Hi! I'm a newbie and would love some advise! Service + tune

Hey guys,

My 2010 MPS which I have owned for the past 6 months has just clicked over the 70 thousand mark!

It's been an overall good experience. Power is nice, but finding it difficult to get boost.
Biggest headache has been water getting into the driver side HID, but have somehow managed to get it working (died 4-5 times, sometimes for 2 weeks) by blowing air using a hairdryer through the blinker light via the wheelwell.

I am thinking about bringing it in to my local mechanic who I used to take my old camry to - he mainly deals with jap ecoboxes
I don't want to spend too much on the service (grad job starting in a few months, current pay saving for a deposit)

The owners manual says that the 70k service is only a minor service and pretty simple:

Carry out service to manufacturer specifications.
Inspect drive belts adjust if necessary.
Inspect tyres (including spare) adjusted inflation pressures.
Inspect front and rear brakes inc discs.
Check park brake operation (adjust if required).
Carry out road test to manufacturer handbook.
Carry out tyre rotation (if necessary).
Inspect power steering fluid, lines, hoses & connections.
Inspect brake fluid.
Replace engine oil and filter.

I have already bought 2 x 5L castrol edge 5-30 and a ryco Z632 oil filter already :p - so really all I need them to do is change the oil.

I usually do my own oil changes on my old camry, but I would like a stamp in the logbook for the 70k.


My options are currently to:

1. Take it to my local asian independent mechanic (<5 workers) who might not know much about the car, will they even know how much oil to pour in?

2. Tunehouse/ MRT? Scared they will charge heaps (I live 5km from MRT)

3. A groupon 'yearly service' for like $50? <--- leaning towards this one

4. mazda dealer (tom kerr)



p.s.
Does the oil in the turbo need to be looked at?
Also my brakes might need changing soon: say I go to MRT, and they advise me to change the brakes, do I need to change them to get the 70k stamp in my logbook? (was thinking about supplying the rotor/pads such as dba myself? I would go for the cheapest oem replacements)

And while I'm here, Ill just just chuck in a question about a tune as well.. is it worth it/ what is the cheapest reliable tune (stratified, MRT, tunehouse, or accessport (~$850)?
I hear the stock tune runs a bit rich, and the boost comes in more random then I would like - I would consider a tune that helps with drivability and is relatively economical (not going for power, no supporting mods anyway) that is cheap - any chance theres are good tunes under $300?


Any advice would be greatly appreciated!


Thanks so much for reading!

Hello Ugh and welcome.

Most people would say avoid MRT like the plague.

Tunes are good for the car but better if you can get a custom. Tune House have options for this I'm pretty sure. Access port is another good option and so is versatune. I have an AP myself.

Oil to the turbo is supplied from the engine and won't need a separate check. You might want to read a few of the forum articles on recommended oils too.

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Oops, forgot to say...

Have a good one and best of luck with the car

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by MPS00M

Hello Ugh and welcome.

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Thanks!

I had my suspicions that the oil was the one and same with the engine oil, that's good to know now :)

I too have heard similar things about MRT, they are quite adamant the stock HPFP is adequate for anything under stage 3 ahaha

I have read through the recommended oil threads, and have already bought 5-30W Edge so too late to change lol


Is getting a custom a cheaper (such as tunehouse/versatune), one off solution vs OTS tunes from the AP?
Bearing in mind I have no mods at all, I don't require much flexibility nor is there much room to move anyway in terms of power, hence me just wanting a simple tune (and $850 for the AP seems too much when I am just using the most basic tune) - would a custom tune be safer compared to the most basic AP flash?

Cheers

I guess it comes down to how much you want to spend and what you want out of the car. A stock tune is ok but a tune can get more out of it. If you're not planning on upgrades/mods, I don't think an AP is very cost effective unless you plan to sell everything separate at the end of the day.

A Mazedit tune might be cheaper but I've never really looked into it. If you do plan on mods, an AP is a good choice as it allows you to update the tune as you make changes. Tunes aren't difficult to get hold of or load.

I'm pretty sure I saw an AP3 on here for $650 yesterday, might be something to consider instead of new from the states etc.

Cheers

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Welcome :D

The manual will tell them how much oil to put in. If you don't think they can manage that, don't go there :s
You shouldn't have to get your brake pads/rotors replaced for a sticker, but if they are worn then it's a good idea. If you want to do it yourself, it's not hard to change rotors and pads. There is a service manual available here for VIPs with instructions and just ask if you need more help. Ps Brakes direct is a great place to get your pads and rotors.

The lights are held together with glue. If it's just the glue cracked, you might be able to heat them up to melt the glue and reseal them. Just a thought, never done it...

Dyno tunes from physical shops are easy and probably pretty safe, but they are not cheap, aren't very flexible if you make changes, and you won't necessarily get an MPS expert tuning your car. You pay for a software licence and get a tune that is locked to your car and that shop.

