Yeah I found it funny because I deal with the IT equivalent every day
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Yeah I found it funny because I deal with the IT equivalent every day
Sent from my iPhone using TapaTalk
Yeah that's about it.
Them: It felt funny while turning hard.
Me: How fast were you going?
Them: Dunno. But it was fast! (Wow! That is helpful).
Me: Was the car leaning to one side overly?
Them: I think so, but not sure.
Me: Do you have the wheel alignment sheet from after your alignment was done the tyre shop for me to look at from last Thursday?
Them: No I don't cos I didn't do it cos I rang out of money this week. I'll do it next week.
Me: FFS!!! (Seriously? Do I even need to go further? Want a smack in the head?)
I feel your pain bro.
Can do.
Might even organise a skidpan if you are willing to travel to Gympie for the day.
Last edited by projectrracing; 13-07-2011 at 06:51 PM.
Ok i has my first good run with them today and wow... I did the run from Healesville to Marysville and the coil's felt amazing maybe i had a little too much rear stiffness (20/32) and the fronts were 15/32. Maybe 18 fronts and 20 rear not sure. Very good grip and ride was superb on the spur.
Now though there is a creaking noise coming from both front struts, first was the left and now the right too. It happens alot and seems to be on compression of the springs like on speed bumps and dip in the road. And now also there is spring noise coming from the front left when turning and straightening up but only on tight corners like roundabouts and car parks not sure what it is i think it could also be spring related. I'm going to get it looked at soon hopefully nothing serious .
MPSX-treme
2006 MPS Sports True Red - HP-F Mazedit tune + Other go fast bits - DGR Coilovers + Semi Slicks - Numerous Sure Motorsport Additions - Dashhawk
It'll be the bearing under the top plate.
Check the locking nuts on the bottom of the springs perch and bottom adjustable collar. You will find they have come loose I had to tap the locking nuts with a hammer/chisel on my last set on the Neo !
---------- Post added at 06:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:35 PM ----------
If they are loose Get a measuring tape and check mm distance make sure they have not moved up or down
Many want Power not many hold it long.........
did that run with Bakis today and i must say his car looks SWEEEEEET
Achievements
2009 Jamboree Street Compact Winner
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12.3 seconds @ 111Mph.
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Another Mazda 3 MPS - Almost fully bolted - Waiting for a turbo upgrade - The weekend hack.
Toyota Yaris - Coilovers, rollcage, raceseats, harnesses, 18s - Also waiting for a turbo upgrade.
2011 AWD Territory - White and Slightly lowered on 22s - The tow car.
2011 RWD Territory - Black on black and slammed on 22s - The family transporter.
MPSX-treme
2006 MPS Sports True Red - HP-F Mazedit tune + Other go fast bits - DGR Coilovers + Semi Slicks - Numerous Sure Motorsport Additions - Dashhawk
worn/damaged bearing = creaking noise with turning wheel wheel 1 direction and back normally.
my old D2s did it after about 3.5 years.
Ok thanks for that i'm starting to think that other noise is the springs have gone captive again :S, might need a new measure to secure the spring seat in the higher setting after i lowered them.
How would a bearing like that go? As in what would i have done to damage it in such a way? harsh bumps?
Harsh bumps shouldn't cause it.
If the bearing failed, it could possibly be a basic manufacturing flaw.
MPSX-treme
2006 MPS Sports True Red - HP-F Mazedit tune + Other go fast bits - DGR Coilovers + Semi Slicks - Numerous Sure Motorsport Additions - Dashhawk
Bit of an update and bump as this has turned into the default DGR Coilovers discussion topic - I'm still working through some stuff in order to nail the setup on these, and will be recommencing next week when I get home and can work on the car.
If anyone is getting clunking/banging noises when turning and you've checked that the spring perch and shock height collar adjustment is done up tight, which is the first culprit for 'springy' noises (see Pic A), then the next culprit will be loose 5mm hex head bolts in the pillow tops/adjustable camber tops which are used for camber adjustment if fitted (see Pic B). These were very loose on mine, sometimes only finger tight, a bit of Loctite applied to each thread and tightening them back up did wonders for shutting up the racket and keeping everything together. But...if you undo the 3 strut mounting nuts to drop the strut out of the tower so you can rotate the shock body and get to the camber bolts (pic B and C) you'll screw your alignment up and need to get it redone, so be warned
Pic A - Spring and Shock Height Adjustment collars
Pic B - Camber Adjustment hex head bolts
Pic C - Strut mounting nuts
Additionally, I've been talking to some guys in the US who have installed these on their Mazda 3's, or setup them up for others, and will be trying a few suggestions that they have given me based on the feedback they have provided when I described some of the things about my setup. The first suggestion was to grab a set of adjustable endlinks for the front to reduce the preload on the front sway bar when lowered. I had noticed how under tension the OEM endlinks and sway bar was running my current ride height, which is another major source of noise (i.e. "the big clunk in the front suspension") and limits some of the fine adjustment which can be done. So when the endlinks are installed I'll let you know if they have made a noticable difference. For a smidge over $100 I figured it was a cheap thing to try.
Also, I maybe trying some different spring and bumpstop combinations on the DGR shock body (i.e. progressive rate springs), but will be starting with the endlinks and some other adjustments and going from there.
be interested to see how you go with progressive springs have thought about this myself, will follow your progress .
Yep, getting some major bumps/groans when turning hard...
Tighten your spring perches and shock height collars first up, then at the front the strut mounting nuts. On the rear it's a little more difficult to tighten stuff but just reach under there and do your best.
Out of interest, have a look at your front endlinks and see if they're hitting on anything.
I was lucky with my kit they came with adjustable end links
Same boat man, I've tighten everything and locktighted everything, have done the strut mounting nuts yet though will have a look the rears on mine are awesome just the left front is average as all the issues i've had are with that side.
The endlinks for the sway bar yeah?
---------- Post added at 10:36 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:32 AM ----------
Also just got a new noise on blue stone surface really bad grinding noise from the front... It's not noticeable else its like bluestone or bumpy roads sounds like the engine is resting on a metal object??? Maybe the sway bar is knocking on something? I've been away for 4 days and it was fine for the first 15km and turn too shit after that...
Doubt its the coils but thought i'd mention it
MPSX-treme
2006 MPS Sports True Red - HP-F Mazedit tune + Other go fast bits - DGR Coilovers + Semi Slicks - Numerous Sure Motorsport Additions - Dashhawk
Yep, the endlinks which attach the shock body to the sway bar. There are two spots to check for rubbing and knocking.
As per the spots in this pic below, check that there's no evidence of rub marks on the inner guard (endlink rubbing on the guard) or on the rubber grommet coming off the endlink mount on the shock(wheel rubbing). If you see rubbing on either surface you'll have to loosen your lower shock mount and twist the shock around to get it into a clear spot.
Also, check here down the bottom of the endlink:
With regards to your new grinding noise, check your wheel nuts. It could be a slightly loose wheel moving around and rubbing on the shock body, especially if like me your inner wheel and shock body clearance is a matter of mm. I found this one out through experience!