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Thread: Impressions of Cobb dump pipe (install and performance) - Gen 1 MPS 3

  1. #1

    Default Impressions of Cobb dump pipe (install and performance) - Gen 1 MPS 3

    Some of you would have read my post to get some advice about installing a dump pipe

    http://www.ozmpsclub.com/forum/intak...preciated.html

    Well I'm happy to report that it went without too much troubles. I actually ordered this pipe from Protege Garage, 6 MONTHS AGO. **** me their service sucks. Only reason I got it from them was because they agreed to have it ceramic coated before shipment. Coating over in the states cost a shit load less than here.

    This isn't going to be a complete how-to as I didn't take any photos. I did follow a how-to that was written up on the US forums (Brief How-to: Downpipe removal) which assisted greatly. I've also saved this how-to in case the pictures disappear, so let me know if you want it (5megs).

    I did this job over a weekend, it totaled about 8hrs of actual work, but you would need a whole weekend if you want to give yourself a comfortable period. I also did this only using a jack and stands by myself, so it is possible to do this yourself at home.

    If you have worked on cars at home before, it should be doable. I wouldn't recommend this for someone who doesn't want to outlay the initial price of tools or someone that isn't mechanically minded.

    Equipment needed:
    • Socket set (must include the extenders - short 75mm and long 150mm)
    • Adjustable offset handle
    • Ring and Open ended spanners (8mm is a must) (ratcheting spanners are DEFINITELY recommended)
    • 14mm deep socket
    • O2 socket (bought from ebay)
    • Jack, Stands, wheel chocks (Not really possible on ramps as you need to lift the car after you've started)
    • Anti-seize (e.g. Loctite 771)
    • WD40 or equivalent (I used Loctite's Freeze and Release)
    • breaker bar (used a pole cut down to length lol)
    • universal joint type 1 and universal joint type 2 (I had type 1 with my socket set)
    • needle nose pliers
    • work gloves
    • safety glasses (lot of rocks and crap stuck under the car)


    Installation notes, in conjunction with the how-to:
    • I would suggest using plastic bags to block the hoses after you take the intercooler off
    • Take the manifold headsheild off (top and bottom) to gain access to the bolts holding the dump on. This is where the 8mm ring spanner really helps to get the bottom manifold shield off.
    • Its a major pain trying to tetris the shields out. I think I spent 15mins just trying to get the manifold shield out once I go the bolts off lol. I had problems taking the dump pipe heat shield out so left it there until the dump was off. Wear gloves for this as the heat shield has sharp edges.
    • You will need the 14mm deep socket when taking off some of the dump bolts. Taking these bolts off requires some thinking to use a combination of your sockets, extenders and universal joints. this is also where a 14mm ratcheting spanner really helps.
    • I left the primary O2 sensor (the dump one) connected to the harness. When it comes to installation, just make sure you twist the wire anti-clockwise a few times before screwing it back in
    • the secondary O2 sensor I left on the mid-pipe and just unplugged it from the harness. This way you can work at it off the car
    • Taking the 2 14mm bolts off the brace that holds the stock dump pipe to the engine block was a real pain. I removed a piece of metal which has 3x 12mm bolts (or could've been 14mm) which looked like it was there as a protector. After you remove this, you will have a lot more room to take these bolts off. I used the Adjustable offset handle in combination with the 14mm short/long sockets, and both universal joints. You will need a breaker bar for this as well.
    • my car had done 29000km and I did not experience any difficulty removing the O2 sensors. My dump bolts also came off without much problems, though 2/5 studs came out. It actually helps that the studs comes off when trying to take the stock dump off, as long as 1 stays on so that u can line it up


    Installation problems:
    • The secondary O2 sensor for me was about 2cm too short, even though Cobb claim to have it in the stock location. Not sure if it was a quality issue. Luckily I got away by taking the harness plug off its mounting point. huge sigh of relief.
    • I couldn't get the spring bolts back on that join the pipe to the cat back. No idea how to get it on using these spring bolts as there isn't enough thread. This might be just my stupidness but for the life of me I just cant figure it out.


    Impressions:

    Now time for the interesting part. Firstly NO CEL. Cobb have done a wonderful job in this regard. Actually, the whole pipe is a work of art. Minus the small problem with the secondary O2, everything else fit like a glove.

    Sound:

    I've only got this dump and a standard cat back. Upon cold start-up it is slightly louder. there is now a nice burble at idle. I've got a CPE 60duro REM and a Turbine Tech FEM and the engine noise still outweighs the sound of the exhaust at cold start up.

