Achievements
2009 Jamboree Street Compact Winner
Aust. Quickest and Fastest MPS
12.3 seconds @ 111Mph.
Proven over the Qtr mile
Another Mazda 3 MPS - Almost fully bolted - Waiting for a turbo upgrade - The weekend hack.
Toyota Yaris - Coilovers, rollcage, raceseats, harnesses, 18s - Also waiting for a turbo upgrade.
2011 AWD Territory - White and Slightly lowered on 22s - The tow car.
2011 RWD Territory - Black on black and slammed on 22s - The family transporter.
any pics beside a standard MPS to get an idea of how much bigger it is?
Achievements
2009 Jamboree Street Compact Winner
Aust. Quickest and Fastest MPS
12.3 seconds @ 111Mph.
Proven over the Qtr mile
Another Mazda 3 MPS - Almost fully bolted - Waiting for a turbo upgrade - The weekend hack.
Toyota Yaris - Coilovers, rollcage, raceseats, harnesses, 18s - Also waiting for a turbo upgrade.
2011 AWD Territory - White and Slightly lowered on 22s - The tow car.
2011 RWD Territory - Black on black and slammed on 22s - The family transporter.
and there we have it......just a tad biger
nice turbo it is a bit bigger = 3000-4000rpm extra spool time
Apart from the obvious bolt-on aspects of the turbo itself, has anyone who has fitted one of these, or other similar after-market turbo, found they had much fiddling around to do with the waste-gate, vac and pressure lines, ECU issues or other aspects to get it all fitted tidiliy and running nicely?
Just read back through the whole thread - so how did you go with the warranty issue on the bearing failure, any comments as to why it happened from the manufacturer, and your impressions now with a (assumed) few more kilometres running?? Nice to see you were able to do it all wit the engine out of the car - fiddling around at the back of the motor to get it all looking right and well-engineered would drive you to tears if it was done in situ. Thanks in advance.
Turbo was fixed, debre from storage Not back in car as yet.
If you did go this way I wouldn't suggest stuffing around with motor in the car, not for initial set up of the after market turbo unless you use all new lines and can get hold of a motor to re do oil drain, access isn't great on the 6 in that area, everything else can be done if you just take the time needed
Did you get the 6 kit or the 3 kit? (I know you have a 6 by the way)
When I ordered one, I had the choice. I was told the oil and coolant lines are different. 6 kit is cheaper too.
ATP were aware of what car I had, the lines supplied were not my cup of tea and the differences between what MSC made were noticable both in the quality of line and fittings, $280 bucks wasn't a big outlay for my investment. Having the engine out though is big player. Pretty much the exhaust housing is what played the big part for me. I will get more pic when I put it back together
As for the price... I emailed them and they said that the 3071 would fit my car??? which it did. It wouldn't be possible without the 4" inlet at the minimum.
Dougs car is also a 6 so I would suggest those few things to make it easy for him if he went that way and did fit turbo while engine was in car. Also depends on what other accessories he fits but for now just assuming the conversion was done with stock manifolds and dp.
MPS2NV, Good info, . I think I'd hold off while all my stuff is working fine - then I'd pull the motor, beef up the internals, fuel pump, clutch upgrade and other relevant ancillaries as required, and do the turbo and a revised exhaust manifold at the same time.
You have the cp-e dp, its fits perfect to the turbo I have, had a cs but it wasn't going to work with anything unless you used the stock housings
To easy
Yep. Already noted that one. Thx. :-)
ATP also have ewg exhaust housing for the GT series turbos!
When people have replaced the turbo and have opted to replace the rods and pistons, have they peformed a rebuild of the motor aswell or just replaced them and the gaskets that have been removed???
I ran a 3071 on stock rods/pistons for 2 years, been a year since I went back to stock turbo, still running fine... It's all in the tune
If tuned properly you actually run out of fuel before you start hitting the point of NEEDING new rods/pistons...
Torque is what kills these motors...
Last edited by SarcasticOne; 17-09-2015 at 06:55 AM.
Holy thread revival batman! :P
i think people usually just drop in rods and pistons and replace the gaskets, but @MPS2NV could probably give a better answer.
Haha yeah I searched something about rods and pistons and rebuild all together and this was the only post that came up, and after reading it all thought I would ask the question lol
Not essential to build your bottom end to have all the nice bolt on mods with a suitable tune done by experienced tuners.