My list of n00b MPS questions. Little help?

[imaspy]

Hi all. Now that I have had a while to acquaint myself with my MPS, I have a few n00bified questions to throw at those who hopefully know!

any help appreciated

1. advanced key. starting to annoying me. i have RTFM, and it makes sense to me. however, every so often the system *seems* to go a bit nuts on me - can't figure out why. here's what happens..... come to a stop. apply handbrake. push engine start/stop button - car is now off. open driver's door, and..... BEEP-BEEP! .... BEEP-BEEP!....... BEEP-BEEP! forever. why is the damn thing beeping at me? it doesnt do it every time.... only sometimes.... and i can't figure out what is making the difference. then if i get out of the car (with the key), the nav screen lights up and says "Advanced Key not found".... is this some kind of error/bug, or am i just not doing something right??

2. sometimes i have a problem catching third. i just sometimes can't find the hole (story of my life) - this doesnt just happen when i'm driving ...erm... more enthusiastically, either am i still scaling the learning curve?

3. i haven't looked for the tire placard - what pressures does everyone recommend? guessing i should check them weekly too.

4. cold starting. i note the blue temp icon. actually, it threw me not having a temp gauge at all :P should i be a) letting her warm up until that light is off before driving at all, or b) driving but very lightly whilst that light is on?

5. the fuel cap seems very easy to unscrew. is that right? i mean, compared to all my previous cars. also there is no clicking when you screw it back on either. maybe it's that i havent owned a mazda before

6. really? is there no way just to have cruise control on by default? it's pretty annoying having to push 'cruise on' every time i start the car...

7. looking at getting some relatively cheap seat covers to preserve my seats (as this is a novated lease). any recommendations that fit well?

8. i'm gonna plastidip my badges (maybe one or two other body bits also). anybody know if that place in hoppers crossing still stock it?

9. any other tips you may have would be very welcome.

cheers guys

[Jamesa2z]

Hey mate! Thought I'd throw in my 2 cents on a couple of your questions...

1. Only ideas are that you may have put it to 'Acc' rather than "Off"? Aside from this, not too sure...

2. I had a few problems grabbing third as well. Admittedly, this was mostly during more spirited driving for me, but on the occasional sedate drive around as well. For the most part, I think it's just scaling the learning curve. I personally have noticed an improvement in spirited shifting to 3rd since having a rear engine mount installed too.

3. For the OEM tyres I think the placard says 32 psi on the front and (I think??) 29 on the rear? Correct me if I'm wrong. I was having some issues with my tyres early on and I was told by Bob Jane that 32psi is too low for these tyres and to keep them at around the 36-38 mark. Each to their own on that one I suppose!

4. I usually let the car warm up for a minute or two before moving off - general guideline for myself is when the revs are just at or below 1,000rpm - then driving lightly until the blue light is off and even a few minutes thereafter whilst everything gets up to temp.

5. Mine never feels 'very easy to unscrew' per se. Maybe you just don't know your own strength? There isn't a clicking sound on my fuel cap when closing, but you should definitely feel resistance when tightening it up.

6. No way to have cruise on by default that I'm aware?

7. Can't help with seat covers as I don't have any. @LittleredMPS ??

8. Not sure sorry.

A lot of that was just my experience with it all, but others may have some other info as well.

Hope that helps!

[imaspy]

that's awesome, thanks for your input

yeah the advanced key thing is bugging me the most. hoping someone knows exactly what i'm banging on about!

[dazza]

Yes the place in hoppers crossing still stock plastidip.

[imaspy]

Yes the place in hoppers crossing still stock plastidip.

chicken dinner, thanks mate! gonna go order some now!

[SMOKEY]

1. Can't help you on this one - i only have a Gen 1 - but perhaps its something to do with the perimeter, the car thinking you're outside the car and have left the key inside?


2. Shouldn't really have too much issue here. From an alignment perspective, 3rd and 4th should be easiest to slot as it's closer to 'home' on the H-pattern. However as has been said, a rear engine mount will make life so much nicer - and beyond that a short shift plate and counter weight coupled with some nice gearbox fluid. I just put Castrol Syntrans in mine over the weekend and it changed it from being like shifting a stick in a bucket of gravel to being a hot knife in butter.


3. 32psi too low, i agree. I run mine at 38psi. For two reasons - a) it makes the tyre and wheels a little less susceptible to pothole damage which is an issue in Melbourne and b) the higher pressure curves the center of the tyre ou a bit and helps even out the wear pattern as these things tend to wear the inner shoulders more heavily.

