mazda's engine mount design fail

[MadAussie]

Doesn't have to go off the strut tower you know

[Axspeed6]

i've got my own home made front engine shocker mount thingy helps a lot and 100 duro remade stock trans mount and a remade with 100 duro cp-e rear engine mount gettin the new mounts all in 70 duro to help vibes and with the whole engine kitted it shouldn't need anything more

---------- Post added at 04:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:49 PM ----------

Doesn't have to go off the strut tower you know

mine dont it mounts where the turbine tech unit does

[MadAussie]

So why did you get the CPe rear mount re-made?

[Bakis]

I've heard the Trans mount gives off alot of transmission whine is there, any one that has just put in the side engine mount cause was considering getting new stage 2 CP-E mount, plus 60 duro trans and not sure what i want for the other side mount. I have a three but there all the same i guess (as in the effects that each mount will give).

I have the sure mount and its ok but still to soft 60 duro, previously had the 82duro dogbog mount vibes were shit lol but the feel was awesome. Apparently the new CP-E is almost as good as the dogbone and has same vibes as 60 duro mounts.

[Axspeed6]

So why did you get the CPe rear mount re-made?

it went ka blewy thats why pretty much ripped the rubber right around the metal inner part of the large end and it started free walking, shift thumping everywhere i've done the same the the rubber bushed cp-e diff mount i have to get it remade with polyurethane soon

[MadAussie]

Was that with stock power levels that you tore the mount, or with the turbo done?
I've got the CPe REM on the way currently, and since ordering it, everyones giving me the impression that it's shit

[Axspeed6]

its good for a while, it was after my turbo upgrade it blew tho, when it goes just go get it polyurethaned

[spooon]

OK thus far all my reading has come up with a couple of solutions to the happyfun bouncing engine syndrome.

1. drive like a Nanny... j/ks :P


Runing the full set of AWR mounts seems to be the best way to go to remove most of the movement (assuming 70 duro unless you like NVH)... downside to this is I read mixed reports of turning your car into a giant vibation machine (however if you're talking about putting an ALS on your car then this probably won't bother you... looking at you, MadAussie :P).

There are a few people in the US that are running the Weapon-R dampener in combination with a rear mount (and in a few cases new side mounts too). This seems to give a good mix of movement control and lower NVH compared to the full AWR mounts. I think of it like this; the factory mounts are designed to limit as much NVH as possible, introducing an upgraded rear mount in combination with a dampener will basically help control extreme movement of the motor underload or hardshifting while still allowing the stock mounts to do their intended job, I don't think this will stop your stock mounts from flogging out eventually. I'm not a real fan of the way the Weapon R dampener is mounted, I think there's most likely a better way to do it (which makes me think it might even be worth getting the Ingalls Stiffy from a 3 MPS and just adapting it to the 6)

I've had a dampener on my old camry but that was a DIY one that I scored from a S13 Silva drift car and adapted to suit... It didn't really add much in the way of extra vibes but hey it looked cool!

At this stage I think I'd like to know more about the AWR mounts (i.e. photos of an install, impressions etc) before making a call ether way... but I do know that my side mount is pretty much all but dead and I need to do something very soon (so keen on group buys if anyone else is).

[MadAussie]

Yeah I'm definitely in the same boat with my trans mount, she fooked.

And I drove modified old school skylines with solid drift bushes and coilovers, you lot whinging about vibrations don't even know what vibrations are :P

[spooon]

Was that with stock power levels that you tore the mount, or with the turbo done?
I've got the CPe REM on the way currently, and since ordering it, everyones giving me the impression that it's shit

I've got the CPe on mine and it's not bad the only thing is the vibration at idel with the Aircon on is a little annoying, if I had my money again I probably would have gone the AWR one.


Edit: Vibes bah! My theory is; My car, don't like it, walk. Or buy your own.. :P

[Scaredycrow]

Attachment 10963 Attachment 10964
did this stock ^

Mine was much worse. The entire rubber was disinstgrated and once freed of the force HOLDING IT to the mount the entire thing fell to the ground...

[Doug_MPS6]

Well, sure there might be some design issues, but I also feel that, in some cases, if folks routinely run up the rpm to 4,000+ and then dump the clutch on a launch, then shredded clutches, burst transfer cases, broken diff mounts, broken axles, cracked CV joint balls and torn-off engine mounts are not an unreasonable expectation either.

[Axspeed6]

its is a point but mine eats a standard rear engine mount in a couple of hours not even driving hard but i do have a bigger turbo and a lightweight flywheel so 2.8 - 4000 rpm launches are standard now if you dont it'll stall

[Doug_MPS6]

Yes, I see. I guess I could/should have added "...on worked engines". This suggests that the added-power limitations before requiring strengthening are not just internal. I don't know how many people are shredding engine mounts on stock engines under normal conditions, or how many compared with those who launch often or over-enthusiastically. Finding a novel way of chaining the engine down could be an interesting exercise in itself. I must admit when I let off both my mounts to install my bits and pieces, I was surprised at the asymmetry of the setup. If indeed there are only two mounts and not one on the LH end of the gearbox (and I don't recall seeing one) that does seem a bit light considering that when these were made they were among the most powerful stock 2.3 litre "mass-market" engines around, and the twisting motion induced by the mount asymmetry about the force axes could be seen to contribute to premature mount failure.

[Axspeed6]

when you consider the MPS 3's and 6's are the most powerful mazda ever produced from factory its a bit foolish

[MadAussie]

Well I'm now planning to buy a few goodies in a fortnight (finalised leaving job for a new one, 197 of annual leave paying my way :P ), and I'm thinking of purchasing the AWR mount kit (L + R mounts + REM ) among other things.
So I'll have a CPe mount to play with, and the steel constructed AWR one (Even though the AWR one looks like something off a park sandpit excavator). Just need to stop all the squeaks and rattles from under there, so I'll work out what works best. Has anyone here experimented with the TurbineTech front engine mount?

[Axspeed6]

its a bit more harsh with the vibes the the cp-e unit apparently but is stronger AWR have two types that you can select from im buying the awr mount kit and their endlink kit in a few weeks too as well as the turbine tech front mount it meant to be the bees knees according to a couple of guys on the msf forum and the reviews i've read and the alum skid pan and their rear diff mount

[Doug_MPS6]

From what I said above, this kind of thing looks like the go - the one pictured is for a Mazda 3 and I have no idea if one similar to suit the 6 would even fit in my engine bay - anyone have any more info?

http://www.ozmpsclub.com/forum/handl...ount-mps3.html

[Axspeed6]

the mps 3 one wont fit the 6 but they make one for it as well check out the website Pièces Tuning & Performance Mustang | Turbine Tech

[Axspeed6]

this is my home made front dampener/shocker it works a treat grease filled and with a rubber seal with 4 compression springs