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Thread: Fuel Pump Upgrades

  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by MPS2NV View Post
    Tools use to carry out internal upgrade are prob not in you home DIY kit, you will need torx socket (think it was size 6, never looked), 19mm spanner, security type torx bit , deep socket (from memory) also 19mm single hex, small pick or flat screw driver and bench vice ( with some means of protection to avoid external damage to the pump body)

    As I have access to workshop equipment I dissmantled the whole pump cleaning and drying it completely before assembling. It may not be needed but it would be poor not to do so! If you are going to attempt to do this job and your not mecahnically minded pay attention to part orientation as inside the pump is more involved then what you might think given its size. Make sure you have the above equipment before you touch the pump!

    As Sams car has aftermarket TMIC I was able to gain access to HPFP easy without need to remove other parts, covers etc... Make sure the car is cool and hasn't been running, best to be safe when working on your pride and joy! Expect fuel pressure when disconnecting the the fuel lines from the pump! watch your eyes!

    Step 1, Turn off ignition and remove key! Disconnect the battery also. Remove engine covers as required to access HPFP ( I managed to have enough access to remove pump body!) disconnect the wire to sensor on top of the HPFP

    Step 2, disconnect the fuel lines from the HPFP expect fuel to spray your in your eyes , be gentle with the yellow and blue clip, the yellow clip will click out easy but dont be to rough on the blue clip! the position of the blue clip is critical on re installation! Remove the high pressure line nut from the bottom of the HPFP 19mm spanner ( I advise packing a rag under the pump to prevent the nut sliding down the fuel line into the abiss lol)

    Step 3, There is 3 torx bolts holding the HPFP into its position, undo each of these bolts a little at a time to let the pump come out evenly from its housing ( depending on the engine position the cam lobe may have full lift on the pump, this may be an issue on installation, if that is the case turn engine clock wise from crank pulley to allow pump be refitted easier, you will work it out!) The pump should now come out! make sure the bucket doesn't fall out of the hole where the pump was, cover the hole with a clean rag to make sure shit doesn't go in it!

    Step 4, I suggest doing this part in a clean tidy place! The factory spring and piston will come out easy, gently hold the spring and pull it, the spring and shaft should now be in your hand! You will see a shiney nut where the spring and shaft came from, you will need to hold the pump body in the vice (with timbers or rags, dont crush it ethier!) the nut is tight! undo the nut and pay attention to the piston inside! the ends are different sizes! if you keep the parts in correct orientation it will give you more confidence that you are doing it right!

    Step 5, With your torx bits remove the 2 screws and plate, inside are some discs and rings, dont **** this up. make sure they go in the same way they came out. This allows you so clean the whole hole HPFP body, it will have a fine coating of wear debree in it. Clean it and the parts well, dry it well! then install the disc's and plate. This step is optional but its best time to do it!


    Step 6, Its time to install the new internals, you will notice that the new piston and shaft can only be fitted before the retaing nut can go back into the HPFP body, ensure the new piston is in the correct way! use a slight smear of clean oil on the parts, gently push the shaft through the nut, there is a seal in there that you dont wont to damage. The spring and new collets and retaining ring can go on once the piston, shaft and retaining nut have been installed. The new shaft will not pull out like the factory one did but this step is also important to avoid a pump failure! Pull the shaft out as far as it will go, place the spring over the shaft followed by the retaining ring and 2 little collets. Pay attention to the seating position of the collets, retainer and spring. gently push the shaft inwards and check that the collets are seated correctly! The HPFP is now ready to be refitted!

    Step 7, Make sure the shaft is not desturbed when re fitting! Align the HPFP and gently make push the pump back into its position (refer to step 3 if it sits out to far! remember the spring may have full lift on it!) start the 3 torx bolts by fingers and eveny wind them in to seat the HPFP into its original position then finnally nip the bolts back up. (some one might like to add tensions to this) A 1/4' rachet is perfect.

