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Thread: MPS 3 RMM broken or on its way out?

  1. Default MPS 3 RMM broken or on its way out?

    Hey guys can u tell me if this is broken or on its way out?
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  2. #2

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    Quote Originally Posted by 0401MPS View Post
    Hey guys can u tell me if this is broken or on its way out?
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    Throw that thing out and get an aftermarket one , she's busted!

  3. #3

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    It's a goner!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    9,459

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    yup, dead...

  5. #5

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    As everyone has said, its just about useless now! Get yourself a CPe one! Also check up on what "duro" you think will be right for you!

    Cheers Lee

  6. Default

    thanks guys yeah got a cpe rmm duro 70..

    but this happened..

    as i was re tightening it i heard a snap, guessin the top part on the subframe crack

    what should i do guys?? keeps tightening but doesnt stop

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  7. #7

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    That doesn't seem too good - did you use a torque wrench when tighetening?

    I would probably take the mount back out and check out whats going on!

  8. #8

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    Did you view the install thread here?
    http://www.ozmpsclub.com/forum/how-t...pressions.html

    The torque tightening, sequence are most important.

    My was installed by my mechanic and he used Loctite and torqued to spec with small seating turn after torquing bolts and I have next to no vibes and has been in for almost 2 years now.

    Take it out and check the subframe mount for a split.
    Last edited by zippymps3; 22-04-2012 at 10:56 AM.
    I'm not crazy about reality, but it's still the only place to get a decent meal.........Groucho Marx

  9. Default

    nope didnt use a torque wrench, thought it be alright if i tightened it slowly until it doesnt tight no more..
    spoke to a few friend mechanics n they said probly have to spot weld it or theyl see what else they can do.
    hopefully not replace the subframe.. big money and big job for a little mistake.. gg

  10. #10

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    Definitely have to use a torque wrench, especially with the REM. I've heard cases of people tightening them too much and have really bad vibrations in the car! They aren't cheap but just buy one next time, I even torque the wheels up to a specific amount so I don't **** the threads on the nuts.

    Did you take the mount out and suss it out? Pictures?

  11. Default

    not yet, had to go work shortly after .. but i do remeber as it was able to keep tightening clockwise that the top peice was moving with it so im assuming the nut attached to the subframe has been broken(welds have cracked cause over tightening)
    yes definetly will purchase a torque wrench for these purposes..
    what torque do u tighenen your wheels at?

  12. #12

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    I've got aftermarket wheel nuts - i can't remember off the top of my head but I have it written down in the car. Hopefully whatever has happened it's an easy fix.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    2,600

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    Wheels I do to 110Nm

    Rear Engine Mount you tighten to about 95.

    ---------- Post added at 06:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:48 PM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by 0401MPS View Post
    not yet, had to go work shortly after .. but i do remeber as it was able to keep tightening clockwise that the top peice was moving with it so im assuming the nut attached to the subframe has been broken(welds have cracked cause over tightening)
    yes definetly will purchase a torque wrench for these purposes..
    what torque do u tighenen your wheels at?
    Chances are you have just broken the nut off the sub frame, it shouldn't be too hard to fix but it will cost a little bit of money.

  14. Default

    yeah i got it fixed. had to get it re threaded, repair cost me about $140. then easily put the duro 70.

    have u guys got the problem that it gets a bit lose and u can hear a clunk or click as you down gear?

    at first it felt fine then the evening i could hear a clonk or click down shifting.

    saw on this forums i could use loctite, would this solve the problem?

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