Timing not lining up???

Hi all,

I have just completed the timing chain change (guides, chain, actuator, washers, sprockets, oil pump, etc) and I have always has the issue of the cam alignment plate not being able to just 'slot' in, unless I bring in the cam slightly with a spanner.

Also, I noticed a clicking noise when manually turning the engine, not sure if this is the new VVT or tensioner, but seems to happen when cyl 1 is TDC or all the way down.

I have put some pics and a video in a dropbox folder, hopefully it works :/

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/8bdfftmix...C8mnvp1Xa?dl=0

Attachment 18072Attachment 18073
https://youtu.be/knegJvgcOhY

The procedures are very vague if you’ve been following factory info.

When I set the timing train up initially with timing tools located I leave all bolts including those on the gears, guides and tensioner finger tight only, release the pin from tensioner, tension all the M6 bolts, tension exhaust cam sprocket while using a spanner to hold the camshaft and not allowing the alignment plate to be subjected to that force, same process for the intake camshaft with the VVT unit. By doing things in that order the chain being taught seats the guides and chain in natural position, tensioning the exhaust cam sprocket bolt followed by the inlet/VVT unit while supporting the cams ensures any clockwise movement of the sprocket/VVT still results in the camshaft being correctly timed and any slack in the chain to be pulled around to the tensioner side of the timing chain following the final tensioning of the crankshaft bolt. I also usually only do pre tension on the main crank bolt, remove all the alignment tools and turn the engine by hand 2 revolutions (just shy of TDC #1 ), refit the crank alignment tool, rotate the engine to stop on the tool and recheck the alignment of pulley and camshafts, there is always a resistance to get the cam alignment tool in but nothing drastic. If you’re happy with the alignment at that point full tension of the NEW crank bolt can be done but don’t subject the crank/cam alignment tools to the full tension of that bolt, remove them to avoid damage. I’ve made my own special tool to ensure the crank pulley doesn’t rotate clockwise during that final tensioning process.

Thanks for the guide, that actually makes a lot of sense, I have always followed the manual and the cams never seem to line up with the plate, always have to use a spanner to squeeze it in...

When you say you 'pre-tension' the crank bolt, how do you do this?

My SST is a long tube with 2 X M10 bolts to hold the crank in place, primitive, but it works

- - - Updated - - -

Thanks Nexus

Just a low tension around 50ftlb, enough to hold everything in its position while you rotate the engine for a timing check and not stretch the bolt :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BR1JZL

Thanks for the guide, that actually makes a lot of sense, I have always followed the manual and the cams never seem to line up with the plate, always have to use a spanner to squeeze it in...

When you say you 'pre-tension' the crank bolt, how do you do this?

My SST is a long tube with 2 X M10 bolts to hold the crank in place, primitive, but it works

- - - Updated - - -

Thanks Nexus

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