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Thread: Debris and Fuel Pump Internals...

  1. Default Debris and Fuel Pump Internals...

    DON'T GO TOGETHER!!!

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    If you question your ability to install these, buy an assembled fuel pump. If you opt for fuel pump DIY kit, "CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN"... even the slightest amount of debris, lint, dust will cause fuel pump internals to fail. If you drop them... you have to start over and clean them.

    We have warrantied 4 or 5 sets of fuel pump internals this year that have looked like this. I will be adding a stipulation in the warranty, that if any debris damage is found there will be a surcharge for replacement internals.

    You wouldn't want dirt inside your engine, inside your fuel system... don't let it get inside your brand new $300 part when doing the install.

    Thanks,

    John

  2. #2
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    Aug 2009
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    Makes a case for only selling complete pumps. Or nominate a installer in each capital of australia for installing internals...

  3. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by RedDjinn View Post
    Makes a case for only selling complete pumps. Or nominate a installer in each capital of australia for installing internals...
    Yep, that is why I always recommend complete fuel pumps. I think most people can handle fuel pump internal installs, its just the few that ruin it for everyone.

    Example... asked a guy the other day what he TQ'ed his fuel pump internals to and he said... "they are suppose to be torqued down?". I said, "send me your fuel pump so we can check it out". I got the fuel pump and the nut was torqued over 110 ft lbs (more than double spec.). There are those that should, those that shouldn't and those that just don't have a clue.

    Thanks,

    John

  4. #4
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    i'd love to have a test bench here in vic but i can imagine that it might cost a bit to setup, i triple cleaned mine when i installed chlor free degreaser then scrub then metho soak and scrub then chlor free degreaser rinse then put in a nice clean plastic box to dry

  5. Default

    I have done something on the order of 15 or 18 fuel pump internals (autotechs and kmd) with no failures. Just use proper hygiene,wear nitrile gloves when doing the install. I put two pair on and once the pump is disassembled and cleaned I peel off the first set of gloves and clean the new internals and re-clean the FP with a non-chlorinated electrical contact cleaner, lube with the same oil that you are using in your engine and reassemble. If the car has some km's on it I will inspect the spill valve assembly and clean it as well. There is a great how to on MSF for the spill valve dis-assembly.
    >>>>>>First Amphibious Pu<<<<<<<<

    All mods removed and waiting for a 2013 CWP Tech

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    Atco Raceway: 13.1 @ 109.45mph/1.99 60'

  6. #6
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    I really think the key is clean it good and use oil when assembly.. I did mine and has been no issue (boy was i shitting myself tho while doing it) now thats its done tho peice of piss

  7. Default

    I also clean, the vice, the tools, the exterior of the pump and use lint free rags. Just make believe you have O.C.D.

  8. #8

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    @Axspeed6 also did my internals and he did an amazing job as well! thanks again

  9. Default

    Thanks for all the great input guys, yes.... clean is the key to long fuel pump life.

  10. #10
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    i just did @Jmac fuel pump internals to 3 under my belt now

  11. Default

    Good deal, keep up the good work guys!

  12. Default

    @kritz what lint free rags did you use for cleaning the pump out? I'm kind of paranoid about leaving specs of crap behind in the pump body. What brand of contact contact cleaner did you use out of interest? I prefer to go down a well trodden path when it comes to things like this.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by newmaz View Post
    @kritz what lint free rags did you use for cleaning the pump out? I'm kind of paranoid about leaving specs of crap behind in the pump body. What brand of contact contact cleaner did you use out of interest? I prefer to go down a well trodden path when it comes to things like this.
    A lint free rag is a lint free rag. Same with contact cleaner..

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  14. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by newmaz View Post
    @kritz what lint free rags did you use for cleaning the pump out? I'm kind of paranoid about leaving specs of crap behind in the pump body. What brand of contact contact cleaner did you use out of interest? I prefer to go down a well trodden path when it comes to things like this.
    I use a lint free paper towel made by Marcal, and the contact cleaner I use is made by CRC.
    Last edited by kritz; 23-07-2012 at 07:22 AM.
    >>>>>>First Amphibious Pu<<<<<<<<

    All mods removed and waiting for a 2013 CWP Tech

    CorkSport>> Coilovers with Camber Plates,FSB,RSB,Endlinks,SSP,FMIC (large core), Rear Chassis Brace Set,Front Tower Bar, interior light kit,Racepipe, Catless DP,SPC Camber arms,
    JBR >> Sperical knobage with K.C.R. Mod!,Fully mounted
    Matt D. OCC ,Autotech HPFP
    Volk TE37's 17x8.5 40mm wrapped in Dunlop Star Specs 245/45



    Mason Dixson Raceway: 13.092 @ 107.5 mph/ 1.85 60'
    Atco Raceway: 13.1 @ 109.45mph/1.99 60'

  15. #15
    Join Date
    May 2009
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    CRC cleaner is great , just make sure its the one with no Chlorine.
    Dont overtighten the 3 star bolts on the body to block. Do them up evenly .
    Be careful with the large O ring /seal lube it before install .
    A lttle paranoier is good .

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oldhead View Post
    CRC cleaner is great , just make sure its the one with no Chlorine.
    Dont overtighten the 3 star bolts on the body to block. Do them up evenly .
    Be careful with the large O ring /seal lube it before install .
    A lttle paranoier is good .
    i was beyond paranoid... scared shitless id **** it would be closer
    Many want Power not many hold it long.........

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