    Step 8, You can now reconnect all the fuel lines and sensor paying attention to the fuel clips as mentioned above, reconnect your battery ( make sure you dont have fuel everywhere ) Turn your igniton to the reds and allow the fuel system to prime, check to see that you have no fuel leaks from the lines before starting! If you are confident that all is well start your car!

    Although that sounds like alot of work this could be done in around an hour, its not a race though so take your time and enjoy DIY!
    His is part bump. I will be doing this tomorrow i will try to add pics to this 'if i remember'....
    Many want Power not many hold it long.........

  2. #42

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    im selling a CPe pump if anyone is interested

  3. #43
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    OK i only got a few pics as i was too worried about ****ing it up lol..
    Attachment 10904
    Attachment 10906The 2 screws you can see are security torx scews
    Attachment 10905
    Attachment 10907The brake line spanner is for the HP fuel line on bottom of pump 19mm, the big open ender spanner is 32mm its for the big bolt on the pump need vice for this (or you can use a shifter BUT it is very tight so i use the 32mm spanner) You need the long sockets to get to a nut at the bottom of spring shown in photos, you need to push down on the spring to get to it, this was a 18mm once again it very tight need vice for this. Brake cleaner is to clean all parts, remember to engine oil up the moving parts (tip from mitch ) If you follow the instruction with HPFP internals you cant go wrong..
    Last edited by RedDjinn; 29-04-2012 at 12:49 PM.
    Many want Power not many hold it long.........

  4. #44
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    Took me 1.5 hrs including chasing tools lol...

  5. #45
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    so is a GB being organised for the AutoTech from Edge one? Please say yes

  6. #46

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    Quote Originally Posted by steviekfc View Post
    so is a GB being organised for the AutoTech from Edge one? Please say yes
    missed the boat mr kfc that happened 2 months ago

  7. #47
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    0hwell the internals are as cheap as chips anyway compared to a full cpe replacement.

  8. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by steviekfc View Post
    0hwell the internals are as cheap as chips anyway compared to a full cpe replacement.
    There is another option on the forums...

    $295 + shipping for our fuel pump internals
    $495 + shipping + core for our tested S1 fuel pump

    No longer do you have to pay the high price to get the quality products.

    Thanks,

    John

  9. #49
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    Did my Autotech HPFP internals today and no issues , If you have the right tools and follow the written instructions .
    TIP , before you even think of tightening the 3 pump housing bolts (evenly) line up the bottom fuel line and put at least 3 to 4 full turns on the 19mm hex nut , be patient and dont cross thread , By doing this before you start to tighten housing bolts(3) you will save yourself some pain as there is very little movement or play with the metal fuel line.

    I was amazed at the amount of rubbish that came of the internal components (used brake clean CRC and cotton buds to wipe the film off)
    Attatched is a very helpful link (you tube video of pull down and instal) .
    MazdaSpeed Fuel Pump - YouTube

  10. #50

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    How hard would you rate it, old head?

    1 being amateur with no idea.

    10 being qualified mechanic.

  11. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMOKEY View Post
    How hard would you rate it, old head?

    1 being amateur with no idea.

    10 being qualified mechanic.
    -3 even @SarcasticOne can do it. ROFL
    Many want Power not many hold it long.........

  12. #52

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    Ouch! Let the man speak haha.

    But that would be good news!

  13. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMOKEY View Post
    How hard would you rate it, old head?

    1 being amateur with no idea.

    10 being qualified mechanic.
    (4) Take your time ,Look, Look, & common sense . Its not a rubics cube! But like everthing if you feel out of your depth ,get a mate to help. Or ask forum members thats what we are here for.

  14. #54

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    Thats good news. I'm sure I can manage in that case. Hmm....Fuel pump internals and down pipe......I need a raise!

  15. #55
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    Time for a report, autotech internals installed over a week ago and approx 150klms .
    yes the car does now pull harder at full boost and seems as though stronger above 5000rpm.and right through to redline. It did not before .
    Highest recorded PSI was 1836. and before install 1750psi.
    dashawk used for readouts.ECU was reset and 150klms driven for recalibration and wear in of internals.
    One real hard WOT pull , to 6500 rpm each gear (1st,2nd ,3rd,4th) .

