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Thread: Crazy clicking noise when turning over my 3 MPS - Youtube vid linked

  1. #1

    Default Crazy clicking noise when turning over my 3 MPS - Youtube vid linked

    Hi guys.

    Check out this Youtube vid: Mazda 3 MPS Clicking Noise after trying to start - YouTube

    I made it this morning when I went to start my car (and subsequently couldn't) . Quite a loud clicking noise coming from the covered section next to my battery and the AC coming off/on as well as you'll see.

    Had to disconnect the battery terminal to stop it (Start/Stop button would turn it back off).

    Dealer is collecting the car to look at. Someone mentioned it might be something as simple as the battery itself but I'm not convinced (and neither was the dealer).

    Any ideas?

    Cheers

  2. #2
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    Throttle opening and closing? Dead battery or altermator?

    Have a spare battery or jumper leads?

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  3. #3
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    sounds like your VVT is gone

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by SarcasticOne View Post
    sounds like your VVT is gone
    The cars not kicking over... The rattle at idle is vvt.
    Unless this is something I've not seen before..

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  5. #5
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    The clicking would be a relay.
    Possible short somewhere making it go nuts.

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by bd581 View Post
    The clicking would be a relay.
    Possible short somewhere making it go nuts.
    That's what the dealer suggested it might be.

    It's in at the dealer now and they said they would get back to me tomorrow, I'll post up what they've said.

  7. #7
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    Please let us know

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  8. #8
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    The covered ares near the battery is the ECU, but it should not make sounds like a stuck relay switch. The possible clue could be the AC starting and stopping by itself.??????
    U have got to be a real tech head today ,not a mechanic !!!! Hope it works out and let us all know the cause.thanks

  9. #9

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    Wait, the rattle / knocking at idle is the VVT? I thought that the VVT is only the few seconds of that noise when you first start the car...

  10. #10
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    I had both..
    These motors sound like trucks so don't stress lol

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  11. Default

    Its a flat battery.. Same thing happened to me. Did you get a message on you GPS screen about Please Wait - Loading? Mine looked pretty cool how the instrument cluster did a full sweep - thought it went SUBI on me lol!!

    New battery and all good.
    Last edited by Adriano; 27-03-2012 at 09:21 PM.

  12. #12

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    You're on the money Adriano. But I didn't get 'Please wait' message though.

    Was a flat battery and (apparently) that in combination with a poor battery in the key caused that infinite loop of clicking that I had to disconnect the battery terminal to stop.

    Very strange behaviour for a flat battery, and I've seen tons of cars with flat batteries, both new and old that have never exhibited this kind of thing. But at least it wasn't broken. And it remains to be seen if it occurs again.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by High on PSI View Post
    Wait, the rattle / knocking at idle is the VVT? I thought that the VVT is only the few seconds of that noise when you first start the car...
    That's the loose timing chain issue I believe.

    ---------- Post added at 04:21 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:17 PM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by GoonBong View Post
    You're on the money Adriano. But I didn't get 'Please wait' message though.

    Was a flat battery and (apparently) that in combination with a poor battery in the key caused that infinite loop of clicking that I had to disconnect the battery terminal to stop.

    Very strange behaviour for a flat battery, and I've seen tons of cars with flat batteries, both new and old that have never exhibited this kind of thing. But at least it wasn't broken. And it remains to be seen if it occurs again.
    Heh welcome to your first hysterisis loop my friend!

    In short, a flat batteries open circuit voltage might be relatively healthy but it drops sharply once you place a load on it (ie: try to start it). In this case it's dropped below a point where the electronics all shut down. Relays reset, battery is suddenly unloaded, its voltage rises again and the cycle resets.

  14. Default

    Glad you got it sorted

  15. #15
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    Damned electrickery

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  16. #16

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    Yeah glad it's sorted too.

    Cheers for the replies lads.

  17. #17

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    - First make sure your aircon switch is selected to off. (Any clicking from that is from the RHS anyway, unless it is a relay, but you should always start with aircon off anyway as it reduces the load on the engine when cold).
    - If the noise is coming from the LHS battery box or ECU area it sounds like a relay, or
    - if it is deeper in the bowels of the engine on the LHS it may be a crook/sticking starter solenoid, or
    - a loose battery connection or flat battery that is causing the starter solenoid to make and break. Get someone to look at it and listen carefully while you crank the engine. Place a hand or screwdriver on the starter motor or solenoid body to assist feeling for the vibration that is characteristic of this fault.
    - Make sure the car is not in gear if there is someone standing there!!
    - Examine your battery connections for signs of arcing as that might be a clue. There are a lot of amps running there and if not tight will cause relays and solenoids to make and break erratically, with associated clicking.

    WELL, I STARTED WRITING THIS A WHILE BACK & POSTED IT WITHOUT READING THE LATEST POSTS, BUT I SEE IT'S BEEN FIXED NOW - BUT I'LL LEAVE THIS UP AS A GENERAL COMMENTARY ANYWAY - IT MIGHT BE USEFUL
    Last edited by Doug_MPS6; 29-03-2012 at 10:30 AM.
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  18. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by Reedy View Post
    That's the loose timing chain issue I believe.
    What's the loose timing chain? The VVT is the knocking on the first few seconds of start up then it goes away, Mazda replaced this for me at $900 and it went away, but it didn't really do the job.

    And I thought the rattle / knocking at idle is just our injectors.

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