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Thread: MPS 6 first mod - undecided/torn

  1. #41
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    trying to work out where that really long bottom piece goes...

  2. #42

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    Looks like it connects to the top outlet of the intercooler.

  3. #43
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    pretty sure that's where it goes :P it kinks out to get around the headlight i think, that's what i can gather from the pictures of it installed on the corksport website anyway, lol

  4. #44
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    I'm confusing about the brown pipes on the left

    Top thread Baz, gives me hope my purchases in September will go just as smoothly.

  5. #45
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    haha, yeah, not sure what's up with the either... my parents found a solid wood table for free on the side of the road and grabbed it... no idea why :P

    lol, wasn't really "my thread" i kinda hijacked it a little to save starting a new one, i installed the Tial, was a tight fit, but got it on there eventually, definitely a noticeable improvement in how well it gets on the boost when changing gears... i'll install the intercooler in maybe a weekend or two's time, the kit was missing one of the couplers for the turbo inlet pipe and the "heli hose" for the Tial was missing, so, i'll have those soon and i can get it installed hopefully on a nice day when i don't have work or anything to go to and can spend the day putting it on cause it'll no doubt take me a whole day to do it, lol, the kit says 6-7 hours for an experienced mechanic... might need to find someone to give me a hand installing it so i don't screw it up somehow, haha

  6. #46
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    this kit is a HUGE pain in the a** to install, haha, the instructions aren't even for a stock standard car... so i missed parts about removing certain brackets and whatnot because they should have been removed when you installed a cold air intake of some kind -_- never the less, it's taken me a whole afternoon (11 am - 6:30 pm) plus this morning starting at about 9 am and it's still not done (12 pm now)... the results better be worth it though, i thought it'd be pretty straight forward, but aligning the pipes and even getting the pipes into the car took most of the time... i'm not trying to complain, haha, it's been pretty frustrating though... but sleeping and resuming work helped a lot

    when it's on and working i'll let you guys know how it goes :P some progress piccies


  7. #47
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    Got a helper? Know with my fmic install it made it a heap easier having an extra pair of hands

  8. #48
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    that looks like a complete pain in the ass im glad my HDI fmic install wasn't that bad, i wish you the best of luck

  9. #49
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    i did have an extra set of hands from about 4 pm onwards when my little brother got home... he decided it was a good idea to disconnect my BPV and lost the O ring -_- i managed to find it somewhere in the engine bay this morning though, so all was good, using the factory bolts for the BPV install on the new pipe was a pain... had to find a nut that fit the bolts cause they didn't supply any bolts or nuts to fit their pipe... bit of a pain... but after a lot of time moving everything and making sure all the clamps are on tight, a couple of troubleshoots (turbo wasn't connected properly to the pipe, pain in the ass to fix that, alot of removing and installing the battery cause i don't have jumper leads, lol) but i eventually got it working, the front bumper was a massive pain to get back on... such a tight fit... it starts a little rough when it's cold, but after that it's fine, probably just needs a tune...

    biggest problem i have now is the bonnet won't close... it's either the latch itself, or i have clearance issues... it seems to be worse with the air box cover on, but won't close with it off... i've tried pushing the intercooler pipe as low down as possible, but that doesn't resolve anything... i can't even force the bonnet down :/ any ideas?

  10. #50
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    removed the shroud from the tmic seal?

    ---------- Post added at 04:24 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:23 PM ----------

    think @Doug_MPS6 has a corksport set up as well, he might be able to shed some light?

    ---------- Post added at 04:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:24 PM ----------

    can you see where it's being stopped from closing?

  11. #51

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    How sneaky is the pipe going under the headlight. Good luck mate! Make sure to tighten those t bolt clamps well

  12. #52
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    haven't tried that yet... i reckon it's either that, or the intercooler pipe is still slightly too high... i'll remove the pipe and see if it closes, if it does, i'll find a way to shorten the coupler so it sits lower

  13. #53

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    The CS setup isn't that hard to install but requires patience. Too many people dive into these jobs without laying out all the stuff abnd being systematic and taking their time and expect it all to hang together in 5 minutes or 5 hours. You should at the very least allow a good day if you have all the bits.

