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Thread: Operation: Car Make Go Faster

  1. #21

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    for adjustable shocks,
    In your case, id be looking at something like the KW version 2 or 3. Or HKS sell the "hypermax III' for our cars. parts alone are gonna be around $2000-$2500. Try tunehouse for the HKS ones. They are a distributer.
    If you go down the road of coilovers get quality ones that are fully servicable.
    Or for shocks alone. The Koni yellows can be had from Corksport for around $1000 to your door for the set.
    Id personally go with the Konis. The spring rates on the Coilovers are going to be pretty stiff.
    If you want to go for a ride in my car with the H&Rs at some point just let me know.

  2. #22
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    Last service I got at tunehouse they saw that I had fitted a set of track tyres to the car and the first thing they asked is if I had considered a suspension kit. I was reluctant due to costs and having a bad effect on comfort/practicality.
    Camber/Caster adjustments added to the stock suspension might be a goer but i've seen some seriously mixed reviews, and fitting them can mean cutting shit which I don't really want to do.

    They also suggested better rotors so I stop destroying my brake fluid, because in their words "I cain it a bit"
    Rotors won't really get faster laps tho, so ill hold off upgrading them until my oem ones wear out.

  3. #23

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    Lowering a car is a visual thing mostly.
    Lowered springs are generally stiffer. This is why the car will handle better.

    The centre of gravity isn't the issue. It is the roll centre of the car you need to think about.

    Talk to a "real" performance suspension shop and they can describe, in detail, what centre of gravity and roll centres play in handling.
    Roll centres really need to describe using visual diagrams.



    Have a brief read here to understand a few things about weight transfer.
    This website has quite a bit of valuable info too.

    Weight Transfers

    I would change the brakes/pads/rotors first and foremost, then start with adjustable suspension items. This gives you understanding on how the dynamics of the vehicle reacts to certain forces etc and it'll improve your knowledge to make informed decision on cornering/handling while on the track.
    Last edited by 2XS; 21-06-2011 at 08:08 PM.
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  4. #24
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    You will need a pit crew soon.

  5. #25

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    Heasman Suspension over on Princess hwy at Sydenham does wheel aligns to track specs, and corner weighting i heard

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by MPS2NV View Post
    You will need a pit crew soon.
    You are all my pit crew right now.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reedy View Post
    You are all my pit crew right now.
    In which case may god have mercy on your soul.........




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  8. #28
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    New stuff to look into:

    Benefits of racing fuel/octane boosters at track days? Does the car need to be tuned with this stuff for it to make any real difference?

    Anyone know what suspension kit did MRT use in their car for the Motor Track comparison?

    Suspension wise I want to get a grip on kits and parts you need to get the following adjustments:
    Camber
    Caster
    Spring Rate/Compression/Rebound, need to spend big to get fully adjustable gear.

    The front camber kit that corksport are developing raises front ride height by 6-7mm, quite minor. I've got a feeling that the ability to tweak just these settings without replacing the springs/shocks could yield some pretty good gains for quite a small outlay. My number 1 priority right now is to reduce that power understeer and from what I am reading that means I want Camber, Caster, and stiffer rear springs (relative to the front).
    Last edited by Reedy; 21-06-2011 at 10:11 PM.

  9. #29

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    The coilovers I sell are bump/rebound abjustable (like alot on the market) and can have camber front top plates included.
    There is also a choice of spring rates to choose from (not for the feint of heart)

  10. #30

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    Check out this guys blog, he had a Gen1 track car which he went into great detail to get it handling right, might be good info source for you Go Fast Adventure » Willow Springs

  11. #31

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    The MRT car had:
    Eibach springs, stock shocks, whiteline front and rear swaybars, some front bushes that affect the castor and a performance alignment .

  12. #32
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    Seems like a fairly sensible suspension setup. That car went 2 seconds faster than I have, with worse tyres than I have so that's a good target to aim for. They did have a V8 supercar driver behind the wheel tho.

    Ill have a performance alignment done for my next track day. I just need a day when it doesn't rain to lay down a better time.

  13. #33
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    One thing overlooked, what about newdiff? quafe.. would help with traction in and out of coners

  14. #34
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    Ditch the stock shocks if you get aftermarket springs. I ran the Eibachs and it killed the OEM shocks. Tried grajy's Koni yellows and King Springs combo over the weekend and was impressed.