Think of the AP (or Versatune) as a tool to load tunes, rather than a tune itself (yes it comes with OTS tunes, but they aren't great). They let you load tunes from a variety of tuners and aren't locked to one shop. You can also sell the device later on.

If you go down that route, you can get good OTS+ tunes (c. $100 I think) from stratified, freektune etc which will be ideal for stock/mild mods. If you want to mod then a full tune from strat/freek/rayd/others (couple of hundred $) etc can be loaded later using the AP.

If you think you might want to mod in future, that would be the pick. You can probably find a V2 for a lot less $ if you don't need gauges. If you don't want to mod much, maybe even a hypertech would be a cheaper option and you can also sell that if you ever want to mod more.

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Thanks for replies guys, Yup I'm not planning on any mods, the only possible mod I would consider is a CAI (cheaper than a SRI), so I would get some induction noise (only sound I get currently is when I am engine braking to a low rpm, and it gives a low pitch 'rumble'). Any recommendations? Ebay parts vs legit? :smiley:

I understand the AP is good for changing mods, so I don't really can't justify it - $500 maybe, $650 is pretty low though.. (would love unrestricted 123 + gauges)

Have no experience with an actual tune, which I can't easily flash back, so I will stay away - also not cheap



Hey Lachlan,

Thanks for reminding me, I will put the manual back in the car before I go for the service and tell them the specific amount too. I've watched a few videos on changing brakes, and it still seems quite complex :x

Hahaha, I thought a few times about baking them when I was reading up on the light issue, glad I didn't as they work perfectly now ;)

Exactly my point! Not cheap and not flexible!

I understand AP loads tunes, but I thought the OTS AP tunes (especially for stock) would be pretty safe by now??

Do OTS+ tunes include a dyno or something? Otherwise whats stopping people from distributing their paid OTS+ tunes?

Oh cool, havn't heard of hypertech before! They seem to cost $650 inc shipping from the states though!

Cheers


ps. I will most likely take it to my local independent mechanic this coming week, I don't think they can stuff up putting in the correct amount of fuel, especially when I am providing the filter + oil.


EDIT: found Tuning Solutions Thread [http://www.ozmpsclub.com/forum/ecu-m...olutions.html]
- Give me a shout if there are any AP3's for sale/ or where I can find it the cheapest new

The ots+ tunes are pretty good, I've got a Stratified one on car ATM, going nicely! (Had a custom e85 but can't get it easily any more)

You can't resell it as they are locked to your AP, and tailored to your mods... They're just a single file based on what they believe will be a safe tune for you with your mods and fuel. As they've tuned 100's of cars, they can usually make a good guess as to where it'll land. Big benefits over normal ots are better throttle response/smoothness, little bit more power, and better fuel consumption

FYI people: Tunehouse are now Cobb Dealers and are apparently the only factory trained workshop in Australia. My car is with them as we speak having a dyno tune done. I previously had an ECUTEK tune with them but since switching to the AP I have been looking for a reason to get back to being Dyno tuned.

There's definitely pros and cons to the different software, If you want a set and forget tune and aren't interested in changing maps then a Tunehouse ECUTEK tune is what you want. If you like having a handy little gadget that data logs and has the ability to store multiple maps then the AP is what you want.

Once I get my car back I will be able to comment on the results of ECUTEK vs AP. One thing that I can tell you is the AP does not do the SWAS delete table in the same way ECUTEK does. My initial AP tune has very poor throttle modulation at the racetrack, a problem that I never had with ECUTEK thanks to it actually deleting the SWAS table.

Looks like I might need an AP after all :eek:, my Check Engine Light turned on when I when I turned the car on, and stayed on for the 20min drive home. I turned the car on after turning it off at home, in the hope it would go off, but it is still there *cries*

- I am completely stock, no idea why the light would come on
@SarcasticOne, thanks for the info, stratified tune sounds good but too $$ for me
@Reedy Had a look at tunehouse, and while ECUTEK sounds awesome, its still in the $1000's of dollars, if any, I will go with AP so I can resell it later.

Is anyone selling an AP?!

Just so happens that I am going in for a service tomorrow at 8am, so will update... looks like its going to take longer and cost more :(

Can get an OTS+ from Stratified or freek for ~75 USD

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SarcasticOne

Can get an OTS+ from Stratified or freek for ~75 USD

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That will be on my list if I get an AP, any recommendations to where I can get a engine code read, until I can get my hands on my own AP? Mazda wanted $320 for the 70k minor service, so the mechanic I'm going to tomorrow won't have any diagnostic readers..

You can get obd2 readers that work with phones. I had a PLX kiwi WiFi that was great.

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FML did not know that, everyone talking up the AP for reading codes, made me think the normal BT obd2 wouldn't work. Guy is charging me $70 to read it as I speak, never coming back to this guy again!

