Diagnose My Datalog - Cutting in 4th @ WOT

[naasif]

Swapped stock BOV back and it is a little better, or so I thought this morning. back to missing...

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More logs, last one is getting up to speed then WOT after 2k in 5th..

Help?

I'm no expert but the STFTs look very much out of wack. I'm looking at datalog9.csv time 4.2 - 6.78. Just normal acceleration, low revs and just comparing to my normal driving datalogs.

Isn't that an indication of some kind of air leak somewhere that isn't being metered hence the addition of fuel to keep the AFR happy ?

Has Braden had a look at these logs on the COBB forums yet ?

[Jmac]

He has, but doesnt see anything wrong with them.. im at a loss.

[naasif]

He has, but doesnt see anything wrong with them.. im at a loss.

Maybe O2 sensors ?

They directly affect STFT from what I've read.

[Jrbris]

so for a stage 2 tune, your not hitting boost targets of 19 psi, or if you do hit 19 psi it's only brief and coming back down to 17 psi.i would be looking at boost leaks for sure. As boost air temps are good and fuel pressure is good. waste gate duty cycle does go a bit over the place and so do you ltft and stft are a bit high.

gap itv22's at .26 tar, if anything I would go colder plugs as your in a colder climate. but in saying that i was fine using stock plugs on the alpha testing. only time i hit boost cut on the alpha test was the first tune i hit 22.5 psi and boost cut at 80, not a fun feeling at all.

i would also clean the maf.

or the other thing is your boost solenoid may be playing up not sure if you can test them.

[Jmac]

Thanks John, I checked for boost leaks last weekend and basically pulled it all apart to no avail.
I actually created one in the process that I fixed on the way home .
Why would the STFT and LTFT and the WG DC be so out of whack?

[Jrbris]

Thanks John, I checked for boost leaks last weekend and basically pulled it all apart to no avail.
I actually created one in the process that I fixed on the way home .
Why would the STFT and LTFT and the WG DC be so out of whack?

i think that could be boost solenoid the wast gate opening and closing as pressure is fluxuating. on alpha i had ltft's and stft going nuts and braden said to look at plugs on the maps before release. i think the question is does anyone have a spare solenoid to test the theory..

---------- Post added at 09:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:10 PM ----------

i think that could be boost solenoid the wast gate opening and closing as pressure is fluxuating. on alpha i had ltft's and stft going nuts and braden said to look at plugs on the maps before release. i think the question is does anyone have a spare solenoid to test the theory..

have you changed the stupid hoses off the solenoid ?
it's a bit of a bitch as they are connect to a plastic fitting.

[Jmac]

i think that could be boost solenoid the wast gate opening and closing as pressure is fluxuating. on alpha i had ltft's and stft going nuts and braden said to look at plugs on the maps before release. i think the question is does anyone have a spare solenoid to test the theory..

When you say boost solenoid are you talking boost controller?

[Jrbris]

it's got 2 hoses in it near the egr

[Jmac]

it's got 2 hoses in it near the egr

Yeah, boost controller, ive not changed the hoses before...
*edit* or do you mean the purge solenoid which is mounted on top of the HPFP?

[Jmac]

Mitch mentioned Cam + Crank sensors.
Matt has mentioned purge solenoid
Sam + Jace have mentioned everything.

Hating life. This weekend going to pull everything possible apart and put it back together and then pray.
Any other ideas welcome.

It has been noticed the WG looks funky as well as timing all over the joint, though trying to correlate this to an actual issues is proving difficult.

[Jmac]

Thank you everyone for your help.
99% sure its resolved, looks to be one of the plugs missing a bit of the top electrode.
Replaced all 4 plugs with newly gapped items.

The last set were gapped by an old school mech, the care you need to take with iridium plugs is stupid. I gapped this lot myself - what a PITA it is.
Used this method to gap, the vice was a great idea and made it much simpler.

Iridium Spark Plug Gaping - evolutionm.net

[Bakis]

Great News that its fixed

[naasif]

Thank you everyone for your help.
99% sure its resolved, looks to be one of the plugs missing a bit of the top electrode.
Replaced all 4 plugs with newly gapped items.

The last set were gapped by an old school mech, the care you need to take with iridium plugs is stupid. I gapped this lot myself - what a PITA it is.
Used this method to gap, the vice was a great idea and made it much simpler.

Iridium Spark Plug Gaping - evolutionm.net

Glad you got this resolved. How are the trims now ?

[Jmac]

Glad you got this resolved. How are the trims now ?

Have not recorded any logs, idle trims still like +16.. but while cruising the are almost 0.
It was pissing down today so ill try and log this week.

[naasif]

Have not recorded any logs, idle trims still like +16.. but while cruising the are almost 0.
It was pissing down today so ill try and log this week.

A little off topic - What's the benefit in going a step colder plug ? I've been looking on the forum trying to find reasons to change the plugs ?

[Harry LuvzDrift]

Same question^^^^^

[Jmac]

'Colder' plugs mean they cool off faster (or dispose of heat more efficiently) than the standard plugs. This means they are not as prone to pre-ignition (ignition before spark usually due to excessive heat) as 'hotter' plugs.

If you are running more boost these are recommended due to the increased temperatures.
Along with increasing boost and going one step 'colder' it is also recommended to close the gap (shorten the distance between the top and the ground electrode) with an increase in boost to lower the likelihood of spark blowout.

However, when compression is raised, along with the added power comes added heat. Since spark plugs must remove heat and a modified engine makes more heat, the spark plug must remove more heat. A colder heat range spark plug must be selected and plug gaps should be adjusted smaller to ensure proper ignitability in this denser air/fuel mixture.

Typically, for every 75-100 hp you add, you should go one step colder on the spark plug's heat range. A hotter heat range is not usually recommended except when severe oil or fuel fouling is occurring.

Thats my understanding of it anyway

*edit* should add, going too cold or colder without modifications will put you in a worse position as these are prone to 'fouling' - that is gunking up of the plug. This is because hotter plugs are more likely to burn off any rubbish.

[naasif]

'Colder' plugs mean they cool off faster (or dispose of heat more efficiently) than the standard plugs. This means they are not as prone to pre-ignition (ignition before spark usually due to excessive heat) as 'hotter' plugs.

If you are running more boost these are recommended due to the increased temperatures.
Along with increasing boost and going one step 'colder' it is also recommended to close the gap (shorten the distance between the top and the ground electrode) with an increase in boost to lower the likelihood of spark blowout.



Thats my understanding of it anyway

*edit* should add, going too cold or colder without modifications will put you in a worse position as these are prone to 'fouling' - that is gunking up of the plug. This is because hotter plugs are more likely to burn off any rubbish.

So where in the mod addition cycle are colder plugs recommended ?

[Jmac]

So where in the mod addition cycle are colder plugs recommended ?

Stage 2 Maps. Unless you are missing with a stage 1, though I doubt it.

[MPS2NV]

A vice?