Thanks Dave, but I don't think you should be down about yours ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by DisturbedDave
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Thanks Dave, but I don't think you should be down about yours ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by DisturbedDave
That looks brilliant, what machine did you use for polishing etc.
Should I be doing it myself if I haven't done it before? :whistle:
My car is Mica Black, with swirls all over and I want to actually get my car back to brand new looking paint 'myself'.
Cheers. I have two machines I use. A Flex PE 14-2 rotary polisher, and a Ryobi random orbital.Quote:
Originally Posted by High on PSI
I'd do some reading up about machine polishing first before leaping into it. There's the potential to cause a lot of damage if you're not 100% sure of what you're doing
I'd start with either a random orbital or a DA (Dual Action) polisher, as they're much easier to work with than a rotary. You need a fair bit of know-how before you step up to Rotary polishers because they're capable of burning through a clear coat in about 15 seconds flat if you don't respect them.
Not trying to scare you away, but it's something that needs a lot of patience, and also a fair bit of research and trial and error. So you need to be pretty honest with yourself and if you're not that way inclined, I wouldn't try it.
Why not come and let Dan work his magic on your black beast. haha :)Quote:
Originally Posted by High on PSI
dan love your work but one issue id like to address, pre delivery detailers have like a max of 1.5 - 2 hrs per car per detail..so the job is never 100%, im sure if they had days to spend on one car they could get the same results, (as per first post comment)
Wish I could! But I'm in Perth :(Quote:
Originally Posted by xliquidx
And yep still got alot of reading to do, pads and etc.
Dessa I never said otherwise. But as you've just alluded to, pre delivery details are generally done to a strict price and time frame. With regard to buffer trails however, it is no matter which way you cut it, an incomplete job as they are induced by the detailer.Quote:
Originally Posted by desssa
The detailer:
A) should not have used such a strong pad/compound combination if he knew he wasn't going to have time for a finishing pass to remove the buffer trails
Or
B) renegotiated for more time to complete the job.
Since B is unlikely, the detailer should have chosen A and not in fact made the finish worse than what it almost certainly would have been when it was originally given to him
A detailer who accepts dealership work has a responsibility to use the time and hourly rate negotiated to the best of their ability. If they can't do that for whatever reason they shouldn't have taken the business.
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true but A will always win.. i see it everywhere . even my wifes new car was not polished or clayed for pd clean.. didnt argue as i knew id do it myself.
Claybars and polishes won't remove buffer trails though. That's kind of my point. The only thing that will remove machine induced buffer trails is another machine polish. Something that your average car buyer should not have to be expected to do themselves.Quote:
Originally Posted by desssa
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Have a chat with Joel at ZAS. He's very helpful and knowledgeable :)Quote:
Originally Posted by High on PSI
I was in the detailing section of Supercheap the other day and this middle aged guy foreign guy was getting detailing advise from one of the female staff members, i just pretended i was really confused by all the products on the shelves in front of me so i could listen to what she was saying.
OMG!!!!!!!!!!
This guy seriously had no idea about detailing cars...which was quite obvious as who would ask advice on detailing at supercheap of all places, most of the young staff members dont know the difference between a spark plug and a screw driver (well that's what i have found)
In the short version....She was advising him to buy a highpowered machine polisher and some meg's wax....and that's all he needed!!!!???
I had to walk away before i slapped her multiple times....but i stayed in the shop so i could advise him on the dangers of the machine in unknowing hands before he ruined his car and point him in the right direction as to what products to use.....but luckily he just bought some carwash and wax, which isnt what he needs but at least he can't do any damage...well i hope not!!!
I have a red MPS 6 and have a fair amount of swirl marks. I have a mother's electric polished (small hand red hand held one) using this what produce might help me get the scratches out?
You're a good person Missy :2thumb:Quote:
Originally Posted by MISSMPS
It's probably slightly better than trying to correct by hand, but I wouldn't expect miracles from it. The right pad and polish/compound combination is extremely important with any machine polishing and something that can take some time to learn (largely through experience)Quote:
Originally Posted by Millsy
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Random orbital or none
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Random orbital is a good way to start. Hard to do any serious damage with them
By the way, I just looked into that Mothers machine. If it's the "Wax Attack" (image below), then it won't give you much, if anything at all in the way of paint correction ability. It's designed purely for wax and polish application, and will have almost zero cutting ability.Quote:
Originally Posted by Millsy
http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/x...THERS/Kit4.jpg
The Mothers one is what i have but i have the 240v version, it seems to be a little more powerful than the battery version. As you mentioned probably not enough to cut through though, next investment random orbital!
I use a Ryobi ERO750VK which is now unfortunately discontinued...... great unitQuote:
Originally Posted by Millsy
Also maybe have a chat to Joel at ZAS. He was making noises about having a low-cost DA polisher maybe becoming available soon. Not sure where he's at with that though.
DA (Dual Action) sits between an RO and Rotary in terms of potential damage you can cause LOL