How do you tune these things?
What am I meant to listen for to tune them?
I get a lot of loud backfires, am I meant to turn it to make the spring harder or softer?
Also I am running a stock TMIC, will a aftermarket TMIC / FMIC make my BOV louder?
How do you tune these things?
What am I meant to listen for to tune them?
I get a lot of loud backfires, am I meant to turn it to make the spring harder or softer?
Also I am running a stock TMIC, will a aftermarket TMIC / FMIC make my BOV louder?
Firstly, do you have it set to 50:50, full recirc, or full VTA? Guessing if you are getting backfires you have 50:50 or full VTA...
Making the spring tighter (turning cap down) will reduce backfires. Turning it down too far may induce flutter.
AFAIK you want it as tight as you can without getting flutter... With mine turned down as tight as it goes, I still got occasional popping in the exhaust, and no flutter.
My tuning method was... Drive it, pull over and adjust, drive some more, pull over and adjust... rinse and repeat until happy... Even tightened right down mine still VTA's a little too easily for my liking, thinking I may have to open it up and do some custom spring adjustments...
Hope this helps,
Chris.
'05 MPS 6, Liquid Silver Metallic, Leather, Sunroof.
DashHawk, TurboSmart Dualport, COBB SF SRI and TIP, CPe REM, 2XS Titanium SSP, Coolant bypass,Exedy OEM spec clutch, Corksport SS Braided Clutch Line, ROH Mantis 18*7.5+45.
Growing old is compulsory... Growing up is optional...
As with everything, read the instructions that come with it. They are pretty clear. See also my notes in another post written yesterday on http://www.ozmpsclub.com/forum/tech-...tml#post187196.
And a change in Intercooler will not change your BOV noise significantly, as noise is a function of the amount of air that is being discharged, which is in turn a function of your boost setting and any improvements you might have made in airflow through your induction system. That said, an FMIC setup holds a lot more air in the long plumbing so may prove a bit louder than a TMIC as all the air under pressure tries to find a fast way out. The Turbosmart should be set up on 50:50 or 100% Bypass. Do not set it to 100% VTA unless you want to set up a fuel cut which you won't be able to do without a tuneable ECU. You will get catastrophic backfires and wash all your lube off the cylinder walls with unburnt fuel, and soot up your cats faster than you can say "Meow".
The cap is 6 turns from fully closed out to fully open at the red or black indicator line on the BOV body, under the bottom edge of the cap. Start with it screwed fully in but do not tighten it hard, then unscrew 6 turns only to fully out until you just see the indicator line under the cap lower rim, then turn it in one full turn and start from there, pretty much as VICTA suggests as above. However, I doubt very much that you will need to or should screw it all the way in, as that is far too tight and you will be likely to stall your turbo as the pressure will not be dumped - or not dumped sufficiently.
I run mine on 100% bypass and set to fully out as I need to push all my air back the other way to keep my turbo spinning on throttle lift-off. I don't need to hear a BOV "chuff" noise. It just attracts attention. I get very few backfires. Your settings are unlikely to be the same, however, as I run different boost, exhaust, intercooler and plumbing, but I mention it to show that a full range of adjustments can be experienced, depending on specific setups.
And please fix that dreadful exhaust setup of yours before the cops yellow-sticker you - with good reason!! It has nothing good about it and everything bad.
Last edited by Doug_MPS6; 31-08-2011 at 12:27 PM.
CP_e Standback & PNP; CP_e 3" SS Downpipe; Corksport FMIC with Top-mount K&N filter & OEM Ram CAI; Turbosmart BOV; Dashhawk; Prosport Boost Guage; JBR solid shift bushes; DBA 4000 Wiper-Slot front rotors; Hawk Ferro-Carbon HPS Street front brake pads (@ 69,000km); Sumitomo HTRZIII's in 225/45 x 18
Nice post Doug. I learned something today!
(...looking for the "liked this post" button in Tapatalk...)
I'm running 50/50, thanks for the info guys!
Hey guys,
Just bumping an old thread. I know you guys hate getting technical with BOV's & BPV's as they're simple devices but I just want someone to clarify some info with me.
