Hi guys, I am looking to replace the Down Pipe at some stage in my 06 MPS6 has anyone done this at home? EG: no hoist, home tools, etc... If there is a thread on this can you point me in the right direction?
Thx All
Hi guys, I am looking to replace the Down Pipe at some stage in my 06 MPS6 has anyone done this at home? EG: no hoist, home tools, etc... If there is a thread on this can you point me in the right direction?
Thx All
Grind your knuckles down first. That's the general complaint after a DP install.
@KRNAGE and I spend a good 5 hrs just trying to get my heat shielding off as 2 blolts seized, needless to say if you have a few miles on the clock it won't be very easy
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sounds like this is going to be a fun one
as @raffa said, we spent a lot of time trying to do his and still didnt get it done. We will look at it again though!!
I did my DP at home without hoist or many tools, ended up having to go out and buy some more tools as I was missing a few. I also did an Exhaust Manifold at the same time as thats usually the best way to do it as it gives a lot more room to move (well on the 3 anyway). I also had way under 50k km's on my car so I only had stubborn bolts, but had to spray them a few times and then was able to take them off (only just ticked over 70k km's as well)
heres the links I used (not sure if they still work as they are links to the US forums) and some pics
Links to How Tos:
- Brief How-to: Downpipe removal
- Mazdaspeed Forums
- Protege Garage Exhaust Manifold V3 Installed - Mazdaspeed Forums
- PG manifold install
Some pics I took of my old setup
Last edited by KRNAGE; 14-08-2012 at 01:46 PM.
Good luck!!!!
Pay for it to be someone elses problem - my 2c. Its not worth it
05 VR 6 MPS LUXURY - WHATS STOCK????
Winner of Most modified @ Smokeys car meet
UP an coming events: Winton Track day 17th December
Remember pay by the 16th of November and get free lunch and drinks on day
Next install: New Head, ARP Studs, Upgraded VVT, BSD, Mazdaspeed Coil Cover, Injector seals + studs
I thought he just paid you for sex
Definately possible, maybe wait until ax does the write up.
Hardest part is getting the dp bolts, the rest isnt actually that bad after you do it the first time lol.
If you take the cowl off, wipers etc it makes life a million times easier (thanks ax).
I did it on the 3 two weeks ago, it wasn't hard to do on that, just take your time and enjoy the experience, after all that's what modding a car is all about, putting on performance parts and feeling the fruits of your work with a better driving experience.
p.s. make sure to buy an O2 sensor socket.
Cheers
I was thinking of this as my next mod, but this sounds all too hard.
Thanks heaps for that mate, appreciate the visuals.
Thanks all for the pointers. This one might be one of those jobs I call a couple mates around for... I hadent thaught to do the Exhaust Manifold at the same time, thanks for that. This is one of those mods for a later time it feels. I have plenty to do before this. I have read that a couple people brought there O2 sensor removal tool from ebay, anyone use one of those? or is it better to buy one from somewhere elce. I figure its one of those tools that may get used twice in its life so dont need it to be the best quality, as long as it does the job.
thanks again everyone. appreciate the feedback. When I get around to it ill post some pics... including grazed knuckles
Buy the long socket with the slot part way down the side. Don't get the one that's offset
I did mine by myself, in a carport, just axle stands and leaning the engine right forward. Took most of the day, but I'm slow, patient and methodical and label everything and lay all stuff out so I know where it came from and goes back. This included pulling both cats and their wires right out from under the TIP and battery box. BTW you need a proper cat spanner - use the slotted one, not the offset one - you need all the room you can get. You need a lot of Penetrene or Inox too. Getting the old pipe out is tougher than putting the new one in. The heat shields are the main hang-up and getting the old Cat mount out of the way is key so you can pull the old pipe out both ways, half up and half down. It'd take a while to write the specs for it but I can discuss it by phone if required. It's a bit tricky but I didn't view it as hard, despite a few curses and barked knuckles.
Last edited by Doug_MPS6; 15-08-2012 at 12:27 AM.
CP_e Standback & PNP; CP_e 3" SS Downpipe; Corksport FMIC with Top-mount K&N filter & OEM Ram CAI; Turbosmart BOV; Dashhawk; Prosport Boost Guage; JBR solid shift bushes; DBA 4000 Wiper-Slot front rotors; Hawk Ferro-Carbon HPS Street front brake pads (@ 69,000km); Sumitomo HTRZIII's in 225/45 x 18
"la fortuna favorisce il coraggioso"
CP-E TMIC, K&N typhoon SRI , COBB 2way adjustable shifter, TWM bushings, Sure AGS 212g knob, JBR 70a trilogy mounts, JBR boost tubes, Medieval 2.5" TIP, 2XS racepipe, 2XS interior light upgrade, Hypertech , RDA slotted front rotors, DGR coilovers, hotchkis RSB, Ultragauge EM, Work CE28N'S in blaze blue, D1 blue lugs
3 or 6?
Pretty much the same, but, on the 6 you can drop the tailshaft down, remove the gearbox/tailshaft flange and it'll all come out the bottom.
05 VR 6 MPS LUXURY - WHATS STOCK????
Winner of Most modified @ Smokeys car meet
UP an coming events: Winton Track day 17th December
Remember pay by the 16th of November and get free lunch and drinks on day
Next install: New Head, ARP Studs, Upgraded VVT, BSD, Mazdaspeed Coil Cover, Injector seals + studs
'05 MPS 6, Liquid Silver Metallic, Leather, Sunroof.
DashHawk, TurboSmart Dualport, COBB SF SRI and TIP, CPe REM, 2XS Titanium SSP, Coolant bypass,Exedy OEM spec clutch, Corksport SS Braided Clutch Line, ROH Mantis 18*7.5+45.
Growing old is compulsory... Growing up is optional...
I'd say that all the extra ancillary removals are quite possibly further complicating the job. I did mine with steering rack and tail-shaft, etc in place with no great drama. Removing either of those doesn't solve the bulk that the cat heat shields take up, much higher up. But you have to hold your mouth just right...;-) An additional issue with installing the new one, depending on which manufacturer's DP you have, is the access to the turbo flange studs, especially the bottom ones, to enable correct torquing up.
Sensor removal sockets are expensive for a good one , buy a cheap ring spanner that fits the sensor ,then use an angle grinder with a thin cut of wheel and cut a small gap in ring spanner so as wire can go through .
Make certain you use anti seize when re installing sensor.