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Thread: Cobb Access Port FAQ

  1. #1
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    Default Cobb Access Port FAQ

    Ok, hopefully i can answer 99% of questions in this thread, or at the very least, link to the answers

    Firstly, download Access Port Manager http://www.cobbtuning.com/AccessPORT...rt-s/40200.htm
    Then, watch this video: COBB Tuning - MAZDASPEED AccessPORT
    The official Cobb Release notes can be found HERE


    OTS Maps
    1. Where are OTS Maps? MPS3 MPS6 (also extra maps can be found here)
    2. Requirements for each "stage"
    3. Does this void warranty/Can dealers see ive flashed car?
    4. Where's the map for my intake?


    Using your Cobb Access Port
    1. Installing in your car
    2. Monitoring Parameters
    3. Data Logging (and how to do a WOT log)
    4. Reading/Understanding Logs
    5. Changing Maps
    6. Checking/Clearing CEL's
    7. Shift Light
    8. Running E85 ( @Alex Stratified & @COBBTuningDavid)
    9. MAF and MAP sensor


    Access Tuner Race Software
    1. To download ATR go here and fill out the form, download once you've been processed
    2. Setting up ATR, Edit -> Configure Options -> Display -> use Standard units
    3. Setting Flat Foot Shift, Launch control, and idle rpm
    4. MAF Calibration
    Last edited by SarcasticOne; 21-03-2013 at 05:06 PM.
    Newbie FAQ My Build Thread
    From stock, to GT3071, to substantially less modded, many lessons learned!
    3" HTP | 100 Cel DP | Autotech HPFP | AP V3 - Self Tuned on E20 | JBR RSB | CPE S2 REM | JBR Shifter Bushings

  2. #2
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    Default

    Stage 1 Maps
    Stage 1 maps are only designed to work with intakes, (ie SRI or CAI) there is maps available for all branded intakes.
    They also have the option for if you have a Turbo Inlet Pipe/Hose.
    It is also designed to work with the stock fuel pump.
    Map TypeIntakeTIHICHPFP/CDFPDPExhaust
    StockStockStockStockStockStockStock or Cat-back
    IntakeUpgradedStockStockStockStockStock or Cat-back
    Intake+TIHUpgradedUpgradedStockStockStockStock or Cat-back
    Intake+TIH+ICUpgradedUpgradedUpgradedUpgradedStockStock or Cat-back

    Stage 2 Maps
    Stage 2 maps REQUIRE a DP (or at least removal of one cat) to work correctly, as well as an upgraded fuel pump.
    The maps are more aggressive (more boost) and place higher demands on the fuelling system... when fuel pressure drops below 1600psi, bad things start happening with ECU logic, which can result in engine failure.
    Can find list of fuel pumps here
    Map TypeIntakeTIHICHPFP/CDFPDPExhaust
    StockStockStockStockUpgradedUpgradedCat-back
    IntakeUpgradedStockStockUpgradedUpgradedCat-back
    Intake+TIHUpgradedUpgradedStockUpgradedUpgradedCat-back
    Intake+TIH+ICUpgradedUpgradedUpgradedUpgradedUpgradedCat-back

    the maps are designed with a certain mod list in mind, there is nothing stopping you from running whatever map you want with whatever mods you want, but be prepared for it not to work correctly, and possibly cause engine damage/failure.

    Is it safe???
    Well, in theory doing anything to you car is not "safe" per-se. But the OTS tunes have been shown to be reasonably conservative and safe in what they do.

    Someone bent a rod in the states, and this was posted in response:
    I assume you have a gen1 speed 3 or a speed 6. After the engine is replaced get a tune for the car to avoid this in the future. There is an issue with how aggressive the stock calibration is and some cars blow even stock.
    Mazda dealership is saying I need my engine replaced - Mazdaspeed Forums

    So I would suggest it's no less "safe" than stock tune.

    Does this void warranty/Can dealers see ive flashed car?
    If mazda can prove you flashed your ECU, your warrarnty is voided... end of story... however:
    As for the ECU side of things, there is NO black box that can prove you've flashed the car like a GTR does.

    Here are two cases in which they might catch you on:

    1) If you have left a non-stock ROM on there, they can tell. That one is just as simple as reading out specific memory locations.