I was getting popping so I quickly went out to adjust the BOV tighter, it definitely improved... There's still however a slight pop when cruising in neutral and slightly hitting the gas so a bit of boost comes on (I'm doing this consecutively and only for testing purposes) and you can hear tiny pops. It's much better though,
I read a bit about LTFT and it seems like I have to go through a full tank so the ECU learns, then I will have to do a MAF CAL, hopefully then it'll go away?
Another factor is driving style, seems like it doesn't pop if I'm changing gears above 2500rpm with a bit of boost.
Finally, I do have a downpipe with 1 cat (200 cell) on a GEN2 (Not sure if that makes any differences)
Hope you guys can give me some answers.
Cheers.
Sorry. Forgot to mention. I'm running 50/50
Having your MAF calibrated within spec is a good idea but it wont fix your popping due to your VTA. I have a GFB venting only about 10% and don't get any backfires and my AFR's don't get too out of whack, maybe if you can reduce how much you are venting it might stop the popping. Not sure if you can control the amount you vent with the Turbosmart thou. Also in ATR under Shift Control Tables the last 4 load clutch in/out tables you can change everything to 1.0 which might help too.
Thanks @ledfootrob makes sense. Yeah I think the GFB is the way to go because of the utilization of having it 10/90, 20/80 etc etc. Doesn't alter AFRs too much.
I'm currently monitoring my LTFTs and hoping it adjusts to -6/+6 eventually. If it does then the popping should go away I hope. If not ill be looking to changing to a GFB or running full recirc
My LTFTs this morning were not good. -15.7 at idle start up and eventually adjusted to -15.4. Slight change in about 5-6 mins of driving. Goal is to have -6/+6 on ideal and partial throttle from memory.
I'll keep everyone updated.
Sounds like you will definently benefit from a MAF cal, 15% is too much. From where it is I don't think it'll go down to 6 or below.
You're smack bang on the money @ledfootrob it's only dropped to 14.8 now. Will have to do a maf cal. Never done one before so will have to looking into it.
Check out the shit it's left in my garage.
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Haha thats nothing mate! I've got a lot more put cardboard down on the ground if you're worried about dirting the floor
Holy crap!!! That is exactly the same thing that happened to me... It's scrubbed but I didn't think it'd punch a hole into the tubing.. I'll have to double check tonight if there is a hole. Didn't think much of it
Thanks @Lachlan
Keep you guys updated.
Quick question @ledfootrob if I was to do a maf cal for the turbosmart dual port BOV or pretty much any hybrid BOV while its running plumback. Drove it in all gears and really working the LTFT on mileage. Then did a maf cal.
If I was to take off the block off plate and ran it 50/50 without changing the spring tension I'm assuming the LTFT should be the same? Meaning no popping/backfire? Or will it still pop because its being vented to air a little?
Hopefully you know where I'm coming from.
No matter what your LTFT's are you will still get the popping when VTA. What your fuel trims (LTFT) are doing is adjusting to make sure your you hit your targeted air fuel ratio in closed loop. The afterfire/popping etc is because you VTA and the released air makes your car temporarily run rich after you shift.
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Ahhhh it all makes sense. That does clear things up.
I'm assuming your car obviously runs much more efficient in terms of fuel economy if you're plumbing back as the engine doesn't engine inject excess fuel?
Also the closer you are to 0 for LTFT it's more fuel efficient too? Or does it just means the fuels being burnt correctly instead of going to waste?
It's only usually on wot gear changes so fuel consumption is minimal.
Fuel trim means it is adding or removing fuel relative to the base map.
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Depends. The ECU can only correct so much. As long as your within 10% you wont notice a difference. As long as your AFR's aren't out it wont affect fuel usage and the small amount after you VTA wont affect it much either.
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Very good news guys! Finally got around to being confident enough to doing a maf cal. Went for a quick run and it's looking good.
I checked my STFT as I haven't ran the car for long enough to have an average LTFT. So I took the min no. + max no. And divided by two to get an average and I'm sitting +/- 1.9. Which is pretty good.
I'll keep my eye on it during the week.
But yeah thanks guys. Doubt the BOV itself affects the fuel trim in recirc but I guess my stage 2 SRI and TBE does.