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Thread: Gtx2867

  1. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SarcasticOne View Post
    For the moment, just pull the connection off the waste gate, that'll limit you to spring pressure (guessing 14psi or there abouts)
    I just wanted to clarify because I think you may have worded this wrong. In order to run spring pressure you need to only have a boost source hooked up to the waste gate. This will allow the waste gate to open when the boost pressure overcomes the spring pressure (14psi). If you leave the waste gate as just unhooked, it will never open and you will have infiniboost. It will be super fast for a minute then zzb... lol

    Also, with a good tune the stock motor is quite capable of holding a good amount of power. 400 is definitely a safe and attainable goal. My personal car which is still on stock block with 165,000km made 386whp and 400wtq in August of 2011 at 26psi on a GTX3071 and remained at that power level for 49,000km. And in August of 2012 I upgraded to a larger turbo and a much more efficient exhaust manifold/exhaust, and have been making 503whp and 443wtq since then for another 8,000km.

    Tuning is the most important part of your build and will dictate how long the motor will last at the power levels you have chosen. This is why so many cars back in the day were blowing up everywhere. There were still a lot of unknowns in the Mazda ECU. A lot of the problems have been resolved since then but we are still learning stuff everyday.

  2. #82
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    Thanks @EdgeAutosport.com the stuff I'm running on there at the moment is from you guys. Thanks for the advice when purchasing!

    Yep, I figured that about the wastegate. I pulled it off and still hit 19psi. I don't actually have a "boost source" connected. The mechanic didn't hook it up. I did say "if you know what you're doing please hook it up for me whilst my car is here" he did, but didn't know what he was doing exactly. So for the moment I have TIP into Wastegate.

    I have collected the part I need for boost source and hope to rig that up on the weekend and run in 3-port mode. Picked up some vac line hose too.

    So for the moment it's still part throttle and keeping under 10psi if possible. Also need to re-check the hose that popped off, considering double clamping too.

    With great power comes great fuel consumption...
    M P S
    - 6 - RR | Cobb AP | CAI | TIP | ATP GTX28R | 3.25" TMIC | SS DP | REM | 3" Zorst | SSP Anchors & Countershift | DBA Rotors | K/Springs | Upper & Lower Bracing | Alpine Type S 12" sub MRP-M500 Amp
    | Grille | STi Lip | Shark Fin | 6000K HID | Fog Light Tint | Twin DEFI gauges | Custom Decals & Badges | LED lighting | CF Mirrors & Pillars | Black rims Red callipers

  3. #83
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    Default

    Oh, whoops, connect from compressor housing to waste gate

  4. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by SarcasticOne View Post
    Oh, whoops, connect from compressor housing to waste gate
    I blew my engine! Haha, nah all good mate. Was no different to over-boosting which is what I was doing anyway.
    Never intended to hit flat to the floor. Without boost source I don't think it's possible to safely rig up to the GTX.
    I'll let you all know how it goes when I get a chance to pull the cooler off again and modify the plumbing.
    This is a great thread for those in the same boat. Grimmspeed instructions seem a bit light-on in reference to a GTX

    With great power comes great fuel consumption...
    M P S
    - 6 - RR | Cobb AP | CAI | TIP | ATP GTX28R | 3.25" TMIC | SS DP | REM | 3" Zorst | SSP Anchors & Countershift | DBA Rotors | K/Springs | Upper & Lower Bracing | Alpine Type S 12" sub MRP-M500 Amp
    | Grille | STi Lip | Shark Fin | 6000K HID | Fog Light Tint | Twin DEFI gauges | Custom Decals & Badges | LED lighting | CF Mirrors & Pillars | Black rims Red callipers

  5. #85
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    Jul 2011
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    Perth
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    Default

    The GTX28 doesn't have a compressor housing vac point, it comes with something you fit into the intercooler hose instead.

    One thing my kit REALLY needs though is a barb connector between the coolant hose that goes onto the braided coolant line (that the kit comes with) and the stock coolant line from the motor.
    The new braided is too long (and different sizes to the one on the motor, so the new hose i got is not going to seal), so I am going to have to hunt for an adaptor barb thing on Friday (got the day off work to finish this sucker) so I can have a sealed coolant system and actually try to start the car.

    Not sure if this piece is meant to come with the kit or if you are meant to do it another way, but it seems to be the easiest solution to the problem...
    1993 KL-ZE 626 - Written off
    2005 MPS6 - Me Boosta, GTX2867 Freektuned

  6. #86
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    Not sure what they did on mine @Fizzy

    Btw, can hear the turbo spooling on engine cold starts. My car whines in the driveway!

