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Thread: Fuel Pump Upgrades

  1. #61
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    @noob


    Quote Originally Posted by hpfpupgrade View Post
    Fuel trims will vary depending on many factors. First, check your intake system, make sure all the clamps are tight and you don't have any leaks. Next, the fuel pump upgrade will cause some variables in LTFT but not much (about what you are seeing). The biggest one of all is the fuel tables for HPFP control. Sometimes the fuel pressure tables will need to be changed, if you have some noise coming from your fuel pump under part throttle acceleration, you need to get a tune change made. This is the pump coming up on pressure to quick and causing excessive pressure to build up in the fuel system. Not a bad thing, but not something you want to drive around on for a long time either.

    It sounds like the car is running well, just a few tune tweaks and we could have it running even better!

    Hope this helps.

    -John
    Every man should have a V8 ute.....with a Chev badge.....and a Southern Cross sticker! Mods? What mods?

  2. #62
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    Apr 2010
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    well, it's taken me a while, but here's the "why does the stock one fail" (note, MS paint pictures ahead)
    thanks to @MPS2NV for his explanation that he clearly doesnt remember giving me (also correct me if im wrong in any of this )
    as some of you may/may not know, we have a cam driven fuel pump
    this means, our pressure comes from a (somewhat) simple designed fuel pump...
    at it's most basic, it's a piston going up and down off a camshaft lobe
    so when it's working properly, it looks like this:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    as you can see, the cam shaft lobe pushes the piston up and into the pump, thereby compressing the fuel

    now, what happens when you see pressure drops is the following:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    as you can see on the right, the piston has lost contact with the camshaft and this means the compression isnt as good on the fuel, and therefore results in less pressure being formed

    as you get more power, the cam spins faster, making it more likely that the piston will not come back down with the camshaft lobe

    i cant remember exactly what it is that the internals do, but from memory it increases the surface area and/or length of the piston, making it much more difficult to drop pressure

    hopefully that helps people understand
    Newbie FAQ My Build Thread
    From stock, to GT3071, to substantially less modded, many lessons learned!
    3" HTP | 100 Cel DP | Autotech HPFP | AP V3 - Self Tuned on E20 | JBR RSB | CPE S2 REM | JBR Shifter Bushings

  3. #63
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    That was one theory I heard of in early days, also by increasing the plunger/ element diameter the fuel volume with auto tech internals this must have an effect on this theary, on the other hand cpe do this and change the spring also to maintain correct plunger stroke and eliminate a "float" situation

  4. #64
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    By increasing the chamber volume the initial amount of fuel allowed in from lift pump is also increased to maintain snore stable fuel pressures

    - - - Updated - - -

    Dam ifail lol

  5. #65
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    Default Fuel Pump Upgrades

    I don't think it's a normal cam shaped lobe on the pump, it's triangular (3 lobes) I.e shaped like a rotary.

  6. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattMPS3 View Post
    I don't think it's a normal cam shaped lobe on the pump, it's triangular (3 lobes) I.e shaped like a rotary.
    oi, stop complicating things....
    was trying to keep it simple so people can understand
    Newbie FAQ My Build Thread
    From stock, to GT3071, to substantially less modded, many lessons learned!
    3" HTP | 100 Cel DP | Autotech HPFP | AP V3 - Self Tuned on E20 | JBR RSB | CPE S2 REM | JBR Shifter Bushings

  7. #67

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    Just installed HPFP internals for my Gen 1.
    All seemed to go well except for some reason I decided to try & replaced the top section of the pump that has a wire connector with the one supplied. Which i now think is for the VW Golf....
    I think I have installed the internals well enough, though it seems when I removed the wire connector a spring & a metal section that the spring sits in fell out. I found the pieces & placed the metal section in 1st then the spring.

    I don't think this is right as when the car is below 2500 revs it stutters and when i get over 3000 it runs fine however there is a ringing sound coming from the motor. Dont want to hassle the peeps, but I tried to find a Parts Diagram for the Fuel Pump, but to no avail.

    I'm driving the car very carefully so no chance of zoom boom.......

    Any suggestions or directions to HPFP parts diagram would be appreciated.

    Cheers

    Sam

  8. #68
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    Default Re: Fuel Pump Upgrades

    That doesn't sound right....

    Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

  9. #69

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    Yeah it doesn't feel right either.

    I'm going to reverse the installation of the spring & the metal sleeve this morning to see if it makes any difference.

    If not I'm going to re-install the fuel pump.

    Anyways if you think of anything let me know.

    Cheers

  10. #70

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    Changed the spring & metal sleeve location.

    All working well now!!!

    Lesson learnt.........

  11. #71
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    Default Re: Fuel Pump Upgrades

    Quote Originally Posted by Hama3 View Post
    Changed the spring & metal sleeve location.

    All working well now!!!

    Lesson learnt.........
    What was wrong? Just installer error first time around?

    Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
    Newbie FAQ My Build Thread
    From stock, to GT3071, to substantially less modded, many lessons learned!
    3" HTP | 100 Cel DP | Autotech HPFP | AP V3 - Self Tuned on E20 | JBR RSB | CPE S2 REM | JBR Shifter Bushings

  12. #72

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    Yeah, basically.

    I installed the HPFP internal correctly.

    What I did wrong was re-install the spring & metal sleeve of the sender (section that screws to the top of the pump with the electrical connection) back to front.

    So I removed the sender with a large adjustable spanner, removed the spring & metal sleeve with a clean pair of long nosed pliers. Then placed the spring in 1st then the metal sleeve which sits over the spring & connects with the nipple at the bottom of the sender unit.

    I hope that makes sense.

    Moral of the story is don't remove SH** unless you have to

    I don't know the correct terminology but I hope that makes sense......


    Cheers

  13. #73
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    May 2009
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    Wrong , moral to the story is (look carefully at how it comes apart ) place disassembly directly in sequence to removal.
    Glad you got it fixed ,a simple operator error!!!!!.
    Item was the spill valve ,or simply a by pass valve ..

  14. #74
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    Aug 2009
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    hunter valley
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    Always a relief to find what went wrong, even better if you pick up on your own misstakes

  15. #75

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    Yeah, definitely & i would have done this if I noticed the parts in the 1st removal Oldhead, which I didn't cause they didn't pop out

    Am very relieved it's sorted.

    After a long think it sort of made sense though, if you know what I mean. The nipple on the spill valve needed a flat surface to operate.

    Hey we all hopefully learn from our mistakes.

  16. Default

    Quick question, have peeps been also cleaning the entire HPFP whilst changing over the internals, or just focusing on changing over the internals? It would seem an opportune time to give the entire HPFP a good clean...anyone got any thoughts?

  17. #77

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    perhaps, if you're very confident. I think by taking the whole assembly apart just creates more chances for things to go wrong

  18. #78

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    Yeah I just did the replacement internals. Cleaned down into the pump as much as I could but didn't take the whole thing apart

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  19. #79
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    The 3 I have done for others I chose to dissassemble the whole unit and clean the fine build up.

  20. #80

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    Ok problem. Car started fine and drove fine last night, as did it this morning, but when I started it tonight, it would start then die after about 2 seconds. Did this 3 times. Then I tried priming the pump 3 times, but the same thing happened again when I went to start. Next time I tried to start I gave it a bit of throttle and it started and from the on it ran and idled fine. Also started fine the next time. No idea what's going on!

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