    I had one piece missing from my kit, the TIP. The TB intake pipe was also a stupid design with a taper at one end where the joiner hose is supposed to link it to the TB - you can't properlty clamp a hose to a taper. I cut it off and welded a straight end on and bought a new steepd silicone hose to match the two different diameters - I had to sub that job out as I don't have a TIG welder.

    Biggest issues is fitting the IC inlet and outlet pipes through the small body hole where the old air-filter/resonator assembly once sat.

    You also need to find a new Bypass hose to link the BOV and the TIP, to suit your particular BOV position and outlet diameter.

    It is important to remember that the kit is for US bumpers bars and does not quite fit ours without some minor tweaks. Lots of little things.

    I could significantly rewrite the instruction book too, but I won't be doing that.
    CP_e Standback & PNP; CP_e 3" SS Downpipe; Corksport FMIC with Top-mount K&N filter & OEM Ram CAI; Turbosmart BOV; Dashhawk; Prosport Boost Guage; JBR solid shift bushes; DBA 4000 Wiper-Slot front rotors; Hawk Ferro-Carbon HPS Street front brake pads (@ 69,000km); Sumitomo HTRZIII's in 225/45 x 18

  14. #54
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    yeah, i'd been thinking about it for a good two weeks how i was gonna go about doing it, thought i'd figured it out and went for it, i knew i'd need at least a day, i might have cut myself short a few hours, but it got done eventually, i knew it'd take a while, i just didn't realise how hard it would actually be to get the pipes to maneuverer around each other to get from the engine bay to the intercooler, that was probably the most time consuming part

    i agree with you on the throttle body pipe, that was just plain stupid for it to flange like that so you can't clamp it properly, the only piece i had missing from my kit was the coupler for the turbo and TIP, i found out the stock hose fits, albeit it took a bit of effort to get it to sit right, and that worked out pretty well, the only advantage i can see with the coupler would be more pipe to play with for an easier fit...

    agreed, like i said, that was probably the most time consuming... my pipes now have scratches all over them from trying to get it to fit, not that it bothers me too much, not like i'm building a show car or anything

    the stock hose fit mine pretty well, it was a tight fit for the Tial BPV (it was meant to come with it's own hose, MPS garage said they'd send it out and the missing coupler... dunno what's happening there, been over a week now) but i got the hose on without too much drama, what i did need to find was a longer hose to go from the top of the BPV to the other end because it wasn't nearly long enough at all (only cost $3 from Sprint Auto)

    haha, i noticed, getting the bumper back on was a pain, but i managed it, it bulges slightly, but it's not noticeable and fits pretty well

    only issue was this morning getting the bonnet to close, the intercooler pipe was definitely too high, just had to push it into the pipe a bit further to sit it lower, so, no issue there, but something else wasn't clearing, i'm not entirely sure what, i think it's the rubber seal hitting the cover (i sprinkled flour on the plastic to see what hit what when it closed and the rubber seal seemed to be the culprit, probably because i think the airbox sits slightly out of line from the stock intercooler now) i debated taking it off, but wasn't sure because i thought that it could be pretty important, i eventually found out that just dropping the bonnet from maybe half a foot up makes it close, so, hopefully no more issues... it's on, it's all back together and it works, i'm happy, haha

  15. #55
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    so... did you buy from MPS garage or direct from corksport?

    glad to hear you got it all working and running well, even with the bit of fiddling/stuffing around you had to do
    funky looking install, pipes wise... hope you're enjoying driving the car around

    ---------- Post added at 01:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:38 PM ----------

    ah, just saw it was bought from @mpsgarage...