4. Modern day oils mean warming up is a thing of the past. It just wastes time and fuel. I generally turn the key, wait for the cold start idle to drop, then take off. I don't give it any boost until the thermostat has opened up though (in your case, the light says 'warm').

5. Mine you can screw it on till it clicks, but after that it free spins. Still haven't worked out where to put the cap while i refuel though.....

6. Gen 1 cruise stays on between trips or until you turn it 'off'. Light on dash is orange till you set it then it turns green - otherwise it's just orange always unless you specifically press the 'off' button....might be something you can get programmed from the dealer next time you're there?

7. despite seat cover being ugly, just make sure you get ones that have reliefs for the side airbags. Could save your life, and your insurance.

8. Slixx didn't have much luck plasti dipping his badges. Seemed to chip off again. I tried painting mine. Same result. Do your research here or you'll end up doing the job again!

[allo80]

Hi Smokey, just to side track the thread for a tick, how hard was replacing the tranny fluid? I'd be very interested in this as for me shifter feels is an important part of the overall driving experience.

Hi Imaspy, in terms of question 2 I felt that the selection of gears moving across the H gate (changing from 2 to 3, or 4 t 5) was vague and somewhat difficult when i got the MPS. I found the shifter bushings mod helped in removing the vague feel, and since the mod I have not missed as many snappy 2 to 3 changes. A lot of companies do the shifter bushings (Corksport, Sure motor sports, James Barone Racing, 2XS racing...etc etc). I went the Corksport option and was happy with the better feel across the gate. I also installed the short shift plate which helped with feel (set at 35% reduction). I'm now very interested in learning about Smokeys efforts with changing the transmission fluid.

[Caffeine Fiend]

1. As above, sounds like it's inadvertently going into ACC. Are you pressing and holding the button? You should only need to press it momentarily (jab it) when starting or stopping
2. These are a triple syncro gearbox to cope with the torque of the engine, so they don't shift incredibly quickly. You can get it fairly smooth though with practice. Also an aftermarket Rear Engine Mount (Sure, cpe, etcetera) can assist in smoother shifting
3. I inflate to 38psi
4. I normally idle till the light goes off and then drive lightly for the next 5 mins or so
5. Haven't really noticed
6. Not that I'm aware. I've not owned a car where you could leave the cruise control on and it would stay on.
7. Not really, though they're pretty hard-wearing fabrics and leather. Don't know whether you'd really need them?

[imaspy]

hey smokey, thanks for the input... some comments

1. don't think it's that. i also just remembered that the Key ! light sometimes stays on on the dashboard, even though i just fitted a new battery in the fob, if that helps anyone else

2. rear engine mounts seem to be popping up quite a bit. what am i likely to be up for to get something like that done?

3. yeah most wheel and tire places say to run them higher than the placard. generally speaking, manufacturer settings are lower to ensure a softer ride, whereas higher psi should give me as you say, more even wear, and typically slightly better economy. might try 36 and see how that feels.

4. seems to be the done thing then - wait for the revs to drop, and be kiund until the blue light buggers off

6. bugger. should have gotten a gen I then! heheh

7. yeah, remembered that when i was at repco yesterday.

8. interesting. the many many videos on youtube made it look pretty easy and reliable?

caffeine fiend, thanks mate.

1. i've checked and double checked it wasn't going to ACC, cos yeah as the manual says, that's when it will crack the shits. but no, car is definitely 'off', and i do jab (not push and hold like a hair dryer lol) when i turn it off. that's why i'm so confused.
2. understood also, ditto on my comment 2 above.
3. cool
4. cool
5. :P
6. my previous car (mitsu 380) did remember that cruise was available after on/off, as does my old man's 2002 crv - guess it must just be a manufacturer thing. annoying.
7. just to be sure i guess?

---------- Post added at 04:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:30 PM ----------

also, fwiw i will document when i do my badges with plastidip and post here for posterity (if it helps)

[SMOKEY]

Hi Smokey, just to side track the thread for a tick, how hard was replacing the tranny fluid? I'd be very interested in this as for me shifter feels is an important part of the overall driving experience.

Sorry to go off topiv, bot for @all080 The fluid change is very easy if you're comfortable getting in the bay and under the car.