    2) Number of key cycles/engine turn overs. Every time you reflash the car, those numbers go to 0. 0 is pretty indicative that you've been flashing the car. However, if you put enough start #'s into it, or you state that you've pulled the battery cable to stop it draining (which also resets those counters), then you can prevent that obvious state from being used against you.

    These are the two ways used by the dealership to validate if there has been ECU flashing or not.

    Truthfully though, we have good relations with both Mazdaspeed North America and our local dealership, and they both said the same thing.
    regarding warranty and tuning - Mazdaspeed Forums

    Hey guys and gals, it seems there is some confusion about COBB's OTS maps and what to make of upgrades. Here are a few thoughts:

    1. The stage of the map simply refers to the amount of load, boost, and timing the map will run. The Stage 2 maps will target higher power levels than a Stage 1. So how is that related to the mods list? (read on below ... )

    2. The HPFP: The more airflow that enters the motor, the higher demands for fuel. That airflow increase comes from increased boost. The HPFP is a cam driven pump and it will struggle with 16-17psi or greater on the stock turbo. A larger turbo will push it over the edge at lower boost. If you have a very nice flowing exhaust and intake then you will need an HPFP at even lower boost levels ... and on top of this not everyone's car will behave the same. To take the guess out of this, I suggest you perform a test. Load the map that you will run and do a 4th gear WOT run from 3k RPM to redline on a COLD night. The cold air is denser and will stress the pump further. If you see fuel pressure drop in the 1500-1400 psi range under WOT you know it's time for an upgrade. However there is more to this. If the ECU senses detonation, it will pull timing AND richen the fuel mixture. If this is the case, and the pump is on the edge, then it will bring pressure down quickly.

    So why do you care about pressure? Well, the direct injection system acts against cylinder pressure when injecting the fuel. The lower the pressure in the fuel system the harder it will be to deliver that fuel and the fuel will atomize and mix with the air poorly. If this happens you not only lose performance, but knock can occur which may lead to the dreaded zoom zoom boom. So my suggestion is to buy the upgraded fuel pump for peace of mind, especially if you have exhaust modifications installed.

    3. Now what about other modifications? Well, I will tell you that on the MPS cars the turbo is the largest restriction. So it doesn't take much to "max it out." The biggest bang for the buck in terms of performance will be an HPFP, an intake, a race pipe, step colder plugs, and a custom AP or VersaTuner tune. This will maximize what the stock turbo can do and with high quality fuel and reasonable ambient temperatures you will be close to 300whp (220kw). Having tuned 90+ MPS cars this is what I can recommend for the stock turbo. Remember this is not OTS Stage maps since these are not built for a particular customer car and are more conservative to fit a broad audience. You can see some results in the blog here (
    Quote Originally Posted by Alex Stratified View Post
    Blog : Stratified Automotive Controls)

    In terms of the OTS maps, with an upgraded HPFP you can go ahead and run stage 2 maps. I would only consider the HPFP as the must have modification for running stage 2 ... and in some cases even stage 1.

    A downpipe is nice but I would get a front mount intercooler or methanol injection to cool the charge air before going with a downpipe since the gains from timing are more beneficial. After that I would get the downpipe but the gains start to be diminishing.

    Also if you have access to E85, with a custom tune, it does wonders in small mix quantities like 25%. You can expect the cars to make 320-340whp (235-250kw at the wheels) and 400 ft lbs of torque (540nm at the wheels) on the stock turbo.

    Beyond this you will need a larger turbo.

    Last edited by SarcasticOne; 26-06-2012 at 11:00 AM.
    Newbie FAQ My Build Thread
    From stock, to GT3071, to substantially less modded, many lessons learned!
    3" HTP | 100 Cel DP | Autotech HPFP | AP V3 - Self Tuned on E20 | JBR RSB | CPE S2 REM | JBR Shifter Bushings

  3. #3
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    Data Logging & WOT logs

    Under the blue Circle with ? icon on main screen, go to settings -> Units -> select "Standard".
    This gives you pressures in psi, but at same time, gives you speed in MPH and temps in F.
    To set the default logging parameters, go to Monitor -> "Reset Log List".

    to do a WOT log, i prefer to have either knock retard or rpm showing on the screen, depends how worried you are about knock
    Press the big circle button on the AP and wait for it to say "logging" once done, plant the foot, after doing the desired rev range, slow car down, and when safe to do so, press big button again to stop the log.
    for a 3rd gear log, start ~2000rpm, and go to at least 6000rpm, a 4th gear should be done from ~2500rpm to 6000rpm, this is to "speed up" the process, as im sure you all know, there isnt much torque/power available under 2500rpm in these cars...

    you'll be able to see where the WOT log is, as "Throttle Position (%)" is a constant 80+%, also, if posting logs on forum, please trim them down to show what you need, we dont need to see the 10 minutes of driving before you get to do WOT run

    LEGAL DISCLAIMER: for a 4th gear log, you should be doing it on a private road as the speeds reached are not legal on public roads anywhere in Australia and if you get caught you'll probably lose your licence.
    Newbie FAQ My Build Thread
    From stock, to GT3071, to substantially less modded, many lessons learned!
    3" HTP | 100 Cel DP | Autotech HPFP | AP V3 - Self Tuned on E20 | JBR RSB | CPE S2 REM | JBR Shifter Bushings

  4. #4
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    Shift Light

    To set up your Access Port to flash when you hit a certain RPM, go into Monitor -> "Set Rev Warning" -> scroll up/down and set by pressing the OK button
    The nice thing about this is it will work no matter what value you are showing on the screen... so you can be watching Knock Retard, but when it hits the designated revs, the AP will flash.

  5. #5
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    Default Reading/Understanding Logs

    When you log default parameters on the AP, you get a log that contains the following fields:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    These files come in .csv file format, and can be read/opened by Excel (or similar) program. With logging, you can log more parameters, but it can slow down logging time.

    At the moment, temperature is in deg F, so here's a basic table for you lazy people who dont want to convert temps:
    C --- F
    10 - 50
    20 - 68
    30 - 86
    40 - 104
    50 - 122


    The ones to really keep an eye on are the following:
    Actual AFR's
    Boost (Psi)
    HPFP Act.
    Knock Retard
    Long Term Fuel Trim

    Actual AFR's
    This is the AFR in your cylinders, during boost, it's best to keep this in the 11's.
    There is very little power to be gained by leaning out into 12's and 13's, on top of this, it also stops the risk of early detination and helps keep the cylinders cooler (all good things!)
    Richer AFR's also allow you to run more timing.
    Common Questions:
    Post shift richening:
    90% of the time this is caused by having BOV set to VTA

    Boost (Psi)
    You know that turbo in the back on your engine, well, it's important to keep an eye on just how hard it's working, the boost levels (as well as Wastegate Duty (%)) will tell you just how hard it's working at any given point in time.
    You should never really have reason to run stock turbo over 20psi... nor run 18psi over 5500rpm, this is when it stops being efficient, and just starts generating excess heat
    Common Questions:
    Boost too high:

    Boost too low:
    Boost stopping at 21psi: If your logs are stopping at ~21.5psi, it's because you're maxing the MAP sensor, you need to upgrade to either a 3 BAR (28.5 psi) or 3.5 BAR (36 psi) sensor.
    (note, a 3 or 3.5 BAR MAP sensor upgrade requires an ECU recalibration)

    HPFP Act.
    This is actually very important to watch, as the ECU does strange (and somewhat dangerous) things to the car when the pressure drops below 1600psi.
    A stage 1 tune targets ~1650psi (stock fuel pump) and stage 2 tune targets ~1750psi (upgraded).
    Common Questions:
    Pressure low:
    If you notice your fuel pressure taking a dramatic dive (ie 1100psi or lower) during WOT runs, it's time to upgrade that fuel pump!

    Knock Retard
    Ok, a lot of this information is coming from this thread and this thread
    Knock Retard is when the combustion in the cylinder(s) doesnt happen correctly. Knock will (hopefully) be the first sign that something's not right under your bonnet. First thing you have to understand is that the sensor itself picks up noise, so it "listens" for noise. This means the sensor can read "false knock" and cause power loss. You have to realise how the ECU treats KR, it drops it over a period of time (even if knock is no longer occuring).

    Some people confuse KR with actual detonation, but it's not. Think of KR as avoided detonation. Kinda like if i were to throw a punch at you, and you were to dodge... it would be an avoided punch, not a real punch. The amount you have to dodge is equivalent to the value of KR you see in your logs, but it's still "dodged" nonetheless.

    KR is, however, a great indication that something isn't right with the tune, and that the ECU is having to take active steps to avoid detonation from occurring. So don't ignore it, it's the ECU trying to tell you something.
    3 Common types of False knock are as follows:
    Spool up KR:
    Your turbo is spooling up, and causes extra noise (watch for boost increasing). Common cause of this is higher than normal BAT's. Anything under 1.0 isnt worth worrying about.
    High RPM/Shifting:
    The MZR DISI engine is incredibly noisy at high RPM's. Once again, anything under 1.0 isnt something to worry about.
    Also, if you notice a brief moment of knock when lifting off throttle/changing gears, this is likely your engine moving around the engine bay. (if you see something in the 2-3 region, you have a very noisy engine or something isnt right with your tune)
    Cold Engine KR:
    You should all know that your car needs to warm up, and it takes ~15 minutes to warm up properly. This KR is has been termed a "friendly reminder" not to go WOT unless car is fully warmed up. However the knock sensor is not active before coolant temp is above 158 degrees F (70 deg C).

    Common Questions:
    Not Decaying: If it's real knock, as the engine lowers timing/richens AFR's, the amount of knock present should decrease, if it doesn't, it's a sign that something else is not right with your car.

    Long Term Fuel Trim
    the ECU has 2 "modes" these are called open loop and closed loop
    Open Loop: the car gets told by the MAF calibration that there is a certain amount of air going in, it then looks for the requested AFT for that RPM/load and squirts in the appropriate amount of fuel, nice and simple!
    Closed Loop: this is effectively the same as open loop, but for one key difference... the O2 sensors come into play
    for example, the requested AFR is 14, and it's reading 12.6 from the O2 sensor, there is obviously more fuel in being injected than there should be, so the ECU will pull back the amount of fuel, this immediate pulling of fuel is reflected in the Short Term Fuel Trim over time, this updates the Long Term Fuel Trim so that at a given MAF voltage, the car automatically pulls/adds a certain amount of fuel

    so, the order of Closed Loop is as follows:
    read MAF voltage
    Look up requested AFR, add/subtract LTFT
    Inject fuel
    Compare O2 reading to requested AFR
    Modify STFT and/or LTFT

    by seeing that the LTFT is seriously -ve, this means the car is pulling a large percentage of the fuel it thinks should be going in, therefore, not all the air that is going past the MAF sensor is entering the engine

    when a car goes richer (ie AFR gets lower) than expected, the cause is usually post turbo, as the pressured air will escape
    when the car goes leaner (ie AFR goes higher) than expected, the cause is usually between the MAF sensor and the turbo itself as the turbo is sucking in extra airMore information:http://accessecu.com/support/docs/su...0Guidance.html
    Last edited by SarcasticOne; 06-07-2013 at 03:01 PM.
    Newbie FAQ My Build Thread
    From stock, to GT3071, to substantially less modded, many lessons learned!
    3" HTP | 100 Cel DP | Autotech HPFP | AP V3 - Self Tuned on E20 | JBR RSB | CPE S2 REM | JBR Shifter Bushings

  6. Default

    Well done on a great thread.

  7. #7
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    Default Setting Flat Foot Shift, Launch control, and idle rpm

    Changing FFS RPM
    Under Limiter tables -> FFS Rev limiter, select the field, press E (for edit) and set it to desired RPM... mine is set to 5500 in this example
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Changing Launch Control RPM
    Under Limiter tables -> LC Rev limiter, select the field, press E (for edit) and set it to desired RPM... mine is set to 3000 in this example
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Changing Idle RPM

    Idle Tables -> Idle Base AC - A & B
    This is the RPM you go to when your A/C kicks in... should be set to either equal, or more than idle rpm (see next 2 tables)
    Change ALL values in these cells.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Idle Tables -> Idle Speeds Base AC - A & B
    These tables govern idle rpm vs coolant temp, when you turn car on, starts at ~1800rpm, and then goes down, you can adjust the initial rpm, and also the final rpm here.
    I believe the table B is the one that affects cold starts, so if you want your car to be extra loud, or quieter, in the mornings, change the values on the left.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    i would suggest you only change the last 3 values, ie:
    -40.00-4.0032.0068.00104.00140.00176.00212.00
    17501750150012501000XXXXXXXXX
    where XXX is your desired idle rpm
    Last edited by SarcasticOne; 27-06-2012 at 10:34 AM.
    Newbie FAQ My Build Thread
    From stock, to GT3071, to substantially less modded, many lessons learned!
    3" HTP | 100 Cel DP | Autotech HPFP | AP V3 - Self Tuned on E20 | JBR RSB | CPE S2 REM | JBR Shifter Bushings

  8. #8
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    Default

    Where u get access tuner race? I thought it wasn't available yet?