    strange you had so many fitment issues...
    Quote Originally Posted by mpsgarage View Post
    That is why we test fit every product first before its up loaded. Even when some people don't want to think that our prices refect on the items. we at least check & make the changes for the Australia Market.
    This is why we have so many of you guys asking about the products, after you buy it from the USA!
    Last edited by SarcasticOne; 17-08-2012 at 01:03 PM.
    Newbie FAQ My Build Thread
    From stock, to GT3071, to substantially less modded, many lessons learned!
    3" HTP | 100 Cel DP | Autotech HPFP | AP V3 - Self Tuned on E20 | JBR RSB | CPE S2 REM | JBR Shifter Bushings

  16. #56

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    The bumper will sit proud of the bottom of the headlight flashing if you don't strip off one of the headlight washer fixtures - I foregt if it is inner or outer but I can check if you wish. I cut the washer hose fitting bayonet and fitting base bottom neatly off dead flush with the inside of the bumper, blocked up the hose and then araldited the outer back into the hole and it looks perfect and the bumper sits correctly. If you demod you can easily put it back to OEM status. But it is that little sod that makes all your fitting and dremel cutting around the headlight support lacework a pain. I also found it easier to make another neat and carefully bevelled and smoothed cut and put a new silicone joiner in the long top pipe so you can rotate it in its silcone sockets at that joint and that makes fitting the pipe under the headlight a lot easier, due tio differences in bumper design between countries.
    Cheers.
    Last edited by Doug_MPS6; 17-08-2012 at 01:05 PM.
    CP_e Standback & PNP; CP_e 3" SS Downpipe; Corksport FMIC with Top-mount K&N filter & OEM Ram CAI; Turbosmart BOV; Dashhawk; Prosport Boost Guage; JBR solid shift bushes; DBA 4000 Wiper-Slot front rotors; Hawk Ferro-Carbon HPS Street front brake pads (@ 69,000km); Sumitomo HTRZIII's in 225/45 x 18

  17. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug_MPS6 View Post
    The CS setup isn't that hard to install but requires patience. Too many people dive into these jobs without laying out all the stuff abnd being systematic and taking their time and expect it all to hang together in 5 minutes or 5 hours. You should at the very least allow a good day if you have all the bits.

    I had one piece missing from my kit, the TIP. The TB intake pipe was also a stupid design with a taper at one end where the joiner hose is supposed to link it to the TB - you can't properlty clamp a hose to a taper. I cut it off and welded a straight end on and bought a new steepd silicone hose to match the two different diameters - I had to sub that job out as I don't have a TIG welder.

    Biggest issues is fitting the IC inlet and outlet pipes through the small body hole where the old air-filter/resonator assembly once sat.

    You also need to find a new Bypass hose to link the BOV and the TIP, to suit your particular BOV position and outlet diameter.

    It is important to remember that the kit is for US bumpers bars and does not quite fit ours without some minor tweaks. Lots of little things.

    I could significantly rewrite the instruction book too, but I won't be doing that.
    Quote Originally Posted by Baz View Post
    yeah, i'd been thinking about it for a good two weeks how i was gonna go about doing it, thought i'd figured it out and went for it, i knew i'd need at least a day, i might have cut myself short a few hours, but it got done eventually, i knew it'd take a while, i just didn't realise how hard it would actually be to get the pipes to maneuverer around each other to get from the engine bay to the intercooler, that was probably the most time consuming part

    i agree with you on the throttle body pipe, that was just plain stupid for it to flange like that so you can't clamp it properly, the only piece i had missing from my kit was the coupler for the turbo and TIP, i found out the stock hose fits, albeit it took a bit of effort to get it to sit right, and that worked out pretty well, the only advantage i can see with the coupler would be more pipe to play with for an easier fit...