    In-cabin - I can only hear a subtle drone, once again I can't really hear it above the engine noise in all RPMS

    Outside - this is where it makes you smile. Even though you can't hear it inside, on the outside you really do hear a nice note. I find this a perfect level as I don't want to hear the exhaust inside when cruising, but still want it to be pronounced on the outside You still hear the 'whooshing' sound when in the higher RPMs and this is due to the mid muffler. Ruins the sound - must replace asap

    Performance:

    This mod is definitely NOT a power mod, but instead a supporting mod. I do not feel any extra power. However, the power delivery is A LOT smoother and QUICKER. The turbo spools effortlessly now and you can really feel the torque. In another word, the car is a lot more Responsive. It makes the car more lively and fun to drive. Exactly what I wanted.

    It's gotten rid of some of the hesitation when accelerating from part throttle as well.

    So to wrap it up, this is something that all turbo cars must do. I'm sure with tuning and/or a bigger turbo, the gains of an aftermarket dump pipe will be even more pronounced. However, even for a bolt-on car like mine, its been a fabulous investment.
    Last edited by lup15; 17-08-2011 at 08:00 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    Good write up but one thing i dont understand is that you say its definitely NOT a power mod. Every DP manufacturer & everyone that has previously fitted a DP states that its one of the BEST power mods possible on a MPS........

    Mazda 3 MPS Down Pipe
    CPE 3-inch Down-Pipe for Mazdaspeed 3 #MMS3DPO - Revolution Performance Motorsports!
    CobbTuning.com - MS3 SS 3" Downpipe

    Im pretty sure they wouldnt sell too many if they didnt increase torque & hp.
    Last edited by AD07; 17-08-2011 at 05:43 PM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
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    http://www.ozmpsclub.com/forum/attac...er-dyno1-2.jpg
    my before/after dyno of just a DP on my car (gen 1)

    sounds like typical PG service think jmac waited 4-5 months for just a SRI
    glad you're happy with the results, that's all that matter
    Newbie FAQ My Build Thread
    From stock, to GT3071, to substantially less modded, many lessons learned!
    3" HTP | 100 Cel DP | Autotech HPFP | AP V3 - Self Tuned on E20 | JBR RSB | CPE S2 REM | JBR Shifter Bushings

  4. #4

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    I guess what I mean is that you aren't going to get bucket loads of extra peak power by doing the dump. It's just freeing up the turbo to work more efficiently. Different to say if you did a tune, you are actually getting more power out of the car.

    I'm sure it does give extra power, but I wouldn't say that its the primary benefit of doing a dump.

    edit: just reading the marketing of those dump pipes, they were on stock cars or undefined modifications. I believe that if you did the dump on its own, you would get the advertised gains, but once you've done other restriction removing mods (intake and intercooler) the gains would most likely not be as dramatic, although there. speculation, but I'm just going off what I've felt on the butt dyno
    Last edited by lup15; 17-08-2011 at 08:06 PM.

  5. #5
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    it's a power mod...I got 12kwtw with my Best Mufflers Dp. But I agree, quicker spool, earlier torque (dyno sheets proved it).

    Nice write up

  6. #6
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    A bit of extra power with mine (according to the bum dyno), but made the car so much more responsive to throttle inputs, and a lot less asthmatic up top. Results will depend on what other supporting mods are in place, and where this is done in the mod progression.

  7. #7

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    i made more power with stock dp.. excellent write up thanks heaps.

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Impressions of Cobb dump pipe (install and performance) - Gen 1 MPS 3

    Quote Originally Posted by premhk View Post
    i made more power with stock dp.. excellent write up thanks heaps.
    Impressive contribution to a year old thread, well done
    Newbie FAQ My Build Thread
    From stock, to GT3071, to substantially less modded, many lessons learned!
    3" HTP | 100 Cel DP | Autotech HPFP | AP V3 - Self Tuned on E20 | JBR RSB | CPE S2 REM | JBR Shifter Bushings

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    The added power you don't notice, the quicker spool and better response you do feel tho.

  10. #10

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    Yeah i know what you mean Reeds. If you free up your exhausts too much ie 3 inch turbo back, you pretty much lose any back pressure which for a 4 banger, is important. Like HPF said to me, big exhaust might = nm loss but kw gain. I found the stock dp with one CAT delete was the perfect decision for a stock turbo as it needs that backpressure.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Impressions of Cobb dump pipe (install and performance) - Gen 1 MPS 3

    I thought turbo = backpressure

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