

    Just bringing this thread back to life.
    Mazda service my car every 10,000k's and in between I get the other boys to do the 5000k service in betweens. I have owned many HSV etc and have always used Mobil 1 without fail but the boys recommend me not to use it in my MPS3 and I noticed in the car mags the the Nissan GTR uses it and recommends Mobile 1.

    Question: Is there a reason why, does anybody know,and they did tell me but I've forgotted the reason, does anybody use it, if not what do they use,and it would be great to do a poll on this if I knew how to do it

  17. #17
    Join Date
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    Default

    No Bites

  18. #18

    Default Save your money and save your engine

    A lot of the advice above is typical forum-perpetuated myth. Someone on this forum recently stated that it can't hurt to change your oil too often. Unfortunately that couldn't be more wrong.

    The Problem
    5000 km change intervals are harmful to your engine and our DI engines are even more vulnerable to the type of damage done by over servicing than PFI engines.

    Why does the problem exist?
    It's a cultural thing that arose in the US and was driven by marketing and profit making. The consequent myths and consumer expectations are now entrenched. The cultural gap is now so broad than in the US a car may have an 8000km OCI, while the same model, from the same production line, might have a 20,000 km OCI when sold in Europe where people aren't affected by the myths.

    Why it's OK to follow the manufacturers service interval
    All synthetic oils are capable of exceeding the manufacturers recommended OCI by at least 50% or more. It's incorrect to suggest the oil could break down or succumb to sludge any earlier.

    People using oil analysis reports to justify over servicing aren't reading them correctly. None of the reports that I've seen on DISI engines have shown oil that has reached condemning limits in terms of insolubles and oxidation. As for the solubles, if they are excessive, you need to drive the car further, not change the oil.

    The references to carbon contamination are also incorrect. People naturally assume that black oil is unhealthy, when the opposite is true. The colour of the oil is an indication of how well it's doing its job. The darker the better (up to a point not exceeding the manufacturers OCI).

    If you had a problem with contamination (not that you do, but if you did) the solution is to change the oil filter, not the oil.

    Why is it harmful to change the oil too frequently?

    In a word; volatility. Oil volatility is at its greatest in the first 3000km after an oil change. After that the volatility reduces and the oil stabilises.

    Volatility is particularly bad for a DI engine because all of the lost fractions exit via the PCV system. Much of it goes out through the rocker cover vent, into the intake, through the turbo compressor and intercooler, then puddles in the bottom of the inlet manifold where it combines with the stuff coming through the PCV valve to coat the inlet valves and combustion chambers in gunk.

    That black soot you see in your exhaust pipes, don’t assume it’s all caused by rich mixture. Excessive oil changing will contribute more soot.

    The presence of oil in the intake also lowers the octane rating of your fuel leading to detonation.

    The NOACK volatility test quantifies the extent of oil evaporation. The test standard - ASTM D5800 - 08 Standard Test Method for Evaporation Loss of Lubricating Oils by the Noack Method – also hints at another kind of danger associated with frequent oil changes where it states “Procedure C, using the Selby-Noack apparatus, also permits collection of the volatile oil vapors for determination of their physical and chemical properties. Elemental analysis of the collected volatiles may be helpful in identifying components such as phosphorous, which has been linked to premature degradation of the emission system catalyst.”

    A lot of phosphorous is lost in the initial boil-off phase of new oil and it’s likely to be harming oxygen sensors and cats.

    Engine manufacturers understand the problem and it would be easy for them to identify the type of damage done by over servicing and potentially result in a warranty claim denial.

    Summary
    By changing your oil at 5000km, you are subjecting your engine to oil that is almost always in the initial boil-off phase. It's contaminating and filling your engine with gunk. Contrary to popular and uninformed opinion, oil that is 10,000 km old is not likely to be harmful, and would certainly be less harmful than fresh oil.

    I've never changed my oil more frequently than the specified 10,000 km OCI and my engine is in perfect condition after 106,000 km with no problems with contamination, gunk or soot.

    When my warranty expires I would have no qualms running my oil out to 12,500 or even 15,000 km providing an oil analysis indicates that insolubles and oxidation are not excessive. And I'm sure my engine will thank me for it by remaining in peak uncontaminated condition.
    Last edited by kmh001; 29-10-2009 at 12:44 PM.

    Gone to Volvo


  19. #19
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    Default

    Im pretty sure Mazda would have done their homework regarding this.......if they say 10k, then thats fine by me.

  20. #20
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    Default

    Well there you go, you of never thought that. Well done Mal I think I might get a direct bat line to you for when I get confused talking to people with all these wonderful ideas....

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