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Thread: Hid

  1. #21

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    true fog lights are usually 3000k. And contrary to popular belief, fog lights are less about seeing the road in front of you, and more about being seen by other road users. In truly foggy weather (which we don't get as much in Australia) pure white light just makes an indestinguishable glare in front of you. Yellow is the next longest visible light wavelength after red - which you can't use for obvious reasons. So it means an oncoming car has more chance of seeing your car, how far away it is, and where it is positioned on the road rather than a great big ball of white light. You're actually supposed to use fog lights independently - ie, fogs on, low beams off.


    Driving lights, on the other hand, are meant to aim low and wide to light up the foreground area under the beam patter of the low-beams and the outer areas of the road - MPS has driving lights with this configuration. They're meant to work in conjunction with the low beams - think about it if you're standing in front of the car - driving lights hit your shins, low beams hit your balls, high beams hit your chest.

    I've got 55W 5000k HID's in my driving lights. They're friggin powerful, so I only use them in remote areas. But by all means you can throw 3000k's in there if you live an area with lots of fog.

    Hope that helps 'shed some light' on the subject.....! ROFL.
    Last edited by SMOKEY; 07-08-2012 at 02:49 PM.

  2. Default

    I use to have 5000k then 6000k and now i have 8000k HID's.

    I agree with you SMOKEY where the greater the output, the lower visibility you get. That being said, I usually drive around the city or well lit areas hence why I'm looking at 8000k HIDs.

    On another note, I saw a red MPS 3 Gen 1 with white rims, exhaust and black strip on the side 'bump' of the bonnet. It also had a yellow film foglights. Anyone seem this? I've looked up laminex films and quite like the look of yellow foglights...JDM style. lol


  3. #23

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    i've got a set of lamin-x on the way - for headlights and some lightly tinted ones for driving lights - just for looks.

    they're not cheap though - it's about $110 bucks for just that posted. The main reason i got them was to protect against stones and pitting/sandblasting which poly carbonate lenses are really susceptible to.

    if you just want the look - you can get ebay tint film for a few bucks - do the same job and won't hurt your pocket if you want to rip it off eventually.

    Think the car you're referring to belongs to James, @Bakis

  4. #24

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    i got friends that tint fog lights pretty much any colour you like, mostly yellow

  5. #25

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    will putting higher wattage bulb put any strain on the factory ballasts for the main driving lights? will there be wider/longer coverage using higher wattage?

  6. #26

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    I believe the wattage is handled by the ballasts for xenon lights, at least for light output.. I tihnk the oem ballasts are 35w, 55w is a bit excessive for city driving, you will blind oncoming drivers
    Last edited by dazza; 07-08-2012 at 05:29 PM.

  7. #27

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    You can run 35w globes and 55w ballasts - or 55w globes and 55w ballasts. End result is brighter light. And if aimed correctly you will have no more issues than with stock setup. It's all in the setup.

    The stock Stanley projectors in the Mazda HID aren't great - they have a very small bowl which makes it hard to get light output. But you can get vast improvement from upgrading the fresnel lens to a clear lens (also avail from trs).

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
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    Melbourne , Victoria
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    What's TRS @SMOKEY n any luck with the rain visors?

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    Sunshine Coast, QLD
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMOKEY View Post
    4300k is the colour of choice for MOST useable light. It's closest to real day light, and will put most light down on the road.

    Go either way in the spectrum in any direction and you're losing ouput in exchange for colour. Which is why i suggest 5000k, because you still get decent light, but with a nice euro tinge of white to the light.
    anyone reading this. please google 'lumens' and 'kevlins', a measure of light brightness and colours and find out what lumens your hids are.

    this will give you a very different picture to what has been described incorrectly in the above quote.
    Last edited by projectrracing; 08-08-2012 at 07:31 AM.

  10. #30

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    @projectrracing,

    What's your point ? To humor you I did exactly that - first search result said exactly what I have said.

    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ghtness-output)

    Yes - lumens measure output or 'intensity' but it is also quite clearly stated that the highest lumens are achieved by bulbs with a kelvin (not 'kevlins') rating circa 4300k.

    Perhaps you've misinterpreted?
    Last edited by SMOKEY; 08-08-2012 at 07:40 AM.

  11. #31
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    lol at me yes. i changed my mind about which subject to quote you on and went back and forth and quoted the wrong post sorry.

    you made a vague generalization about bringing on death if you move too far away from 4300K. which i agree with you (and a single google search will confim) is the brightest, but not the vague generalization about moving away from 4300 will cause issues.

    there is nothing wrong with 6000K, and without getting too scientific with it, and mainly cos I don't know how to put what I'm trying to say into text. but our eyes see different light specturms/colour in a different way. and these spectrums change with reflections etc. what are most street signs made of? some kind of reflective magic vodo. some thing to do with blue colours allows our eyes to see this reflected spectrum better that white reflected spectrum colours.

    4300K brightess light
    6000K allows street signs in further distance to be seen due to reflected colouring (cant explain this vodo in text)

    which is why when most pick 5000K, this is a happy medium between the two. and pretty good choice by yourself.

    rain screws this blue colour reflection thin. i guess water refracts blue colours differently than white colours. hence why 8000K is dicing with death at night in the rain. agreed with you on that one.

    so different colours will give a slight advance over other colours, but it will depend on the situations in which the car is mainly used. or if you don't wanna hurt you brain trying to figure it out. go the safe option and pick 5000K.

    p.s. Just read that whole light. The lumens they have really wrong for anything except their own products. Probably a sales tool.

    You'd expect 8000K to be 21-2300lm, not 1160 light they have suggested.

