Thinner oil will just be more easily passed through the already poor stock turbo seals.
Thinner oil will just be more easily passed through the already poor stock turbo seals.
guys the first numerical is how it flows when cold the second is when hot therefore whether u use a 0w 40 or a 5w 40 it is still a 40weight oil when hot!!!! running a 0w 40 will just give better cold start protection, im just stating facts. imo a 10w 30 is too thick at start up"10w" and too thin "30" when hot. 40 weight oils in full synthetic are the way to go in these engines all year round, mainly because of fuel dilution from being turboed and direct injected. modern synthetics(quality ones) dont shear down as easy as minerals, so full synthetic is a must.
Actually 10w will give more protection than a 0w hence because its thicker when cold than 0w
0w40 will give less protection when cold than 10w40 and I don't live in California so in winter I def want at least 10w in Melb
Peter "SLIXX"
MY16 WRX STi Crystal White Pearl
-= Rally Armour Flaps - 2XS Muffler Delete =-
FG FPV F6 MKII Vixen - SOLD
-= Bluepower SRI - ID1000 Injectors - Venom Cat - XCAL3 - ProcessWest Stg2 Intercooler - 359 RWKW=-
CX9 Grand Touring Stormy Blue
-= The rolling armchair =-
6 MPS Velocity Red - SOLD
-=Cat Back Exhaust - Pirelli PZero=-
3 MPS Aurora Blue - SOLD
-=PG SRI - PG Inlet - ETS TMIC - GFB Hybrid BOV - Best Mufflers DP - Eibach Pro - AccessPort STG2 - Autotech HPFP - ITV22 - Michelin PSS=-
im just stating facts 10w is thicker at cold start then 0w and 5w yes, why do u want it thicker? thats the problem ryte there, when an engine is cold u want the oil lighter so it flows to the bearings and coats the cylinder walls. granted a 0w is what some would argue excessive for our climate, however if u get into the technical side of things even a 0w can only reduce wear so much at start up, its the nature of the beast. oil is thicker when cold and thins when it gets hot, no doubt a 40 weight once hot is i think needed in these engines, especially in summer heat and if driven hard.
There are also drawbacks to a lower weighted oil otherwise why would higher weight oils even be on the market.
Sent from my S4 while I'm tappin dat' glass.
MY16 WRX STi Crystal White Pearl
-= Rally Armour Flaps - 2XS Muffler Delete =-
FG FPV F6 MKII Vixen - SOLD
-= Bluepower SRI - ID1000 Injectors - Venom Cat - XCAL3 - ProcessWest Stg2 Intercooler - 359 RWKW=-
CX9 Grand Touring Stormy Blue
-= The rolling armchair =-
6 MPS Velocity Red - SOLD
-=Cat Back Exhaust - Pirelli PZero=-
3 MPS Aurora Blue - SOLD
-=PG SRI - PG Inlet - ETS TMIC - GFB Hybrid BOV - Best Mufflers DP - Eibach Pro - AccessPort STG2 - Autotech HPFP - ITV22 - Michelin PSS=-
Problem with too thin oil, won't clean and cool as well.
Yes, oil does more than just lubricate.
There is a lot more I can say about oil viscosity and synthetic vs mineral oil, but I don't see the point.
Fact is, read the manual, make your own mind up. Personally I go with what the qualified engineers and lab technicians who work for the companies and spend millions of dollars and thousands of hours getting right.
100,000km on mine using 15W-50 semi synthetic oil. Regular oil changes. All within Mazda specs and recomendations. And absolutely no problems. None of the problems I see often here with engine of less KM. so obviously nothing wrong with what I was doing.
2013 Ford Focus ST - Performance Blue, Cobb AP
Gone 2006 3 MPS Sports - True Red, Koni FSD shocks, in dash OEM look Ebay GPS/DVD, Hypertech, RX8 Rims
I use 5W-40, race my car regularly and replace it every 3 months, Your warranty will be compromised if you use anything less than 5W-30 - it says this in the manual.
It'll be 0w-30 or 5w-30 full synethic for me next oil change.
I had a quick read through and there are an aweful lot of people giving advice on a topic they don't know very much about. I'm not going to name anyone but you should really read up on it before giving advice.
