If you are going to do this yourself buy a good o2 sensor now.... I have had no issue with o2 sensors or the bolts on the flange and i put this down to good tools!! AND WD40
If you are going to do this yourself buy a good o2 sensor now.... I have had no issue with o2 sensors or the bolts on the flange and i put this down to good tools!! AND WD40
oh god no why do all that so much work for so little gained
---------- Post added at 07:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:57 PM ----------
i'm getting under mine this weekend and taking photos to go with my how to, i might even take mine out and get it welded up as i can see some small cracks appearing
05 VR 6 MPS LUXURY - WHATS STOCK????
Winner of Most modified @ Smokeys car meet
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Next install: New Head, ARP Studs, Upgraded VVT, BSD, Mazdaspeed Coil Cover, Injector seals + studs
'05 MPS 6, Liquid Silver Metallic, Leather, Sunroof.
DashHawk, TurboSmart Dualport, COBB SF SRI and TIP, CPe REM, 2XS Titanium SSP, Coolant bypass,Exedy OEM spec clutch, Corksport SS Braided Clutch Line, ROH Mantis 18*7.5+45.
Growing old is compulsory... Growing up is optional...
Cant beat a proper O2 sensor socket. They can be tight, even with liberal WD40 or similar. They need full lateral support or they can be damaged. Be sure to disconnect the plug end under the battery box and TIP before you start twirling the O2 sensor around, or you will twist and possible break the lead. Work the sensor undone with tiny little "doings and undoings" a bit at a time and adding WD40 as necessary to keep it all lubed up.
^ This. I had a proper deep o2 sensor socket, my lower sensor came out piece of cake, the top was very difficult, I loosened, sprayed inox, tightened, sprayed, heated etc for a good half hour and it was just not working out, even with a breaker bar. Eventually got it off and there was no threads at all left, had to buy a new one and put it in.. Depends how it was originally tightened, and how many kms on the car I guess
'05 6 MPS | BNR S3 | JBR 3.5" Intake | Corksport Airbox | CP-E 3.25" TMIC | M2 DP | CP-E CBE | CP-E/TT Diff Mounts | Autotech HPFP Internals | JBR REM, PMM, TMM | SURE Shortcut | SURE Countershift | SURE Anchors | Denso ITV22s | JBR TIGs | EGR Delete | Coolant Bypass | PTP Inj Seals | MD OCC | H&R Springs | Bilstein B8 Shocks | Car-LED Tails | Badgeless Grille | 6000k HIDs | OZ Ultraleggera 18x8 +48
DAZZA, the threads are very fine and there are not many of them. They get coated in hard intensely-heated and welded-on fine carbon that insinuates its way right into the threads, even the mated faces, especially the top sensor, which runs hotter. Mine were fairly tough to remove but only very gentle pressure to undo and then re-tighten, progressively extending the rotations both ways until the whole thing frees up, bleeding more Inox into the slowly-opening joint, seems to work. I sprayed mine the day before even starting out on th rest of the job. Plainly, it seems this task can't be rushed.
CP_e Standback & PNP; CP_e 3" SS Downpipe; Corksport FMIC with Top-mount K&N filter & OEM Ram CAI; Turbosmart BOV; Dashhawk; Prosport Boost Guage; JBR solid shift bushes; DBA 4000 Wiper-Slot front rotors; Hawk Ferro-Carbon HPS Street front brake pads (@ 69,000km); Sumitomo HTRZIII's in 225/45 x 18
This job in my opinion is a pain with a hoist... let alone jackstands. Don't get me wrong, completely do able, but not a fun job either way. Good luck, take your time, practice patience, and my biggest tip that works for me: When you're angry, you're stupid... so walk away for a few minutes.
That's saved me a few times.
I like that one
Spoke to the guys at MPS Garage this week about it, they said they have it down to 8 hours themselves.... 8 hours at a garage!!! He said everything this thread has been saying about the O2 sensor, the top one is a hard one to do, and costly if you don't get it right.
Thanks for the input though everyone, appreciate it.
If your in Sydney go to castle hill exhausts they done it in like 2.5 hours and charges 250-300 from memory
having done this on the 3 myself with car stands and hand tools, its very possible. I got a O2 sensor tool off ebay for $25 or something, worth the investment or just borrow one from a member. The top O2 sensor you can take off, but the one of the exhaust, I tackled once off the car. i put antiseize on all the bolts so you dont stress taking them off next time, if there is a next time..
took me a weekend due to stubborn bolts.
6 is more of a pita but doable
Has anyone had a look at the difference between the CorkSport down pipe v's the Cp-e down pipe? I see most people have the cp-e one On there mods lists, is the CorkSport worth a look? Are there other options? Any info would be appreciated. Thx all.
@auscer has a the 6 Corksport ask him.
IMO all dumps will be similar in performance. It comes down to the differences in options, fitment, finish and CELL problems.
Once you get one fitted, you don't care cause the fun of driving after installing is too much fun.
One thing to consider is that our down pipe is a divorced style as opposed to the bell mouth. We found better testing with the divorced style, and stuck with that design over the bell mouth opening. The divorced down pipe/dump pipe will have a smoother exhaust flow when the waste gate is actuated.
-Tyler
Thanks mate, will do
cost is what keeps me researching, If i can save some cash then I can put that into the next mod. thanks for the input I am looking forward to some increase in performance for sure!
Thanks Tyler, I like the idea of the divorced style system (it makes sense to me), there is a large per-portion of those on the forums who know much more than me and use the CP-E system which is why I asked the question. I have been very pleased with the Corksport products I have purchased so far so it looks like cost may be the big factor which means come Christmas I should have a new Corksport DP