Parts you need:
- Length of hose (20mm clear plastic from Bunnings $5)
- 20mm to 15mm right angle hose fitting (like from a watering system) $0.89.)
- 2.5L of your chose fluid. From all the reading I did, Castrol Syntrans for a Gen 1 (about $90 for 3L) or Castrol VMX-80 for Gen 2 ($?). Subject to opinion of course!
- 24mm socket
- Drain pan
- An hour of your time


Basically goes:
1. Remove airbox and induction hose.
2. Jack up car, remove front passenger wheel.
3. Drain pain underneath, 24 mm socket, remove plug - let it drain.
4. Remove fill plug.
5. Replace drain plug
6. Pop hose with right angle fitting into the fill hole, drain 2.5L of fluid in.
7. Replace fill plug, Air intake system, drive it gently for 50km or so and then it should be magic!

[SlowMPS]

Ill respond to ya about plastidip badges. Bought mine from Caswell last september.

I did both front and back mazda emblems, rear MPS and Mazda ones and its been more than 9 months and ive had no issue with peeling, chipping or cracking. Instructions wise, I pretty much followed that dude with the blue 370z on youtube. i did about 4 coats with 20min gaps between each coat

[imaspy]

awesome, thanks sabrelli. i was thinking about doing the bonnet scoop as well i might go and shoop some photos to see if it's too much or not.

[slixx]

Welcome mate. PM anytime

1. Not sure would have to see what is happening. Maybe a dealership could look at it

2. Before I purchased my GenII I test drive few GenIs and they are easier to drive. It took me 2 months to really be able to drive it smoothly. I know a new REM helps so ive purchased (not installed) SURE REM, Shortcut, Counterweight, Anchors and the AGS heavy gear knob to sort this out

3. I have Pirelli PZero Rosso's in my car and they are at 36psi

4. I usually let mine run for 3-4mins before driving which doesn't get rid of the light, but I generally drive fairly smoothy and easy before the light turns off

5. When mine is tight it clicks. Maybe another dealership thing they can look at coz I'm not sure

6. Most car I have driven with Cruise Control are setup like this

7. Not sure, I ride bareback

8. They do. Caswell Australia
They are Pros and Cons as I have done my badges with Plasti Dip
See my thread http://www.ozmpsclub.com/forum/showpost.php?p=222162
http://www.ozmpsclub.com/forum/showpost.php?p=222819
http://www.ozmpsclub.com/forum/showpost.php?p=222891

I gave up and ended up painting them
http://www.ozmpsclub.com/forum/showpost.php?p=223713

9. Moarrrrrrrrrr Low!!!


Peter "SLIXX"

[imaspy]

Hey all... bit of an update on the key issue.

Not saying this is definitely the cause, but I've noticed that when it plays up, my phone is on its dock. It did it again last night... I took the phone off the dock, it behaved again.

I know the manual says mobiles can interfere with the signals of the advanced key, but the issue hasn't occurred when the phone hasn't been plugged in, which is why I'm saying this idea isn't conclusive. Gonna test it out today

[imaspy]

well i'll be buggered. issue successfully reproduced - phone on dock (which is then plugged into cig. lighter) makes the car crack the shits. amazing. anybody else want to see if it's the same for them??

[Caffeine Fiend]

What brand/model dock are you using? Tried the Cig lighter port in the center console under the arm rest to see if it does the same thing?

[imaspy]

Its a genuine car dock for a motorola ATRIX. Gonna try a couple other random chargers to see if that affects things or not....

[KiwiSX]

The only time that the car should complain is if -
1. The door is still ajar, then it will beep six times
2. Or as we found when we first got our MPS and the dealer left the spare key in the glove box and the car beeped 10 times. It was trying to tell us that we were trying to lock the keys in the car!

[slixx]

2. Or as we found when we first got our MPS and the dealer left the spare key in the glove box and the car beeped 10 times. It was trying to tell us that we were trying to lock the keys in the car!

OMG Yes!!!
Hahaha it took me 10mins to find out what the hell it was doing!!

Also if the car is started and running and you get out with the key fob and close the door, it will also cry!




Peter "SLIXX"

[MissJody]

well i'll be buggered. issue successfully reproduced - phone on dock (which is then plugged into cig. lighter) makes the car crack the shits. amazing. anybody else want to see if it's the same for them??

I posted about this last year. If my phone is on charge in the car and my keys are near it then the advanced key not found light comes on. I have to move the keys and restart the car. I spoke to Mazda and they said it was to be expected as the radio frequency is interfering with the key thingy. So I now just make sure keys and phone are not near each other at all. Can happen when phone is in use near the key also.


Sent from somewhere in this big wide world....