Oil type/changes

[dazza]

Thinner oil will just be more easily passed through the already poor stock turbo seals.

[mymps11]

guys the first numerical is how it flows when cold the second is when hot therefore whether u use a 0w 40 or a 5w 40 it is still a 40weight oil when hot!!!! running a 0w 40 will just give better cold start protection, im just stating facts. imo a 10w 30 is too thick at start up"10w" and too thin "30" when hot. 40 weight oils in full synthetic are the way to go in these engines all year round, mainly because of fuel dilution from being turboed and direct injected. modern synthetics(quality ones) dont shear down as easy as minerals, so full synthetic is a must.

[slixx]

Actually 10w will give more protection than a 0w hence because its thicker when cold than 0w

0w40 will give less protection when cold than 10w40 and I don't live in California so in winter I def want at least 10w in Melb

Peter "SLIXX"

[Jmac]

guys the first numerical is how it flows when cold the second is when hot therefore whether u use a 0w 40 or a 5w 40 it is still a 40weight oil when hot!!!! running a 0w 40 will just give better cold start protection, im just stating facts. imo a 10w 30 is too thick at start up"10w" and too thin "30" when hot. 40 weight oils in full synthetic are the way to go in these engines all year round, mainly because of fuel dilution from being turboed and direct injected. modern synthetics(quality ones) dont shear down as easy as minerals, so full synthetic is a must.

read the manual... its based on the climate at your location.

Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using Tapatalk 2

[mymps11]

im just stating facts 10w is thicker at cold start then 0w and 5w yes, why do u want it thicker? thats the problem ryte there, when an engine is cold u want the oil lighter so it flows to the bearings and coats the cylinder walls. granted a 0w is what some would argue excessive for our climate, however if u get into the technical side of things even a 0w can only reduce wear so much at start up, its the nature of the beast. oil is thicker when cold and thins when it gets hot, no doubt a 40 weight once hot is i think needed in these engines, especially in summer heat and if driven hard.

[Jmac]

There are also drawbacks to a lower weighted oil otherwise why would higher weight oils even be on the market.

Sent from my S4 while I'm tappin dat' glass.

[Jmac]

No.

I would only use a 0w oil if it were parked outside in under -10deg C all the time

A 5w is like water when its cold.

I may consider a 10w-50 or 15w-50 if i were beating the p!ss out of it around a track every few weeks though

Just my 2c though

Doc

Thus guy knows what he is talking about. Each to their own.

Sent from my S4 while I'm tappin dat' glass.

[bd581]

Problem with too thin oil, won't clean and cool as well.
Yes, oil does more than just lubricate.
There is a lot more I can say about oil viscosity and synthetic vs mineral oil, but I don't see the point.

Fact is, read the manual, make your own mind up. Personally I go with what the qualified engineers and lab technicians who work for the companies and spend millions of dollars and thousands of hours getting right.

100,000km on mine using 15W-50 semi synthetic oil. Regular oil changes. All within Mazda specs and recomendations. And absolutely no problems. None of the problems I see often here with engine of less KM. so obviously nothing wrong with what I was doing.

[Reedy]

I use 5W-40, race my car regularly and replace it every 3 months, Your warranty will be compromised if you use anything less than 5W-30 - it says this in the manual.

[son of eevil]

It'll be 0w-30 or 5w-30 full synethic for me next oil change.

I had a quick read through and there are an aweful lot of people giving advice on a topic they don't know very much about. I'm not going to name anyone but you should really read up on it before giving advice.

Take 5-10 minutes and have a read through this. Motor Oil 101 - Bob is the Oil Guy

TL;DR. Use the lowest weight you can for your first digit and (usually) a 30 for your 2nd. Why? Read the article.

[dazza]

There are alot of guys running heavier diesel based oils for our car because they simply protect better for the DISI engine. I've read numerous oil analysis tests on bob is the oil guy where the thicker diesel oils protect far better than regular synthetics. "Because of gasoline blowby in these direct inject motors, the oil tends to get diluted to lower viscosity during the oil change cycle. So if you start with 5W30 it becomes more like 5W20 at about 3 to 4,000 miles. Also our engines mechanically shear the oil molecules especially the viscosity improvers VII because of tight tolerances. "

[mymps11]

Thankyou very much, this is where my facts come from

[LRRH]

Those who are in the know....what do you think about Motul 4100 Turbolight 10W 40. This is what my regular mechanic uses. I change it every 5,000ks

[chef]

Those who are in the know....what do you think about Motul 4100 Turbolight 10W 40. This is what my regular mechanic uses. I change it every 5,000ks

Penrite 10 tenth full synthetic is the cheapest group 5 oil available and castrol that's my 2c for best and also all castrol is 20% off at repo at moment

[kpmps]

Well i've just read this whole thing. For me, its now down to either:

Penrite HPR 5 (5W-40) Penrite Oil - A Better Class Of Oil

or

Penrite Racing 10 (10W-40) SHEAR FREE Penrite Oil - A Better Class Of Oil


The vehicle is driven daily short distances (two 15km runs) but I do the odd happy laps and sprint night every 2 months or so.

Oil gets changed every 5k due to the short distances, but have previously left the choice of oil up to my mechanic (mobil 5W-40)

I'm leaning towards the racing 10 beacause of the shear free factor.

[chef]

Penrite racing 10 is a good oil that's what I use, there is a old article somewhere about penrite having the least amount of metal wear and Mobil was one of the worst

[son of eevil]

Picked up a Nulon 5W - 40 in lieu of a 0w - 40.

Went to change the oil today to find some no key has put the dump plug on too tight, didn't matter what I did at one stage I used a hydrolic jack pushing on the breaker to try and crack it, just ended up with the breaker bar touching the engine...

[auscer]

Well i've just read this whole thing. For me, its now down to either:

Penrite HPR 5 (5W-40) Penrite Oil - A Better Class Of Oil

or

Penrite Racing 10 (10W-40) SHEAR FREE Penrite Oil - A Better Class Of Oil


The vehicle is driven daily short distances (two 15km runs) but I do the odd happy laps and sprint night every 2 months or so.

Oil gets changed every 5k due to the short distances, but have previously left the choice of oil up to my mechanic (mobil 5W-40)

I'm leaning towards the racing 10 beacause of the shear free factor.

I have been using the hpr 5 for a long time now its cheaper than most and its a good fully synthetic oil

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[KFuNk]

Well i've just read this whole thing. For me, its now down to either:

Penrite HPR 5 (5W-40) Penrite Oil - A Better Class Of Oil

or

Penrite Racing 10 (10W-40) SHEAR FREE Penrite Oil - A Better Class Of Oil


The vehicle is driven daily short distances (two 15km runs) but I do the odd happy laps and sprint night every 2 months or so.

Oil gets changed every 5k due to the short distances, but have previously left the choice of oil up to my mechanic (mobil 5W-40)

I'm leaning towards the racing 10 beacause of the shear free factor.

Catrol Edge 5w40 - Beautiful stuff

[skeetskeet]

thread revival haha

@kpmps im going to go with your options :

Penrite HPR 5 (5W-40) Penrite Oil - A Better Class Of Oil

or

Penrite Racing 10 (10W-40) SHEAR FREE Penrite Oil - A Better Class Of Oil

what did you end up using?