User Tag List

Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 41 to 47 of 47

Thread: How To - Coolant bypass

  1. #41

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by shaneski View Post
    Sounds like the best way to do it
    Agreed with you here, as long as it'll reach. Prob end up with a neater job though more time spent to do it. I intend on doing it myself soon
    --> 2008 Metro Grey Sports Pack Gen1 <--

    CS SRI ll CS TIP ll CS AB ll 2XS SSP ll 2XS FMIC ll SURE Anchors ll Enkei RPF1's 17x9 +45 ll Lamin-X Fog Tint ll DBA T3 4000 series ll Remsa pads ll Braided lines
    CP-E S2 RMM ll Hankook RS3 235/40/17 ll Forge V1 BPV ll Whiteline RSB ll AutoTech HPFP
    ll Spin-on Conversion ll Rear Diffuser
    DGR Coilovers ll LED Replacement lights ll "08-MPS" plates ll Cobb AP V3 (E85) ll CP-e TBE ll OCC






  2. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by lovecolt View Post
    Except it's quite labor intensive to do that. I can't even see where the hose ends, let alone joining it at the inner ends. Would imagine requires taking the whole intake to TIP (which also means battery and ecu out) out to reach it.....

    So, rather spend the extra $10 to make it a much easier operation IMO.
    Just had a look at mine, i would have to take airbox and most of the intake off..even with that off i am sure when Mazda put this car together they did things to piss me off, every clamp is pointed in a way where you can't get to undo them with out pulling half the engine apart lol FML..take my comment back the barb peice seems way easier ( may have to remove intercooler)
    MPS Gen 2 2012 - i think i have Ebola

  3. #43

    Default

    The least amount of ugly hoses in my engine bay the better. Just a random question i've just moved from northern qld to Tas. Has anybody in Vic or Tas done this and if so did you have any issues in winter at all ?
    Cheers

  4. #44
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    9,459

    Default

    In Canberra, no issues
    Never started car below 0 tho... Fair few days of 2-4 deg...

  5. #45

    Default

    No issues here in melb

    Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

  6. Default

    Same, no issues in Melb.

  7. #47

    Default

    I'll bet that intake air is whistling so fast through that short, stubby throttle-body there isn't enough time for the residual heat from the TB to transfer via the metal:air interface to make one gnat's dick worth of temperature change that anyone could measure with normal gear available.

    One could in fact argue the converse, that while the existing arrangement is a very inefficient radiator serving to keep the engine coolant temperature down, it's more useful purpose is maintaining temperature commonality in an ancillary component, especially in cold conditions and even more-so at start-up, where the object is to get engine temps to normal operation levels as fast as possible for reasons of efficiency and pollution control. Further, given the isolation of the TB from the block, rapid standardizing of temperatures across that isolator will reduce the effects of differential expansion and hence stress on mounting bolts and the mounting interface.

    Like the other hoary recommended mod about "TB earth-wires", this looks like a solution looking for a problem and that driver reports of "improved/cooler temperatures" are no more than a mechanical placebo effect.
    Last edited by Doug_MPS6; 10-01-2014 at 11:37 AM.
    CP_e Standback & PNP; CP_e 3" SS Downpipe; Corksport FMIC with Top-mount K&N filter & OEM Ram CAI; Turbosmart BOV; Dashhawk; Prosport Boost Guage; JBR solid shift bushes; DBA 4000 Wiper-Slot front rotors; Hawk Ferro-Carbon HPS Street front brake pads (@ 69,000km); Sumitomo HTRZIII's in 225/45 x 18

Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •