Hi Ryan, I'm not sure if your question is tongue in cheek or not but will assume it is genuine. If you remove the resonator, all that is left is the air-filter box, with its open port underneath that used to communicate with the resonator. If the port in the bottom of the filter box isn't blocked off, then dust is ingested into the filter box. You will see that the point of union between them is protected by a foam gasket for this reason. Considering this resonator and the associated port is in about the dustiest location imaginable, namely behind the wheel arch and low down, with venting in the front valance area, it is guaranteed to suck in everything around.
Unless you plan on installing a CAI or SRI, then I'd recommend leaving the resonator in place until such time as you do. My views on CAI's are well known here, although I know not everyone agrees with me. The SRI is simpler, has a shorter air-path and is less prone to a variety of troubles, including pipe vibration and cracking, including its mounts, more heat soak due to longer plumbing, and potential for water ingestion. Frankly, I think they are a pain in the butt and just take up engine bay space to little or no distinct advantage.
And s I have noted elsewhere, removing the resonator just to produce "noise" seems senseless. Modify for true functionality, not rubbish cosmetic effects.
CP_e Standback & PNP; CP_e 3" SS Downpipe; Corksport FMIC with Top-mount K&N filter & OEM Ram CAI; Turbosmart BOV; Dashhawk; Prosport Boost Guage; JBR solid shift bushes; DBA 4000 Wiper-Slot front rotors; Hawk Ferro-Carbon HPS Street front brake pads (@ 69,000km); Sumitomo HTRZIII's in 225/45 x 18