    35W HID (my take)
    3,000 2600lm (refects alot less, good for water based fog/mist)
    4,300 3100lm (brightest)
    5,000 2900lm (reflects more)
    6,000 2600lm (reflects best)
    8,000 2200lm (twice as bright as a 55W halogen or 30% loss if HID is standard)
    10,000 1100lm (same as 55W halogen, why bother?)
    12,000 700lm (whats the point?)
    Last edited by projectrracing; 08-08-2012 at 08:44 AM.

  12. #32

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    You're a funny guy....

    I won't go into the fact that some 4300k's have higher out out than others. (A 4300k Philips 85122+ for example will take a shit in your run of the mill 4300k eBay globe when it comes to output.)

    But variations in lumens aside, when it comes to colour temp, the indisputable laws of physics say that 4300k will put the most visible light for human eyes on the road in front. Why do you think OEMs chose this colour when they could chose any colour in the spectrum they want?

    If you want to tell yourself that 6000k will be better because it reflects the white parts of street signs then so be it - I won't argue otherwise but it seems a fairly isolated advantage.

    As I have said, and you reiterated, 5000k is a good compromise between looks and performance.

    I don't think I can be any clearer, and I think from the amount of times you've edited your post you now seem to agree.

    Side note: don't run 55w globes in your low beams - the Mazda bowls and housings are already way too small and the huge increase in heat from these globes will most likely ruin one or the other. I only have them in my d/lights cos I rarely use them and only in remote areas where I'm getting plenty of airflow.
    Last edited by SMOKEY; 08-08-2012 at 11:44 AM.

  13. #33

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    Agree to agree to agree


    Peter "SLIXX"

  14. #34

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    I might even do everyone a favour and take some pics.

    I have 3000k (Ebay), 4300k (OEM's), 5000k (Morimotos), 6000k (Phillips Ultinon) and 8000k (Ebay) globes to suit.

    That being said, i'm still runing the factory globes lol.

  15. #35

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    haha nice range of selection

  16. #36
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    Sunshine Coast, QLD
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    i think with the array of products and colours availble, after a while you collect a few different bits and pieces. i got 2 pairs of different ballasts and every colour globe from 4300 to 8000.

  17. #37
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    Oooh, goody a post about colour and light.

    OK, for those who dont know, degrees kelvin is a standard for measuring the colour (hue) of light ONLY, it has nothing to do with intensity (lumens), or power (watts).

    The reason 8000k bulbs (and over) are dangerous is due to the fact that bluer light diffuses more readily than any other, causing glare and eye fatigue. This diffusion occurs in the atmosphere, and is far more pronounced in fog & rain, as you have just added millions of tiny prisms that will allow the light to diffuse further. Think of a rainbow, ever noticed how the bluer end is always thicker, or think about the reason we have a blue sky and why water appears blue.

    5000k - 6000k bulbs are seen as being a comfortable alternative, because that is the hue of light the eye is most accustomed to, industry standards rate daylight (white light) at around 5500k (this varies throughout the course, and conditions of the day), the reason the manufacturers choose 4300k, is to do with both the natural (highest) output of a Xenon bulb (i.e without the colouring agents added), and the fact that while 5500k is considered daylight, tests have proven that when driving at night this colour temperature still causes a small amount of diffusion in rain and fog, as smokey mentioned before, yellow light has a lower amount of diffusion so it cuts through the rain & fog, rather than refracting.

    The reason a 6000k bulb will appear to illuminate a road sign before a 4300k bulb, is due to the point I made earlier about diffusion, you will definitely see the highly reflective sign earlier with 6000k because your photons are spilling out and bouncing all over the place, however it will become legible a lot quicker with 4300k bulbs, as the reflected light will come back to your eyes in straighter lines. Which also highlights the reason we have headlight washers, they are there to prevent dust & dirt on the lens diffusing the light too much, causing glare.

    It is also worth noting that a 55w ballast will throw a different colour of light than a 35 w ballast, from the same bulbs, and yes the projectors and lenses make a big difference in the output of light.

    I run 3500k fogs, 6000k mains & 6000k 55w high beams.

    And who else hates people who stick HID kits in reflector type housings ?, now thats dicing with death.
    Nearly all men can stand adversity. But if you want to test a man's character - give him power.
    Abraham Lincoln

  18. #38

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    Quote Originally Posted by MattMPS3 View Post
    Oooh, goody a post about colour and light.

    I run 3500k fogs, 6000k mains & 6000k 55w high beams.

    And who else hates people who stick HID kits in reflector type housings ?, now thats dicing with death.
    I'm guessing it also explains why HiD are illegal with-out auto-levelling?


    Peter "SLIXX"
    Last edited by slixx; 08-08-2012 at 02:11 PM.

    Snapped by Tangcla - FB Page
    Currently RaydTuned
    Lots of love from 2XS Racing & Dan's Garage Detailing

  19. #39
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    you mean without?

  20. #40

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    @MattMPS3 correct correct correct
    @slixx correct

    And i'll be the first to acknowledge that I have been guilty in my younger/stupider days of running a HID kit in a sealed beam headlight - and what made it worse was that it was an LS400 headlight, which is probably one of the biggest damn headlights you can get. I used to get flashed a fair bit, and really started looking into things when I was in heavy traffic on an overpass one night and noticed i was lighting up an overhead sign on ANOTHER overpass about 300M away.

    I did a lot of research and reading, and ended up retrofitting that headlight with an Infiniti FX-R projector and gattling gun shrouds. Since then i've been a bit of a HID nut.

    I have been tooling up to do a retrofit on some MPS3 headlights - practicing on a spare set and was hoping to do a quad projector setup - but after much talking with Matt from TRS.com, we've come to the conclusion that it isn't possible due to limited space and probable alignment issues.

    I'll still be doing upgraded globes, clear lense upgrade, colour shield mod and washer mod to the standard setup - should be good!

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