    agreed, like i said, that was probably the most time consuming... my pipes now have scratches all over them from trying to get it to fit, not that it bothers me too much, not like i'm building a show car or anything

    the stock hose fit mine pretty well, it was a tight fit for the Tial BPV (it was meant to come with it's own hose, MPS garage said they'd send it out and the missing coupler... dunno what's happening there, been over a week now) but i got the hose on without too much drama, what i did need to find was a longer hose to go from the top of the BPV to the other end because it wasn't nearly long enough at all (only cost $3 from Sprint Auto)

    haha, i noticed, getting the bumper back on was a pain, but i managed it, it bulges slightly, but it's not noticeable and fits pretty well

    only issue was this morning getting the bonnet to close, the intercooler pipe was definitely too high, just had to push it into the pipe a bit further to sit it lower, so, no issue there, but something else wasn't clearing, i'm not entirely sure what, i think it's the rubber seal hitting the cover (i sprinkled flour on the plastic to see what hit what when it closed and the rubber seal seemed to be the culprit, probably because i think the airbox sits slightly out of line from the stock intercooler now) i debated taking it off, but wasn't sure because i thought that it could be pretty important, i eventually found out that just dropping the bonnet from maybe half a foot up makes it close, so, hopefully no more issues... it's on, it's all back together and it works, i'm happy, haha
    Quote Originally Posted by Doug_MPS6 View Post
    The bumper will sit proud of the bottom of the headlight flashing if you don't strip off one of the headlight washer fixtures - I foregt if it is inner or outer but I can check if you wish. I cut the washer hose fitting bayonet and fitting base bottom neatly off dead flush with the inside of the bumper, blocked up the hose and then araldited the outer back into the hole and it looks perfect and the bumper sits correctly. If you demod you can easily put it back to OEM status. But it is that little sod that makes all your fitting and dremel cutting around the headlight support lacework a pain. I also found it easier to make another neat and carefully bevelled and smoothed cut and put a new silicone joiner in the long top pipe so you can rotate it in its silcone sockets at that joint and that makes fitting the pipe under the headlight a lot easier, due tio differences in bumper design between countries.
    Cheers.
    these 3 posts will help anyone else who tries to install the CS FMIC + Ram Air on a 6 greatly
    Newbie FAQ My Build Thread
    From stock, to GT3071, to substantially less modded, many lessons learned!
    3" HTP | 100 Cel DP | Autotech HPFP | AP V3 - Self Tuned on E20 | JBR RSB | CPE S2 REM | JBR Shifter Bushings

  18. #58

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    Thanks guys, but I should add - there's nary a scratch on my plumbing and I didn't tape them up or anything beforehand. I was just super careful and relieved all sharp edges with a dremel when it came to test- and final-fit each component. Since then I have not had to make any adjustments, although I did check & lightly nip up the clamps on the silicone connectors when I had the bumper off to fit other unrelated stuff about 6 months later.

    If anyone is thinking of doing this job with a CS FMIC, best to PM me here with a view to ringing me to discuss and be prepared for a half hour chat with notebook in hand, and with any pre-prepared specific questions if you have any. I'll try and fill the gaps from there. There is a whole lot more than what I have written here today and previously on various threads.

    PS BAZ, I just noticed a comment of yours re having to drop the bonnet. If your bonnet isn't closing properly and you have to drop it to shut it properly, something is out of alignment and may be chafing on your sound deadening or bonnet metal. Either your new airbox is off to one side or your turbo outlet pipe is too high as you note. Did you taper the edge of the airbox black grill flashing (the one with the Mazda badge at the back) to allow that pipe to pass unhindered, or is it shunted off sideways by the pipe and thus not allowing the airscoop seal to fit properly? You can peek under the bonnet with a torch and see what is going on.

    Alternatively, if you don't get the IC centre mount right, you can have your bonnet latch out of alignment and it won't fasten properly. Ditto if your IC inlet pipe is too far forward and forcing the bonnet latch bracket out of proper alignment. This bonnet latch took 1-2 hours to get properly aligned by means of dremeling out bolt holes, lightly reshaping the brackets, adding spacer washers that also strengthen the bracket by applying a doubling surface, and so on.