  9. #9
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    Sorry didn't reRead the FAQ above for access tuner race. Found the link

  10. #10

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    For everyone waiting for ATR, it's finally here for the ADM cars as noted in this sticky above. So anyone waiting for this to get an e-tune ... well the wait is over

  11. #11
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    This link above - More information:http://accessecu.com/support/docs/su...0Guidance.html is broken.

  12. #12

    Default

    Great info & well packaged.

    Cheers!

  13. #13
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    Default

    Awesome post mate, has helped lots thanks.

  14. #14
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    There are some new beta updates to the OTS Maps.

    COBB AccessPORT for Turbo Mazda3/6 Goes Global, New PURE Boost OTS Maps and More! - http://blogs.cobbtuning.com/2012/10/...maps-and-more/

  15. #15

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by naasif View Post
    There are some new beta updates to the OTS Maps.

    COBB AccessPORT for Turbo Mazda3/6 Goes Global, New PURE Boost OTS Maps and More! - http://blogs.cobbtuning.com/2012/10/...maps-and-more/
    Naasif, have a look at the boost targets on the new maps, they have incorporated you query about higher boost targets earlier on in the rev range.
    GENII 2009 MPS LUX

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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by jnt View Post
    Naasif, have a look at the boost targets on the new maps, they have incorporated you query about higher boost targets earlier on in the rev range.
    I've had a look at Stage1+TIH+ICv230 against v231 and the boost target tables look exactly the same to me. Also compare Stage2+TIH+ICv230 against v231 and couldn't see any difference.

    Perhaps some other tables were modified ? Which maps were you looking at ?

    Edit: You're right, I didn't look closely enough There are changes.
    Last edited by naasif; 08-10-2012 at 08:38 PM. Reason: Correction in my post
    Trying to keep it subtle ... | COBB AccessPort | COBB DP | CP-e HPFP | CorkSport TMIC | TurboSmart BPV | Denso ITV22| CorkSport Boost Tubes | SURE Full3 Aeros | SURE REM (Street) | SURE AGS SS Shift Knob | 2XS SSP + SURE CounterShift | Speedline Front Strut Brace | Whiteline RSB | Prima Paint Protection

  17. #17
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    If you have an Ecutek tune, are you still able to use the AP to tune? or are they incompatible to each other? sorry if it's like a n00b questions, i've just been wondering if you had an Ecutek tune, would then using an AP cause more harm than good if you tried to use one?

  18. #18

    Default Cobb Access Port FAQ

    Quote Originally Posted by Baz View Post
    If you have an Ecutek tune, are you still able to use the AP to tune? or are they incompatible to each other? sorry if it's like a n00b questions, i've just been wondering if you had an Ecutek tune, would then using an AP cause more harm than good if you tried to use one?
    They are incompatible

    Loading the AP will wipe the ECUtek tune and load its own

    You will lose the ECUtek tune and will have to go back to where you got it to get it back

    AFAIK

    Peter "SLIXX"
    Last edited by slixx; 15-12-2012 at 12:40 PM.

    Snapped by Tangcla - FB Page
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  19. #19
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    haha, good thing i asked here before going out and getting one then... would hate to spend $500 to undo something that cost me $1,500 to do, lol, so i couldn't even use it if i wanted to check engine error codes or boost pressures and such?

  20. #20
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    Default Re: Cobb Access Port FAQ

    Quote Originally Posted by Baz View Post
    If you have an Ecutek tune, are you still able to use the AP to tune? or are they incompatible to each other? sorry if it's like a n00b questions, i've just been wondering if you had an Ecutek tune, would then using an AP cause more harm than good if you tried to use one?
    No, you can only use one flash tune method at a time.. You could use a flash and a piggy back unit together though it is not something frequently done

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