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Thread: GT 3071 : A direct bolt-on

  1. #1

    Default GT 3071 : A direct bolt-on

    Hey guys, just thought I'd let you know there is a mobb in the USA doing a couple of direct replacement turbos to suit the MPS.

    ATP in the states is using GCG Trubos in Sydney as their Aus. supplier. Price is $2560 delivered. You can reuse all your factory manifolds and dump pipes too.

    I'm getting one of these babies.



    GT3071R Bolt On Turbo Kit for Mazdaspeed 3: atpturbo.com
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    Another Mazda 3 MPS - Almost fully bolted - Waiting for a turbo upgrade - The weekend hack.
    Toyota Yaris - Coilovers, rollcage, raceseats, harnesses, 18s - Also waiting for a turbo upgrade.
    2011 AWD Territory - White and Slightly lowered on 22s - The tow car.
    2011 RWD Territory - Black on black and slammed on 22s - The family transporter.

  2. #2

  3. #3

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    Thanks, I asked and no-one knew anything about direct bolton turbos. Oh well. I do now, lol.

  4. #4

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    I would also be careful of the 'direct bolt on' nature of these, as experience from people who have had them fitted in the US show they are anything but. Also unless you're considering porting the IWG, maybe consider welding it and getting a EWG.

  5. #5
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    How is that a direct bolt on! look at the size difference!!


  6. #6

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    Direct bolt on in that it will bolt on to a stock exhaust manifold. The size of the turbo is different so a 3 or 4 intake will be needed, but the connecting parts are the same.

  7. #7
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    I would also suggest a 'direct bolt on' forged rods & piston set to go with the turbo, and a tuning method Xede or standback, otherwise youll be hearing that crunchy grinding metal sound before long.

  8. #8
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    Turbo Australia in Darra also do them...nice and local

    Jim

  9. #9

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    With the forged pistons, there are choices of compression rates. I haven't quite wrapped my head around how compression rates work, anyone able to explain?

  10. #10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Nuliaj View Post
    Direct bolt on in that it will bolt on to a stock exhaust manifold. The size of the turbo is different so a 3 or 4 intake will be needed, but the connecting parts are the same.
    True, mostly after the bolt-on option for the factory exhaust manifold and intercooler connection and oil/water inlet/outlet.

    Quote Originally Posted by MattMPS3 View Post
    I would also suggest a 'direct bolt on' forged rods & piston set to go with the turbo, and a tuning method Xede or standback, otherwise youll be hearing that crunchy grinding metal sound before long.
    I will be getting the XEDE to go along with it too, thanks for the heads up though, but, pistons and rods won't be necessary imediately if its tuned right and I don't run 23psi boost, as they suggest.

    Quote Originally Posted by EQ View Post
    Turbo Australia in Darra also do them...nice and local

    Jim
    Might give them a call, I like the idea of local.

    Quote Originally Posted by Nuliaj View Post
    With the forged pistons, there are choices of compression rates. I haven't quite wrapped my head around how compression rates work, anyone able to explain?
    Not 100%, but,
    Lower compression means you can run more boost and make more power, but in turn you loose so much more low down, whereas a higher compression ratio will create more low down power, but, will hinder the top end perfomance. Then you have to look into timing, fuel etc. to compensate for the different compression ratios. It all becomes very complicated very quickly. If you start changing comp. ratios, you have to be willing to spend the money in getting it working correctly together and tuned just right.

    Hope this helps.
    Achievements
    2009 Jamboree Street Compact Winner
    Aust. Quickest and Fastest MPS
    12.3 seconds @ 111Mph.
    Proven over the Qtr mile

    Another Mazda 3 MPS - Almost fully bolted - Waiting for a turbo upgrade - The weekend hack.
    Toyota Yaris - Coilovers, rollcage, raceseats, harnesses, 18s - Also waiting for a turbo upgrade.
    2011 AWD Territory - White and Slightly lowered on 22s - The tow car.
    2011 RWD Territory - Black on black and slammed on 22s - The family transporter.

  11. #11
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    It will be interesting to see what results you end up with, youll most likely be running less boost with the gt due to the higher airflow rates (cfm) over the k04.

    Compression, is simply how much the air/fuel mix is compressed by the piston rising within the cylinder by compressing the air/fuel mix it creates a more volatile explosion when the spark ignites the mixture forcing the piston down the chamber.

    High compression engines produce a lot more power, because of their ability to compress the mixture into a much more concentrated area, the downside to high compression on everyday cars is it often takes a lot of power to start a high comp motor, so bigger, thirstier starter motors (and batteries) are required, and the biggest drawback is that when the mixture is compressed, fuel has a greater tendency to pre-ignite, or ping from the heat of the engine, meaning the fuel is igniting on the upward stroke of the piston, not at its peak compression point.
    So an early ignition is occuring, forcing the piston down, but the inertia of the engine continues to force the piston up, as you can imagine this puts tremendous strain on pistons & rods.

