Snapped by Tangcla - FB Page
Currently RaydTuned
Lots of love from 2XS Racing & Dan's Garage Detailing
Thought I'd resurrect this thread.
I've got a MPS6 (2005) which I have owned from new.
Just had the 100k service & Mazda quoted me $750+ to do the rear shockies only. HMMM. Might spend just a bit more & freshen up the old girl..Not really wanting to lower. Has anybody put the Bilsteins on standard springs or if putting the Eibachs on how much has it been lowered (probably be happy whit no more than10mm drop). Any advice re bad combination appreciated...While I've got her apart how much heavier a rear sway bar (whiteline/Cobb) has been a good compromise? I am assuming say 25 to 27mm?
Predominately a DD, but I do at least 1 track day per set of tires (just to shred them completely)
Thanks in advance.
The Bilstein b8 are lowered applications and the Bilstein b6 are for standard height. Not sure about the mps6 but for a gen II mps3 the eibach pro kit drop the front/rear by 25/10mm. I think king springs and h&r drop by 25 to 30mm. I don't know if there is a spring that will drop height by less than 10mm
The standard MPS springs are already lowered so they will work with the Bilstein B8s. If you are after a mild drop, Eibachs are what you want. I use Eibach/Bilstein combo and it works very well for the street.
For the rear swaybar, just get one. the handling is so much nicer you wont regret it.
The B8 are not ok for use with standard springs, the car won't drive well and the spring rates will be wrong for the damper.
The B8 are designed for use with Eibach Sportline or H&R Sport springs. When you buy a B12 suspension kit from Bilstein these are the matched springs they supply with B8 shocks (which the kit comprises).
B6 are stock replacement shocks designed for use with factory spring rates & heights or a mild spring like the Eibach Pro Kit.
I agree with your set up, Bilstein/Eibach is the combo to go for
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
2011 Mazda 3 MPS
NOTE... no matter what u get go Camber links............................................. ................
I have mazdaspeed camber links im still running - camber issues...
next mod camber arms more + camber
My B8's finally arrived yesterday.
Going in with King Springs.
Sent from my Huge Samsung Note 2
lol that's totally different then. how did you get -3 on the front? you got coilovers?
Ideal camber is around -1 to -1.5 front and -1.5 to -2 rear depending how aggressive you drive.
For a daily driver I would be inclined to be around -1.2 and -1.5 respectively for even tire wear.
Taken from the mazda6club alignment thread:
"If you run wide 40 series tires, and don't corner hard a lot at track events, high neg camber (-2 deg or more) will wear out the inner tire edges." This has been proven by many owners over time.
Hows your tire wear?
Last edited by dazza; 19-11-2012 at 02:07 PM.
It'd be different for a 3 due to fwd only. need more camber on front to tame the tendency to understeer. but definatey for a street car, anything more than -1.5 will increase tyre wear unless you frequently corner hard
Well I'm by no means a guru on this but having a decent mechanic in the family helps
Nothing special about my suspension, Mazdaspeed springs, Koni yellow shocks. The drop was enough to push the camber past -3. We actually pulled it back to -3 using the very limited adjustability available.
As for tyre wear, yes it does wear more so on the inner, but tbh, welcome to turbo'd FWD cars. Good luck with the understeer otherwise. I rotate my tyres around pretty regularly, and that along with running correct tyre pressures alleviates the problem. I get ~40K out of a set of AD08's @ 235x40x80 (RX8 Rim). Expensive, sticky tyres they are, I have far, far less wheelspin that I had with the Bridgestone RE001's. This has translated to much longer tyre life = pays for itself. You can also swap your tyres side to side if need be..
Do you have a 3 or 6 @Scaredycrow? As far as I'm aware for the 3 (and in particular the Gen 1) there's no provision to adjust camber on the front, only toe.
The rear you can change camber, but it also changes toe at the same time which is undesirable.
I'm really curious how u got massive -ve camber on the front. With coilovers I'd see how with camber plates, but not with a shock/spring combo (unless you have aftermarket strut tops).
It depends how much his drop is, but must be pretty damn low to push it past -3. I am lowered on eibach springs and my front camber was only -0.5. The front is non-adjustable on the 3 and 6 without camber arms or ball joints I think
I have B12's installed on my car, but no noticeable drop in height. Ride seems pretty close to stock without the massive clunk clunk of f***ed up stock shocks. Maybe sitting on standard shocks for nearly 95k flattened them out a bit and lowered the car naturally?
If anyone is thinking of upgrading for a drop, I recommend the B12's (have to import). It's a Bilstein shock (probably similar to a B8) plus an Eibach spring. Supposed to be 25mm front and 15mm rear... I notice nothing, no scrapes anywhere.
Doing my head in...Konis/ billies B6,B8, B12..Eibach/ King springs...I'm now sufferreing from analysis paralysis.
Here's the decision, A B12 Kit (Eibach Pro Kit & Bilstein B8 sports dampers) for $1,075 (+GST)....just have to wait till mid January for delivery.
Does that seem OK for the dollars?
@Dr. Teeth got his for less than that...
Newbie FAQ My Build Thread
From stock, to GT3071, to substantially less modded, many lessons learned!
3" HTP | 100 Cel DP | Autotech HPFP | AP V3 - Self Tuned on E20 | JBR RSB | CPE S2 REM | JBR Shifter Bushings
Here a link to ebay for Bilstein Shocks by themselves if you wanna choose your own springs
4x Stoßdämpfer BILSTEIN B8-SPRINT FORD FOCUS II DA, MAZDA 3, VOLVO C30 komplett | eBay