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Thread: Eliminating annoying noises

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Sydney, Hills
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    151

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    Quote Originally Posted by kmh001 View Post
    If it's a 6 my initial suspicion would be directed at the drivers side engine mount. They account for a lot of "noises" in these cars. Dunno if it's the same with the 3 tho.
    Should I actually simply change the driver side engine mount and see if it get rid of lots noises?

    How does the side engine mount look like? I got the rear mount replaced with the CPE one tho.
    GROM iPod & Bluetooth car kit, ETS TMIC, HKS BOV, AEM CAI, Denso ITV-22's, CPE down pipe, Custom Exhaust tip, Hypertech tuned, Bilstein shocks with King Spring, CPE engine mount, CPE rear diff mount, Whiteline rear sway bar, EBC redstuff brake pad, DBA 4000 front slotted rotors, Prosport Boost gauge, JBarone Short Shift Plate

  2. #22

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    If you don't mind spending the money it wouldn't hurt. They are notoriously prone to partial failure.

    The mount looks a bit like a tripod with the end of the engine sitting on top of it, connected with a 17mm bolt in the centre.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Sydney, Hills
    Posts
    151

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    Quote Originally Posted by kmh001 View Post
    If you don't mind spending the money it wouldn't hurt. They are notoriously prone to partial failure.

    The mount looks a bit like a tripod with the end of the engine sitting on top of it, connected with a 17mm bolt in the centre.
    But I don't recall there is an after market side engine mount? Are you saying changing to a brand new stock one?
    GROM iPod & Bluetooth car kit, ETS TMIC, HKS BOV, AEM CAI, Denso ITV-22's, CPE down pipe, Custom Exhaust tip, Hypertech tuned, Bilstein shocks with King Spring, CPE engine mount, CPE rear diff mount, Whiteline rear sway bar, EBC redstuff brake pad, DBA 4000 front slotted rotors, Prosport Boost gauge, JBarone Short Shift Plate

  4. #24

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    There are both. AWR make a side engine mount but the feed back suggests it's pretty harsh. I don't know how much a stock mount is but replacing it seems to make a big difference according to ppl who have done it.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Sydney, Hills
    Posts
    151

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    Diver side engine is now changed to brand new stocker. All noises had gone and the car is now silky smooth as brand new on day 1. In side the cabin, you just can not notice the engine is running if you dun rev it. =D
    Oh, I have also changed the lower control arm bushes, they are all worn out.

    Bloody awesome.

  6. Default

    ive got a query and was wondering if anyone knows what kind of problem this may be..

    well first off ive got a Mazda 3 Mps Gen 1. and the problem is that theres a knocking noise at the front going over bumps or very un even roads (Sydney), but ive only realised this when the car is cold and from the start of the morning.. and when youve driven it or warmed the car up for 10-15 mins the knocking noise disapears!?!?.. so i went to pedders for a check and they quoted me on the front strut mounts to be replaced and the front lower control arm rear bushes to be replaced.. any one here has had this similar problem?? im confused because i hear the knocking noise over bumps then later they disappear.. im leaning towards that when the car is warmed up which ever "bolts" are lose become tight from the heat contraction..

    any thoughts or solutions much appreciated!! thank you for reading..

  7. #27

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    My first suggestion would be go somewhere else for a second opinion. I wouldn't ask Pedders for the time of day. A Mazda dealer would be a good start because they know these cars and their history.

  8. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kmh001 View Post
    My first suggestion would be go somewhere else for a second opinion. I wouldn't ask Pedders for the time of day. A Mazda dealer would be a good start because they know these cars and their history.
    thanks for your suggestion bud, thought that pedders were suspension "experts" so id go there first.. but after looking through all the forums even US based. i think the lower control arm bushes are dead. strange that after my car is warmed up and running the knocking noise goes away

  9. #29

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    Good thread to make sticky...

    - My drivers seat used to click when I went around left hand corners. Drove me mad for a while. It was shifting on its mounts. Tightening the mount bolts fixed that.

    - A pronounced rattle from the RH side of the engine compartment (i.e front of the engine) a while back turned out to be a dying belt aircon tensioner/idler pulley bearing. Replaced under warranty.

    - I get the occasional rattle from the innards of my drivers door just enough to make me swear to fix it then it vanishes for a while.

    - Clicking from pads on reversing I have no problem with. Doesn't happen often, usually after standing o/n when the discs get a small amount of surface rust on them, enough to drag the pads backwards.

    - At 65,000km now, the only occasional and disconcerting noise I still have is a pronounced thump from the rear end on braking after a short period of acceleration, even very mildly, such as driving suburban streets and accelerating and braking between stop signs from block to block. It feels like a diff mounting issue but I've had a look underneath and all looks good and tight so far and at the last service I asked Mazda to check all bolt torques correct and they said it was all fine - I assume they did what I asked - never a good idea to assume such things. I have no idea why it only happens sometimes though, as a diff mount issue would be bound to get worse over time. Could be a suspension arm bushing I guess. I'll have to follow it up when I get back.
    CP_e Standback & PNP; CP_e 3" SS Downpipe; Corksport FMIC with Top-mount K&N filter & OEM Ram CAI; Turbosmart BOV; Dashhawk; Prosport Boost Guage; JBR solid shift bushes; DBA 4000 Wiper-Slot front rotors; Hawk Ferro-Carbon HPS Street front brake pads (@ 69,000km); Sumitomo HTRZIII's in 225/45 x 18

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