    Turbo cars are at a greater disadvantage, the reason these motors typically run less compression is because not only is the air fuel mix already hotter when it enters the combustion chamber (thanks to the compression factor & heat from the turbocharger), it is already compressed before the piston starts its stroke, this is also why turbos are almost always required to run higher ocatne fuel to prevent pinging & knocking.

    i.e When an NA engine draws the air/fuel mixture, at the very start of compression the cylinder is at 14.7 psi (1 atmosphere), this is then compressed by a factor of about 10.
    Now in the case of an turbocharged motor at full noise, the mixture is coming in with say an extra 14.7psi, which translates to 29.4 psi (2 atmospheres) starting pressure, this is then typically compressed at a much lower ratio to avoid pinging, the mps is a bit of a rare exception it has a 9.5:1 compression ratio, how does it do this ?.
    Direct injection, this allows the fuel to be injected directly into the combustion chamber, meaning that evaporation takes place directly in the cylinder, the fuel needs energy to evaporate, the energy used in this conversion is heat, so it is effectively cooling the cylinder walls & piston every cycle, cooler cylinders = less chance of pre ignition.


    More info here Compression ratio - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

  12. #12
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    wowzers Matt...that was actually a good read! I usually come across that stuff and get bored with it but that was really interesting...nice work

  13. #13

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    So say you go with a 3071 and get new pistons 8.5:1 or 9.5:1, depending on tuning of course, what would be the likely results?

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    Quote Originally Posted by tricache View Post
    wowzers Matt...that was actually a good read! I usually come across that stuff and get bored with it but that was really interesting...nice work
    Awww, thanks.


    Quote Originally Posted by Nuliaj View Post
    So say you go with a 3071 and get new pistons 8.5:1 or 9.5:1, depending on tuning of course, what would be the likely results?
    They do tend to cancel each other out a bit,
    Lower comp = more available boost
    Higher comp = less availble boost

    Most people will go for lower compression + higher boost as the high compression naturally puts more strain on the rods, this is then further exaggerated by the amount of boost your cramming in there as well, but there are many more factors that need to be considered before you just throw a set of low comp pistons + a big turbo on your motor.
    And because these motors are a very new design I doubt we will see solid answers on the best combinations for some time, a stand alone tuning option will help no end, but they could be a long way off.

    Contrary to belief these motors do NOT have forged rods, personally I wouldnt push the stock rods much past 300 whp, there have been a few rod failures already in the US, even on lower horsepower numbers.

  15. #15

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    I'm assuming if you put the money into the forged pistons, you'd probably also being doing the Pauter forged rods too.

  16. #16
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    One would certainly hope so

  17. #17
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    interested too see how this goes - sourcing local would surely drop down the cost due to high shipping rates from the US! good to see there is local dist here for this.......couple more years then i might head down this path

  18. #18

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    Emailed Turbo Aus @ Darra and they are sourcing it locally (Brisbane rather than Sydney)for me too.

    I am currently weighing up the GT3071 Bolt-on @ $2600 and no need for an exhaust manifold straight away or the GT3071 Std issue exhaust housing @ around $1900, but I have to fabricate a new exhaust manifold and intake for the turbo.

    So, I'll be doing turbo, manifold (if need/have to), SRI, plugs, XEDE (and tune) and new dump/exhaust. Any thing else you can see that I might have missed? Maybe CDFP?

    Don't expect this to happen this weekend though, I'll probably have to have a week off to do it all. Expect it within the month. Nirv has my old exhaust and I miss the sound (and power) so much.

    Troy.
    Achievements
    2009 Jamboree Street Compact Winner
    Aust. Quickest and Fastest MPS
    12.3 seconds @ 111Mph.
    Proven over the Qtr mile

    Another Mazda 3 MPS - Almost fully bolted - Waiting for a turbo upgrade - The weekend hack.
    Toyota Yaris - Coilovers, rollcage, raceseats, harnesses, 18s - Also waiting for a turbo upgrade.
    2011 AWD Territory - White and Slightly lowered on 22s - The tow car.
    2011 RWD Territory - Black on black and slammed on 22s - The family transporter.

  19. #19

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    Before you buy the kit, have a read of this Blown Engine - Mazda6 / Atenza

  20. #20

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    Interesting read, and very recent too, thanks for another heads up, but, ATP list the kit with the bolt size difference, and I was only going to buy the turbo, not the oil and coolant lines. I only wanted the exhaust manifold to be re-used. Anyway, I'll finish reading it tonight. Keep me posted, and I'll keep you posted too.

    Thanks, Troy.

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