Take 5-10 minutes and have a read through this. Motor Oil 101 - Bob is the Oil Guy
TL;DR. Use the lowest weight you can for your first digit and (usually) a 30 for your 2nd. Why? Read the article.
There are alot of guys running heavier diesel based oils for our car because they simply protect better for the DISI engine. I've read numerous oil analysis tests on bob is the oil guy where the thicker diesel oils protect far better than regular synthetics. "Because of gasoline blowby in these direct inject motors, the oil tends to get diluted to lower viscosity during the oil change cycle. So if you start with 5W30 it becomes more like 5W20 at about 3 to 4,000 miles. Also our engines mechanically shear the oil molecules especially the viscosity improvers VII because of tight tolerances. "
Last edited by dazza; 30-06-2013 at 08:36 PM.
'05 6 MPS | BNR S3 | JBR 3.5" Intake | Corksport Airbox | CP-E 3.25" TMIC | M2 DP | CP-E CBE | CP-E/TT Diff Mounts | Autotech HPFP Internals | JBR REM, PMM, TMM | SURE Shortcut | SURE Countershift | SURE Anchors | Denso ITV22s | JBR TIGs | EGR Delete | Coolant Bypass | PTP Inj Seals | MD OCC | H&R Springs | Bilstein B8 Shocks | Car-LED Tails | Badgeless Grille | 6000k HIDs | OZ Ultraleggera 18x8 +48
Thankyou very much, this is where my facts come from
Those who are in the know....what do you think about Motul 4100 Turbolight 10W 40. This is what my regular mechanic uses. I change it every 5,000ks
Last edited by LRRH; 08-07-2013 at 01:42 PM.
//BNR3//HDI FMIC//HTP 3" intake//
// Ecutek tune//CPE DP/ HPFP//
// Tein performance street Coilovers //
// Whiteline RSB// 240kwATW bum Dyno //
Well i've just read this whole thing. For me, its now down to either:
Penrite HPR 5 (5W-40) Penrite Oil - A Better Class Of Oil
or
Penrite Racing 10 (10W-40) SHEAR FREE Penrite Oil - A Better Class Of Oil
The vehicle is driven daily short distances (two 15km runs) but I do the odd happy laps and sprint night every 2 months or so.
Oil gets changed every 5k due to the short distances, but have previously left the choice of oil up to my mechanic (mobil 5W-40)
I'm leaning towards the racing 10 beacause of the shear free factor.
'06 True Red 3 MPS Sports. Stock!
Penrite racing 10 is a good oil that's what I use, there is a old article somewhere about penrite having the least amount of metal wear and Mobil was one of the worst
Picked up a Nulon 5W - 40 in lieu of a 0w - 40.
Went to change the oil today to find some no key has put the dump plug on too tight, didn't matter what I did at one stage I used a hydrolic jack pushing on the breaker to try and crack it, just ended up with the breaker bar touching the engine...
~ Radiant Ebony 2005 Mazda 6 MPS ~
SURE REM - SURE TIP & SRI - Corksport 3" DP - Custom Exhaust - DGR Coilovers - SuperPro RSB - CX Racing FMIC with a 2xs touch - 2xs SSP - NGK Iridium Plugs - Autotech FP internals - AWR TMM & PMM Engine mounts - COBB AP - Hankook Ventus S1 EVO2 225/45/18 on custom painted stock black rims - Gold Brake calipers
Dagher Tuned 195kw atw / 425nm
thread revival haha
@kpmps im going to go with your options :
Penrite HPR 5 (5W-40) Penrite Oil - A Better Class Of Oil
or
Penrite Racing 10 (10W-40) SHEAR FREE Penrite Oil - A Better Class Of Oil
what did you end up using?
Mazda 6 MPS Velocity Red
CS REM +HDi FMIC+fmic water squirters + 3inch DP +Cat Back Exhaust + 3 inch TIP + Corksport airbox +Corksport MAF housing +K&N Pod +
BNR S2 + cobb EBCS + 3 bar Map sensor +Cobb APv2 - custom tune
Lenso dc6 wheels in gloss white + rear sway bar + TT diff mounts+ lowered on ISC coilovers