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Thread: Possible Coolant leak over Engine mount or something else?

  1. #1
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    Default Possible Coolant leak over Engine mount or something else?

    Hey all so popped the bonnet the other day to take of front bar and noticed nasty green fluid coming out of what appears to be just below drivers RHD side mount on a rubber mount looks like a split in the seal and has gone all over the place down the engine messy and wont come off. Smells like coolant but I can't tell or see in that area and just have no clue. Can't tell from the pics either...anyone got any advice or idea whats happened and a fix??

    Thanks for your help in advance!



    Last edited by KFuNk; 06-07-2012 at 08:25 AM.
    2XS+ChipTorque=DeathStar

  2. #2

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    Hard to tell from your pics; hoses look OK and if they are, then it might be throwing up from a crook water pump bearing/seal assembly. Have a look at the pulley and belt assembly underneath your photo position. If you taste the fluid on the tip of your tongue and it is sweet then it is glycol coolant. I can't tell from the colour, as there are both green and pink coolants. Wash it off your mount rubber thoroughly or it will degrade it rapidly.

  3. #3

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    Nah that's just engine mount rooted they have a liquid in em I had that liquid all over my engine bay and there's still some there..

  4. #4
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    Looks like you've ruptured your driver's side engine mount. I did this about 6 months ago. A very common thing to do on a Gen1 3 MPS. Leaves a brown muddy-like fluid all over the place. Comes off easily enough with degreaser.

    If this is your issue; search around for replacement ideas. I replaced mine with a JBR side mount and fitted a Sure rear mount at the same time. Lots of options here.

  5. #5

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    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	11521 that's what my car looked like

  6. #6
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    Hey guys thanks for that! Turk thats the same picture as mine basically! Good to know its nothing else serious than that. Yeah smell like dirty muddy coolant. I was contemplating upgrading both drivers and passenger mounts anyway. Great excuse to upgrade! Seems like the aftermarket Sure/cp-e looks the way to go no more if this liquid crap!.

    Thanks for help guys seems more common than I thought!

    Cheers
    Last edited by KFuNk; 06-07-2012 at 03:25 PM.

  7. #7
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    Once replaced, I cleaned the muck off with some BBQ decreaser, a tooth brush and a hose. In 5 minutes it was as good as new.

  8. #8
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    Well keen to get parts. Not sure which one either Sure S3's or cp-e xFlex. Anyone got either? Both look the goods. Only difference I see right now is price!

    Torq S3

    MazdaSPEED3 xFlex
    MazdaSPEED3 xFlex
    2XS+ChipTorque=DeathStar

  9. #9

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    BIG ALERT HERE!! - BBQ degreaser is definitely not the the stuff to use around your engine!! It is based, like oven cleaner, on Caustic Soda (Sodium hydroxide - NaOH). Sodium hydroxide just adores aluminium and related alloys and eats them like there is no tomorrow.

    BTW, your little exercise also evolved hydrogen gas, not that you would have noticed. Believe me, I've generated hydrogen for years by that method. The reaction is 2Al(s)+ 2NaOH(aq)+ 6H2O (l)---->2NaAl(OH)4(aq)+3 H2 (g)

    Just because something says "degreaser" on the can, do not assume that all degreasers achieve their effect the same way. BBQ cleaner uses NoAH in order to saponify all the fats that you didn't eat and left on the BBQ - the saponification turns the non-water-soluble fat to soap which you can then wash off. Engine degreaser relies on the "common solvent" principle, a washable mineral oil, sometimes with a protective oil film residue to prevent subsequent rusting of the degreased steel or iron surfaces, that dissolves your years of caked on engine gunk. Engine degreaser is the stuff to use on mineral oil-based messes, or if it is water based, then use water.

    The best remedy for your mistake is to warm the engine slightly and then flood any likely affected areas of alloy (your entire timing cover area by the look of things, and possibly RH cam cover section, at least) with standard household vinegar and let it stand for 10-15 minutes then wash and wash and wash and wash with plain, fresh, clean warm water and let it dry.

    There are many other mild acids to use that will achieve the same alkali neutralizing effect, but I'm suggesting one that a) won't mess up your engine and b) you can get off the shelf at the shop. Use clear white vinegar, not brown, although it won't matter much.

    Do not use hydrochloric, phosphoric or battery acid! And do not assume that due to the passage of time that it will be "all OK by now". It might be, as I don't know how long it has been sitting there, but the NaOH will stay there in nooks and crannies and eat away at your alloys until it is exhausted by the end of the reaction above and all turned to sodium aluminium hydroxide. Get rid of it!
    Last edited by Doug_MPS6; 06-07-2012 at 11:04 PM.
    CP_e Standback & PNP; CP_e 3" SS Downpipe; Corksport FMIC with Top-mount K&N filter & OEM Ram CAI; Turbosmart BOV; Dashhawk; Prosport Boost Guage; JBR solid shift bushes; DBA 4000 Wiper-Slot front rotors; Hawk Ferro-Carbon HPS Street front brake pads (@ 69,000km); Sumitomo HTRZIII's in 225/45 x 18

  10. #10
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    ^^^ true ahh good old caustic/water/coke bottle BTW dont try it home and i left something out on purpose for all those chem knowledgeable people out there

    ---------- Post added at 11:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:08 PM ----------

    balloon blower up'r

  11. #11

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    A former schoolmate of mine killed himself when a glass coke bottle (the old thick ones) that he had stupidly sealed tight while performing that experiment blew up under extreme pressure and a large shard of glass sliced his carotid artery. He bled to death in a very short time.

    Sometimes education actually helps keep people alive. I had an extensive laboratory at home and used to make a lot of interesting stuff, but I researched it all well before proceeding and took safety seriously. I remain a geochemist today. I squirm when I see the things that people mix "to see what happens" with no idea of the possible consequences.
    CP_e Standback & PNP; CP_e 3" SS Downpipe; Corksport FMIC with Top-mount K&N filter & OEM Ram CAI; Turbosmart BOV; Dashhawk; Prosport Boost Guage; JBR solid shift bushes; DBA 4000 Wiper-Slot front rotors; Hawk Ferro-Carbon HPS Street front brake pads (@ 69,000km); Sumitomo HTRZIII's in 225/45 x 18

  12. #12
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    Thanks for the tips Doug. I'll know better next time. I just followed your tips and have it a precautionary wash down. But it all looks sweet under the bonnet.

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