Newbie FAQ My Build Thread
From stock, to GT3071, to substantially less modded, many lessons learned!
3" HTP | 100 Cel DP | Autotech HPFP | AP V3 - Self Tuned on E20 | JBR RSB | CPE S2 REM | JBR Shifter Bushings
Ok downpipe in. Had a CEL on first start up but cleared it and hasn't returned yet. Car pulls alot harder, not much of a change in noise. Doing a maf Cal tonight and onto some small tweaks afterwards.
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Damn CEL came back. It's P0037, rear sensor heater not working.
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Did you fit the spacer to the rear o2 sensor? Mine is just screwed into the bung with no spacer. Code might be coming on because the sensor is possibly out of the flow of exhaust air causing it to not to heat up.
No spacer
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@naasif
How are you finding driveability with the boost level changes at lower throttle?
BLACK3MPS
CORKSPORT|TMIC // SURE|AEROS // SURE|SIDEWINDER // SURE|RETURN // SURE|SHORTCUT // SURE|ANCHORS // SURE|COUNTERSHIFT // SURE|TORQ R3 // WHITELINE|RSB // MOOG|ENDLINKS // COBB|ACCESSPORT // CP-E|DOWNPIPE // AUTOTECH|INTERNALS
No issues so far..I've adjusted mine again using the Stage1+TIH+IC+98 v231 as a base. It's a little more responsive now, in 2nd. 3rd and up wasn't a problem before.
I haven't quite been able to reproduce the responsiveness you get in 1st on the Hypertech. I think their mapping must be very aggressive and I think the WGDC or something else is limiting the torque/boost in 1st gear. I'm still reading trying to understand the helpfiles and guides.
Again, I did as COBB recommend - made the adjustments and logged to make sure everything was still ok, especially knock.
Here's my latest graphs. I've slightly increased boost starting Accelerator pedal position 6.25 and up -
Trying to keep it subtle ... | COBB AccessPort | COBB DP | CP-e HPFP | CorkSport TMIC | TurboSmart BPV | Denso ITV22| CorkSport Boost Tubes | SURE Full3 Aeros | SURE REM (Street) | SURE AGS SS Shift Knob | 2XS SSP + SURE CounterShift | Speedline Front Strut Brace | Whiteline RSB | Prima Paint Protection
BLACK3MPS
CORKSPORT|TMIC // SURE|AEROS // SURE|SIDEWINDER // SURE|RETURN // SURE|SHORTCUT // SURE|ANCHORS // SURE|COUNTERSHIFT // SURE|TORQ R3 // WHITELINE|RSB // MOOG|ENDLINKS // COBB|ACCESSPORT // CP-E|DOWNPIPE // AUTOTECH|INTERNALS
Trying to keep it subtle ... | COBB AccessPort | COBB DP | CP-e HPFP | CorkSport TMIC | TurboSmart BPV | Denso ITV22| CorkSport Boost Tubes | SURE Full3 Aeros | SURE REM (Street) | SURE AGS SS Shift Knob | 2XS SSP + SURE CounterShift | Speedline Front Strut Brace | Whiteline RSB | Prima Paint Protection
Trying to keep it subtle ... | COBB AccessPort | COBB DP | CP-e HPFP | CorkSport TMIC | TurboSmart BPV | Denso ITV22| CorkSport Boost Tubes | SURE Full3 Aeros | SURE REM (Street) | SURE AGS SS Shift Knob | 2XS SSP + SURE CounterShift | Speedline Front Strut Brace | Whiteline RSB | Prima Paint Protection
Fair enough but I'm still not game enough to touch it! haha
I'll potentially be having a go early next year on my own car
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BLACK3MPS
CORKSPORT|TMIC // SURE|AEROS // SURE|SIDEWINDER // SURE|RETURN // SURE|SHORTCUT // SURE|ANCHORS // SURE|COUNTERSHIFT // SURE|TORQ R3 // WHITELINE|RSB // MOOG|ENDLINKS // COBB|ACCESSPORT // CP-E|DOWNPIPE // AUTOTECH|INTERNALS
I gave it a go a few weeks back after thinking (read procrastinating) about it for months. I have read "Buckers ATR Cheat Sheet" , "Abilor's Tooning Guide for Noobs" guide and also the Cobb AP help file (multiple times over). They help with understanding what all the tables do and give some suggested figures to tweak. Some of the guides (particularly Abilors) havent been updated along with revisions to Cobb AP and ATR, so you should only use them as an introductory guide (as some of the content may be outdated)
I changed basic stuff like open Loop / closed loop tranistion times, Knock Retard decay, rev limiter, flat foot shifting, launch control, fuel density (matched it to the MSDS/TDS of V-Power), Waste Gate compensations, and did a MAF Calibration ... I wasn't game to up the boost from stage 1 (still on stock HPFP) or fiddle with the timing (might try that next, WOT logs showing little to no Knock)... but before hitting the timing table i really need to read and study more.
I loved setting up Launch Control and Flat Foot Shifting, it was very easy to do. Flat foot shifting is fun muchly. I've set it at 4.9k revs, but will probably change it to 4.5k revs to better match actual revs with required revs (i.e. shifting from 5.8k 2nd gear should land at about 4.5k in 3rd gear). I've set the Launch control to 3.1k revs. It sounds great bouncing off the limiter at 3.1k, because race car!
Awesome, thanks for sharing. I started off like you did but slowly read up on everything and now I have different tunes for E85, methanol and DD maps. I make changes pretty regulary due to changing temps etc. Were lucky to have Cobb support us so well cause not many platforms have access to Tuning devices like the Accessport and ATR to self tune.
I should have my accessport in a couple of weeks, once ive read up enough and am happy i know what im doing ill make changes, but for those that were on ots maps would you say they were safe in that your engine wouldnt detionate, overboost or run lean? I mean obviously the power wouldnt be as good as a pro tune but safety is the main thing. also how do u guys go with 4gear pulls all the time while logging, whats that 150km/hr plus
mitch
You don't talk about 4th gear pulls mate.........that is secret squirrel stuff . I am still totally torn on what package to get, there seems to be two main contenders, but I love to try new things so I am not sure.
You have to be careful when playing with timing, but optimizing timing is where a lot of the power comes from.
The goal when setting up the spark advance is to achieve peak cylinder pressure at 15* after top dead center (TDC). That is also known as MBT (max best torque). You have to be careful because you don't want to go past MBT as this can cause some very high cylinder pressures which can result in head lift and broken rods. The other problem with setting up the proper timing is that as you are knock limited on certain fuels. MBT may be around 18-20*, but due to the octane rating of the fuel you are using, you may only be able to get to 14-15* of spark advance before you become knock limited, and detonation is another great way to get rid of those rods.
I got my Cobb AP late last year and was very excited.
First I ran stage 0 OTS. Found out that doesn't offer much and is just like stock so I went to Safe mode OTS - that unlocked a few things and gave me some ear to ear grins :-) Did a few WOT logs and monitored the fuel pump pressure to see if it holds. Since mine is a gen 1 MPS I am lucky to have a good fuel pump so I upped to Stage 1 OTS and still kept monitoring. All stock except for the 3 engine mounts.
Then I made a map after studying Bucker and Abilor's tuning guides and all their stickies and then also added MPG tuning in cruise range as well. I had a great time learning about the ECU and engine management. All fun and after 20 revisions of the map I think I got it all sorted.
I am pretty happy with the car now I just need to tune my driver mod to make good launches.
Last edited by wyvernone; 25-04-2013 at 02:34 PM.