Printable View
Does anyone have detailed directions on how to uninstall a dump pipe on a 6?
I'm looking for specifics - re: whether I need to tilt the engine, which parts to remove, etc.
I have a general idea, but wouldnt mind someone posting a DIY on a de-install and install.
Thanks in advance.
Hi mate,
The Corksport website has some instructions
CORKSPORT 'Power Series' Mazdaspeed 6 Downpipe
Also a number of members have installed this themselves, DougMPS6 has a 6 and done this himself, also 2XS is a specialist in this area. May be worth a PM to these members :)
FYI (if this helps at all) Instructions for the CP-E Downpipe Install
Note: For the LHD mazdaspeed6
Attachment 4079
Hi MAZDA6MPS, The CP_e DP install instructions are basically fine. Definitely be prepared to undo top right and bottom engine mounts and drop the engine forward. Be careful when you lean it right forward to avoid damage to the radiator assembly and fans. Keep the jacks in place so you can move the engine about as you tweeze the DP and its shields out. Remove all the manifold heat shields and clutch master cylinder heat shield. Remove the cat O2 sensors entirely, from the plug ends under the battery box and turbo inlet pipe - it saves twisting up and breaking a lead, which is still possible even when using an O2 sensor socket. Keep them somewhere safe. Be patient lubricating them and unscrewing them, in and out a little at a time until they unscrew freely.
I found even then it was tricky to get the stock DP out without scratching the firewall until I undid all the nuts holding on the heat shrouds, and carefully peeled them off the DP one at a time - it is a @*%$! bitch due to odd shapes and studs and mounts sticking out. Remove the old DP mount bracket (gold coloured) or you will get hung up on it forever as you try to get all the old bits out. You need to access it from underneath, largely by feel. Make sure you have a torch throughout all of this process anyway. Some of the shields you have to drop out through the limited space at the bottom. Then it is easier to get out but you still have to hold your mouth right.
The old DP comes out the top - gently and slowly and by carefully rotating as required to ease it out and avoid scratching the firewall and messing up the fixed foil insulation there. The new DP goes in easily, from top or bottom, depending on how high the car is off the ground. The inner studs are tricky to torque up but it is achievable. You may have to access the stud nuts from below with a long wrench. You can re-use the turbo gasket if you don't mess it up getting the old DP out.
I found a 3/8" drive socket set better through the whole job as the drive extensions take up less room than 1/2". Get extra extensions of a variety of lengths. It saves some teeth grinding.
Good luck! :-)
Pretty much the same as above for me, except:
I've removed all the DPs through the bottom, by removing the tailshaft (and maybe the input shaft flange, it bolts on from memory) you don't need to rock the motor at all.
step 1) Drive car to Best ufflers
Step 2) Leave car with Chis
Step 3) Listen to swearing as you leave the workshop
Step 4) Return to Best Mufflers, pick up car.. listen to Chris rant and rave about Mazda's
Step 5) Drive home faster than you could before.. making a little bit better noise in the process.
Step 6) Take car back to Best Mufflers for a retorque, and listen to more Mazda love from Chris
:p
ADENDUM: after step 2 Run out of workshop as Chris enters step 3 :rofl2::rofl2:
i wish, it would mean a 1600km drive to NSW from Melbourne return + i don't mind getting my hands dirty and all cut up..!Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc
Expect it to be a 2 day job for your first attempt then.
My very first 3 was 8 hrs, just to remove mine. It takes me around 4hrs to remove and refit now (pending cooler engine bay temps) and mine is around 1hr, due to the lack of TMIC and heatsheilding and acc.
Agreed. It took me the best part of a day to tweeze my DP out. Half of that was getting recalcitrant heat sheilds off the DP itself (there are two halves) and cleared away from the brackets and odd projections on the DP body. It'll elicit some %$#*&^%@ from you. All the top stuff comes off pretty quickly. The learning bit takes some time, peering at things in the bowels of the engine bay with a mirror and a torch to see how to undo them and where the fastenings are. Fiddling with jacks to get the engine set right can take time too. When you've done it once it'll be quicker next time. I just swore I would never have a "next time" for a stock DP. I still have my original but it can go with the car if and when I sell it.
Buy some Betadine before you start! And a good bright but thin (pref LED) torch and mirror so you can look upside down and all around the turbo studs and manifold and other obscured spots; and an extensible magnet and flexible claw to grab stuff that you drop in hard-to-get-at places. Get the car up nice and high (and safe on stands) so you have room to move properly underneath, and maybe a floor creeper, although I found thick flattened-out packing box cardboard better as it is slippery, slightly insulating against the cold floor, and you can manoeuvre on it and it doesn't hog the 2" of extra height the creeper needs.