    But...in reality for what you want suspension-wise, grab coilovers. I'm a noob with them, but the fact I can adjust the ride height, spring preload and rebound in 30-60 mins is awesome. For you doing track work, the setup flexibility they would give you would be well utilised. The handling improvement is easily noticeable, and would be worth heaps of time on the track.

  15. #35
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    I had a bit of a discussion about Diffs with Mitch on the weekend actually. I have had people ask me about this at the track too and it's something I really need to into further. Will add it to the list.

  16. #36

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    Not to forget you can corner wight the car with coilovers if you're really serious about cornering performance...

    Another advantage about coilovers is that you can set the car to softest setting for the drive to the track, once there you can firm it up and if it's raised you can wind them down, do your laps, then at the end of the meet raise and soften it up for the drive back home. A close mate of mine who used to track did exactly this with his Integra Type R, he also drove on street tyres to and from the track since he had a second set of rims with semis which he would swap over once there, that helped him preserve the semis for the track rather than waste them on the long trips to winton, phillip island etc etc.
    Do Not Fear Torque Steer...

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  17. #37
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    Yea my workmate has coilovers on his WRX that he does that with too.

    Coilovers aren't cheap tho. I'd want to know that it would be worth X seconds so I can make an educated cost/benefit decision.

  18. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Malicioso View Post
    Not to forget you can corner wight the car with coilovers if you're really serious about cornering performance...

    Another advantage about coilovers is that you can set the car to softest setting for the drive to the track, once there you can firm it up and if it's raised you can wind them down, do your laps, then at the end of the meet raise and soften it up for the drive back home. A close mate of mine who used to track did exactly this with his Integra Type R, he also drove on street tyres to and from the track since he had a second set of rims with semis which he would swap over once there, that helped him preserve the semis for the track rather than waste them on the long trips to winton, phillip island etc etc.
    With the MPS I believe you need to drop the lower control arm in order to adjust the ride height of the rears.

    I have the H&Rs fitted to mine, which is essentially a Bilstein shock + H&R spring, I only have ride height adjustability and they dont shake the filings from my teeth on normal roads, unlike some of the more track specific options out there.
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  19. #39
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    From the sounds of it my track setup would involve lowering the front by a couple of cm's and setting the rear to super hard. Rear end ride height can stay the same so lack of adjustability there isn't a problem.

  20. #40

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    Well when you think about it all cars that compete in superlap run coilovers, they enable you to dial in and fine tune the settings with the more expensive sets being able to handle the punishment of ripple strips and loads put onto them.

    I have heard that the KW coilovers are a good buy for both the street and track, they don't sacrifice much comfort and are made for quality rather than quantity with a premium of course, another thing to consider is servicing of the units in case something goes wrong, I know Tein offers this in Australia through Fulcrum suspension (i think), but if you wanted to get real serious about it and can spend the $$$ you can look into a custom set of coilovers like DMS. But you're right you're better looking into it further and weigh up the costs and if it is truly worth it.

    Also keep in mind the un-sprung weight reduction gained with coilovers and also think how a set of shocks with spring would cope on the track, last thing you want is a blown Koni shock! Not saying they're bad but coilovers tend to have a broader range of travel than a set of shocks, I also know first hand that KingsSprings would be too soft for the track, every car I have driven feels too unstable, my theory is that their spring rates or coil material is too soft.

    I remember reading an article on a magazine going into fine detail about coilovers for each specific application i.e. drag, drift, track and rally Not sure if I can find it, would have served as a real good read...

    ---------- Post added at 02:26 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:20 PM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by MattMPS3 View Post
    With the MPS I believe you need to drop the lower control arm in order to adjust the ride height of the rears.

    I have the H&Rs fitted to mine, which is essentially a Bilstein shock + H&R spring, I only have ride height adjustability and they dont shake the filings from my teeth on normal roads, unlike some of the more track specific options out there.
    Well BCs have the rear spring perch at the top of the spring rather than at the bottom, so all you have to do is to jack it up, loosen up the locking perch and then wind the other perch upwards and lock it back in (to go lower), and wind it down to go up.

    The fronts (if they're bottom adjustable coilovers), you can take the wheel off, loosen up the locking perch, loosen the 14mm bolt on the back of the knuckle, on the rear opening you have to slightly split it open to free up the bottom section of the coilover and turn that same section of the coilover clockwise or counter clockwise depending whether you want to raise or lower the front.

    A little bit hard to explain without images as a reference.
    Do Not Fear Torque Steer...

    ZOOM F*cking ZOOM Biatch!!

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