    I have noticed some differences ,which i cannot explain and hope someone here with more knowledge can?????
    Prior to install ,once car was at operational temp 185 deg , flat road , light throttle application so as to acheive constant speeds.

    Idle 750rpm = LTFT of -7.9 Now 750rpm =LTFT of -6.1
    60klm hr = LTFT of -3.9 Now 60klm hr=LTFT of -3.1
    100klm hr = LTFT of -3.2 Now 100klmhr=LTFT of -2.3

    Seems as though roughly a 20% increase in fuel , and i would of thought that the fuel trims would have stayed as per original maps???? .
    It is only the delivery PSI that has changed so why have Trims altered .?????
    Would the extra pressure alter the pulse width into cylinder from injector ?????.
    Curios.,chime in guys.
    Way to many mods, way too much money spent,way way too much time spent = the wifes no 1 Enemy.
    But i,m Smiling

  16. #56
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    Looks like a TH trip!

  17. #57

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    @Oldhead
    Yes, it needs to be retuned for HPFP internals.

    I had posted this in the past and cant remember where i found the first quote....
    but here i copied and paste the lot again.

    "A potential issue is that fuel pump bore and stroke have to be properly sized in the ecu for the ecu to be able to understand how to apply the fuel.
    Essentially, the ecu uses a calculation based on hpfp size to determine how long to fire the solenoid on the pump to get the proper amount of fuel delivery to the rail."

    And from COBB,
    "These vehicles are particularly sensitive to hardware changes. For instance, if you
    install an aftermarket CDFP or a different intake system, the MAF calibration will
    need to be modified. Please be sure to reflash the calibration that is best suited
    for your vehicle's modifications and the fuel quality you are running."
    Last edited by Cton; 06-06-2012 at 06:52 PM.

  18. #58
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    The standard tune is a lot more tolerable to changes but when tuned the settings are a lot more honed in, so the tolerances are a lot less.

    As i found out just changing a muffler it leaned out the AFRs.

  19. #59
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    I know why i belong to this forum , good inputs and info returning.
    Legends & thanks guys.

    LTFT had me baffled,

  20. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Oldhead View Post
    Time for a report, autotech internals installed over a week ago and approx 150klms .
    yes the car does now pull harder at full boost and seems as though stronger above 5000rpm.and right through to redline. It did not before .
    Highest recorded PSI was 1836. and before install 1750psi.
    dashawk used for readouts.ECU was reset and 150klms driven for recalibration and wear in of internals.
    One real hard WOT pull , to 6500 rpm each gear (1st,2nd ,3rd,4th) .

    I have noticed some differences ,which i cannot explain and hope someone here with more knowledge can?????
    Prior to install ,once car was at operational temp 185 deg , flat road , light throttle application so as to acheive constant speeds.

    Idle 750rpm = LTFT of -7.9 Now 750rpm =LTFT of -6.1
    60klm hr = LTFT of -3.9 Now 60klm hr=LTFT of -3.1
    100klm hr = LTFT of -3.2 Now 100klmhr=LTFT of -2.3

    Seems as though roughly a 20% increase in fuel , and i would of thought that the fuel trims would have stayed as per original maps???? .
    It is only the delivery PSI that has changed so why have Trims altered .?????
    Would the extra pressure alter the pulse width into cylinder from injector ?????.
    Curios.,chime in guys.
    Fuel trims will vary depending on many factors. First, check your intake system, make sure all the clamps are tight and you don't have any leaks. Next, the fuel pump upgrade will cause some variables in LTFT but not much (about what you are seeing). The biggest one of all is the fuel tables for HPFP control. Sometimes the fuel pressure tables will need to be changed, if you have some noise coming from your fuel pump under part throttle acceleration, you need to get a tune change made. This is the pump coming up on pressure to quick and causing excessive pressure to build up in the fuel system. Not a bad thing, but not something you want to drive around on for a long time either.

    It sounds like the car is running well, just a few tune tweaks and we could have it running even better!

    Hope this helps.

    -John

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