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Thread: Sure Largemouth full 3 in intake

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2009
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    Sunshine Coast Qld
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    749

    Default Sure Largemouth full 3 in intake

    About time someone made this item, full 3in from MAF sensor to turbo inlet .
    You can use with SRI or Std oem airbox.
    Does away with one connection joint in the middle of intake ,always near the ECU loom ,which can and has led to rubbing through wires by the clamps.
    Lessens restriction of intake (now full flow one piece) and lessens the chance of unmetered air entering (Less joints)
    Looks like someone at sure products listens to its customers.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    Warranwood, Victoria
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    35
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    Default

    ATP do this (sorta) its in a few extra piece but if you select the right options you can make it a full 3" intake from your SRI or CAI. Also all you need to do is change couplers if you get a larger or smaller turbo... Only down side comparing them is more joints.

  3. #3

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    @Oldhead - can you link us up to some info?

    edit: found it

    http://www.streetunit.com/SURE_Motor...p/sure0111.htm

    all silicon.....not what i was hoping for. I want something that is all metal from MAF to turbo - understand the heat soak issue - but metal intakes sound so awesome.
    Last edited by SMOKEY; 09-05-2012 at 10:01 PM.

  4. #4
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SMOKEY View Post
    @Oldhead - can you link us up to some info?

    edit: found it

    SURE Motorsports BigMouth

    all silicon.....not what i was hoping for. I want something that is all metal from MAF to turbo - understand the heat soak issue - but metal intakes sound so awesome.
    Thanks for linking Smokey ,im a dunce

  5. #5

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    Ive been running the full3aeros for quite a while, not the full 3" to turbo, just the one for the stock sized turbo/maf. Only problem I had was the stock recirc hose was far too long I had to trim it to fit. Not sure if they would've changed it for the bigmouth.

  6. #6

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    The turbo inlet is 2.5 or 2.75" I think. I'm not in a position to check right now. So sooner or later there is a step-down involved. Even the SURE setup, while it looks well done, steps down right at the end, so there is not a lot of gain to be had and in any event I don't think I like the all-silicone idea that much. I'd prefer in in a heavy duty heat-resistant plastic if it had to be non-metal, but polished metal still looks better to me.

    If you really want to get the lazy air through, then you really need a bigger turbo inlet too - a new issue, obviously.

    The CS FMIC kit has a very nicely engineered 3" MAF pipe that steps down to a separate TIP the same diameter as the turbo inlet. See attached pic from my setup...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    CP_e Standback & PNP; CP_e 3" SS Downpipe; Corksport FMIC with Top-mount K&N filter & OEM Ram CAI; Turbosmart BOV; Dashhawk; Prosport Boost Guage; JBR solid shift bushes; DBA 4000 Wiper-Slot front rotors; Hawk Ferro-Carbon HPS Street front brake pads (@ 69,000km); Sumitomo HTRZIII's in 225/45 x 18

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    Default

    Thanks Doug ,always good to hear your views, Agree polished metal always looks the part.
    Curious as to why you dont like the silicone ???. (i know that it is more water permeable than rubber) under pressure ,but air flow is a diff animal.

  8. #8

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    OLDHEAD, to be honest, I think my dislike is purely aesthetic in this case. Black looks a bit bland. However, on closer examination and reading of its construction and reinforcing, the Bigmouth seems well-designed, quite strong and resistant to all sorts of attack and even reasonable chafe.

    That said, I think chafe is easily fixed by assembling stuff right in the first place or putting in chafe strips, as I have. Anyone who has wiring worn through and shorting some other component just hasn't being paying attention to detail and should view the event as a good lesson. To fry your ECU that way is bordering on criminal neglect. Similarly, to have silicone connectors "blow out" is also a failure to attend to detail and correct clamping, especially under the moderate pressure we typically run.

    I guess the Bigmouth might make a good setup for an SRI with a 3" outlet, as long as the arrangement allowed the filter to be as as far forward as possible. This is ignoring any likely cost issues, which I haven't looked at. One advantage of silicone is that it doesn't rattle!! But rattles usually = contact with other parts = chafe - so back to my previous argument.
    CP_e Standback & PNP; CP_e 3" SS Downpipe; Corksport FMIC with Top-mount K&N filter & OEM Ram CAI; Turbosmart BOV; Dashhawk; Prosport Boost Guage; JBR solid shift bushes; DBA 4000 Wiper-Slot front rotors; Hawk Ferro-Carbon HPS Street front brake pads (@ 69,000km); Sumitomo HTRZIII's in 225/45 x 18

  9. #9

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    Hey doug, What are 'chafe strips'? Cloth tape?

    Silicon actually resists heat soak better than metal, but metal sounds better - the air really 'swooshes', whereas the silicon dumbs it down a bit.

    I ordered my corksport in all black everything - I like stealth/factory look.

  10. #10

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    I guess chafe strips can be anything sacrificial. But I prefer rubber insertion. It comes in a range of thicknesses right up to conveyor belt scale. I use 1/16' or 1/8" (3mm) approx. You can see some in the photo above, black strips wrapped around the plumbing near the BOV and retained by two cable ties. It isn't that anything is rubbing at those points, I just see that stuff is running pretty close tolerances and to prevent the possibility of chafe if the engine moves too much wrt the frame, for example, I'll stick a bit in. It doesn't always look so good but I'm all for function and not looks - and not noise either. With tight engine bays and lots of kit in their, chafe is almost inevitable. I'm not all that big on the heat soak story - it exists in traffic but it is more myth that reality when running free. Even silicone or rubber are all sooner or later going to come up to ambient engine bay temps, all else being equal.
    CP_e Standback & PNP; CP_e 3" SS Downpipe; Corksport FMIC with Top-mount K&N filter & OEM Ram CAI; Turbosmart BOV; Dashhawk; Prosport Boost Guage; JBR solid shift bushes; DBA 4000 Wiper-Slot front rotors; Hawk Ferro-Carbon HPS Street front brake pads (@ 69,000km); Sumitomo HTRZIII's in 225/45 x 18

  11. #11

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    The CPe nano SRI had been out for a while now and it's 3" the whole way.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2009
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    Sunshine Coast Qld
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rayd View Post
    The CPe nano SRI had been out for a while now and it's 3" the whole way.
    True it has Rayd ,but the item in question incorporates the TI as a one piece unit (no joins )
    Previous typical SRI & Ti arrangements had a join in a tight fitting area (two T bolts or clamps) with clamping position in very close proximity to wiring loom and ecu.
    Fact also that these engines ,typically have some engine movement .

    ---------- Post added at 07:36 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:31 AM ----------

    [QUOTE=Doug_MPS6;216949]I guess chafe strips can be anything sacrificial. But I prefer rubber insertion. It comes in a range of thicknesses right up to conveyor belt scale. I use 1/16' or 1/8" (3mm) approx.

    To true Doug, im of the same mind (an ounce of caution prevents a disaster) .

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