  7. #87
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    If I could get the barb thing it would be an easy easy easy fix, not to worry though.

    So jelly, can't wait for that GTX noise

    Quote Originally Posted by rogwick View Post
    Not sure what they did on mine @Fizzy

    Btw, can hear the turbo spooling on engine cold starts. My car whines in the driveway!
    1993 KL-ZE 626 - Written off
    2005 MPS6 - Me Boosta, GTX2867 Freektuned

  8. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Fizzy View Post
    The GTX28 doesn't have a compressor housing vac point, it comes with something you fit into the intercooler hose instead.

    One thing my kit REALLY needs though is a barb connector between the coolant hose that goes onto the braided coolant line (that the kit comes with) and the stock coolant line from the motor.
    The new braided is too long (and different sizes to the one on the motor, so the new hose i got is not going to seal), so I am going to have to hunt for an adaptor barb thing on Friday (got the day off work to finish this sucker) so I can have a sealed coolant system and actually try to start the car.

    Not sure if this piece is meant to come with the kit or if you are meant to do it another way, but it seems to be the easiest solution to the problem...
    Yeah that little length of silicone hose that comes with the kit on the coolant feed line is just a touch too big, but I was able to get mine to seal when I had my GTX3071 by clamping it down extra tight with a small worm gear clamp. I did have a small leak at first but after some extra clamping it sealed up and was fine. You can try getting a slightly smaller ID hose and just forcing it on the coolant feed line. It will be tight but you can do it. Either way you should be able to get it to work.

  9. #89
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    My issue isn't so much getting it to clamp down, it is more the line is actually too short to comfortably reach the coolant point on the motor, not overly keen on putting massive bending force on the line and risk damaging the braiding. I am sure even if I got a bit of pipe (I have some old metal coolant line kicking around from the old car) I could just stick that in line to achieve what I need.

    Quote Originally Posted by EdgeAutosport.com View Post
    Yeah that little length of silicone hose that comes with the kit on the coolant feed line is just a touch too big, but I was able to get mine to seal when I had my GTX3071 by clamping it down extra tight with a small worm gear clamp. I did have a small leak at first but after some extra clamping it sealed up and was fine. You can try getting a slightly smaller ID hose and just forcing it on the coolant feed line. It will be tight but you can do it. Either way you should be able to get it to work.
    1993 KL-ZE 626 - Written off
    2005 MPS6 - Me Boosta, GTX2867 Freektuned

  10. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Fizzy View Post
    My issue isn't so much getting it to clamp down, it is more the line is actually too short to comfortably reach the coolant point on the motor, not overly keen on putting massive bending force on the line and risk damaging the braiding. I am sure even if I got a bit of pipe (I have some old metal coolant line kicking around from the old car) I could just stick that in line to achieve what I need.
    That is strange that it is too short. Do you still have the factory EGR valve installed?

  11. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by EdgeAutosport.com View Post
    That is strange that it is too short. Do you still have the factory EGR valve installed?
    Yeah it was a standard EGR. I have put a new coolant hose on, will find out later this afternoon if it holds pressure or leaks
    1993 KL-ZE 626 - Written off
    2005 MPS6 - Me Boosta, GTX2867 Freektuned

  12. #92

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    I really want this Turbo

  13. #93
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    Go a 3071.

  14. #94

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    Quote Originally Posted by KFuNk View Post
    Go a 3071.
    Too scared

  15. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by chef View Post
    Too scared
    What's there to be scared of. Mine just went in and loving it and even more when it's tuned.

  16. #96
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    Anyone got a dyno graph? I saw VD's on msf. But I was hoping someone here had one.

  17. #97
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  18. #98
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    I don't think that rogwick is at the VD stage (it is a race between me and him currently to see who can get their car finished and tuned first ).

  19. #99
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    Nope, I don't have a dyno graph. I tried out the VD on the cobb just to see what it's about. At the moment I need to re-do a MAF cal. Also running on a conservative load, low boost until I can spent time on making it safe before chasing more power. I did however have a couple of mates in the car and a full boot and WOT down the road, a few swear words came out so I'm guessing she is quick but doesn't feel that quick to me.....yet.

  20. #100

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    Quote Originally Posted by KFuNk View Post
    What's there to be scared of. Mine just went in and loving it and even more when it's tuned.
    Bigger is not always better its how u use it.

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