    As you can see from most of these issues I raise, it is all about gently trial fittng, then relieve or realign, fit again and so on, until nothing is out of whack.
    Last edited by Doug_MPS6; 17-08-2012 at 02:34 PM.
    CP_e Standback & PNP; CP_e 3" SS Downpipe; Corksport FMIC with Top-mount K&N filter & OEM Ram CAI; Turbosmart BOV; Dashhawk; Prosport Boost Guage; JBR solid shift bushes; DBA 4000 Wiper-Slot front rotors; Hawk Ferro-Carbon HPS Street front brake pads (@ 69,000km); Sumitomo HTRZIII's in 225/45 x 18

  19. #59
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    Those who have done a GENII with RAMAIR, I would be very interested.

  20. #60
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    i bought direct from MPS Garage cause they had one in stock, but got it discounted because i went to Corksport and told them it'd be cheaper to buy it direct... for what i paid, i basically got a free BPV for buying it from MPS Garage, lol

    i think it is the washer hoses that stops the bumper sitting just right, i was thinking of that about half an hour ago, i did take out the turbo pipe and that did seem to fix some of the issue, i have since pushed it down and it sits much better, just needed to push it into the stock coupler a bit further, i have cut the airbox cover to accommodate the new pipe, i think the airbox actually sits slightly too far forward so when the cover is on, it doesn't quite fit, i'm not sure, it's really hard to see what's touching what when i close the bonnet, either that or like you said, the bonnet latch is slightly misaligned, i'll try and find more time to properly fix it when it's not so cold and wet, lol

    ---------- Post added at 03:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:29 PM ----------

    short update about the bonnet issue, it seems to have fixed itself, i'm assuming the bonnet latch was just misaligned and leaving it in and going for a drive must have pushed it back into it's original position and settled, i no longer have the issue of closing the bonnet

    overall the install wasn't overly difficult, but like Doug says, it is very time consuming, definitely read the instructions and make sure you know everything you need to remove before installing any pipes, it would save alot of time, i did read the instructions, but i guess when the instructions are based around a car that has an aftermarket air intake and you have a stock one, it can be confusing for someone who's never done a mod like this before and i had to work out how to get the stock air system out by myself, which wasn't difficult if i'm honest, but it did mean i had issues later on, such as removing the original airbox support bracket which i didn't realise had to come out in order for the two pipes to fit properly, i thought it was part of the chassis or something so didn't remove it until later...

    just as a little thing of advice, definitely do this on a weekend off from work, haha, if you get frustrated, like with anything involving something of value and importance to you, just STOP, relax, go inside and have a drink or check facebook or whatever, or if it's late, leave it for the night, come back later and work on it, it really does help, i know on the first day when i tried putting it on, by 5 pm i was pretty frustrated, i wanted it done cause i had to go to work and thought i'd be done by then and i was just rushing it, leaving it and coming back in the morning helped alot, i could take my time again and everything seemed to go alot smoother then, i find it's also helpful to think of a solution to a problem you're having, be it pipes or clearance issues, to think about them AWAY from the car, i'm not sure of the mentality or psychology behind it, but being away from the problem to think about seems to help come up with a better solution to the problem, you tend to think of more ways to solve the problem than if you look at it and think "this goes here, so it should go like this" and it doesn't work and you get all pissed off, stepping away from it and finding something else to do while thinking about it, you might find that "this goes here, so should go like this... BUT i need to remove this other bit so i can fit it and replace it once it's in" and then going back to test your theory and seeing if it works makes more progress than getting angry and trying to force everything... i can say i have a huge amount of patience (ask anyone who knows my ex girlfriend :P ) but i can get frustrated pretty easily when something doesn't work how it should and stepping back and thinking logically instead of with what i can see, seems to help, for me at least
    Last edited by Baz; 17-08-2012 at 04:28 PM.

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