Supercheap auto do a code reading service starting at 14 bucks: Vehicle Diagnostics Powered by Bosch - Supercheap Auto Australia

OMG. Would definitely have done that if I had known. My engine code is a 'trim LEAN mixture' or something; the mechanic suspects o2 sensor, or MAF. Hope its not going to be too expensive to fix.

Brakes wise, my front pads are dead, so he has recommended me to get the rotor machined and he is going to replace pads + brake fluid for ~$430. I mentioned I wanted to buy my own pads, like remsa or QFM or fp3 pads from brakes direct but he gave me the options of mazda (some bendix), or something about sending it off to get machined and they will put on pads that suit it... Not sure if I should go ahead and let him just to save time. I read our rotors don't have much room to be machined?

My only worry if he sends it off to be machined is that the front rotors will wear out before the new pads do? Or am I just worrying too much (He has not measured rotor yet but what do you guys think from experience? Currently at 71k)

Cheers

$430 seems a shit load just for a pair of front pads and machined discs. You can get a pair of new slotted front DBA t2s and remsa pads for $455 from GSL Rallysport. The remsa pads are only $99 for the pair of fronts. I put Remsas on mine when the car had done 90,000kays and didn't bother machining the discs and haven't had an issue. I do have the slotted T2s ready to go on though.
Depending how far you are willing to travel Mitch aka @MPS2NV of 2nv industries is located at Raymond Terrace and specialises in MPSs does all mechanical/service and diagnostic work.
If you have face book check them out https://www.facebook.com/2NVindustries/?fref=ts

Yeah definitely, its also more because he doesn't machine it himself. That was initially my plan, to buy some rotors and pads and just pay someone to do it. I talked to the mechanic and he said there was like 2mm or 2%? left on the pads so I told him not to change anything. Rotor thickness was like 24mm, which he says can be machined.

I was looking at the remsa pads today ($99), what a coincidence! Matt from Brakes Direct recommend me to get the OFM HPX ($109) for less dust and longevity. Very tempting to go OFM A1RM for $149 or even the Forza FP3 for $169 but he told me they are in a completely different class - and probably incompatible with my needs (I only do street driving, never track) but it seems like a cheap 'upgrade'

Interesting that you have not machined the discs, I guess that is just best practice to do so. Running my bare fingers over the front rotors, I can definitely feel light grooves, which are not on my other cars, nor the rear rotors.

Tossing up between DBA Street Series ($122 each) or 4000 series HD ($182 each) - but again, the 4000 series will be more than I need while costing 50% more, not sure if I can justify for longevity and peace of mind

Need on advice on whether machining is cost effective and how much I should be paying, as new rotors don't need machining.

Thanks for recommending 2NV, but Newcastle is much too far to travel haha


I am sourcing my parts from here:
Brakes Direct - Search results for: 'vehicle'

Cheers

Good luck with the cel. You can try cleaning the MAF and checking for leaks before forking out money.

My 2c: Just replace (or get them to replace and you supply) the rotors, pads and maybe fluid (but you could do fluid later if you want). Don't machine, not worth it (is that $430 including machining?). According to the service manual, 23.8mm is the minimum post-machining thickness and when they get thin you can toast them even on the street (ask me how I know!).

Aggressive pads aren't necessarily an 'upgrade'. They work very well when hot but are noisy, dusty and eat rotors. I'm just about to switch back from wilwood polymatrix to street pads because they are just too harsh. Had Remsa in the past and they are great pads if you go that way.

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Thanks for the reply Lachlan

So far, I have paid for the 70k logbook service + the diagnosis fee ($70) (I now realize I could have used an OBD2 myself or borrowed one). It has thrown one code, he didn't quote me the number but something about running lean. I now can either let him finish the job, and hopefully clean the MAF etc before replacing parts; or I could just pick up the car and try and deal with it myself. Any ideas how much an o2 sensor costs ($~50?). This guy charges through the nose for labour/hr so would even consider going someplace else just to deal with the CEL... but most likely wont bother.. as long as he doesnt overcharge for the sensor price..

Regarding the brakes, his quote definitely includes brake fluid and machining, and iirc is in the region of $400-$420 inc labour. He does know cars, but he doesn't have much idea about this one, even though he could tell it was special. He explained to me large fluctuations in temp commonly cause issues with o2 sensors, which is fair enough, and he knew it was a turbo; although it didn't inspire confidence when he proudly told me my car makes 30% more power than the 08 2.0L 3 also in the shop (try 90%..); he then called me, shocked at the size of the rotors haha

He was also adamant Mazda pads ($320 for front pads) were better then aftermarket, so whatever was included in the $400 quote must have been worse.

I will definitely be ordering the pads myself, and likely be going with the OFM HPX for longevity (remsa is slightly cheaper but more dust, how did you find it?) - I figured aggressive is the right word for those pads, Matt just told me they were not good for my intended uses.

Can I ask how much of your rotors are left (did you machine the old ones before they got toasted?) $122 each for dba street rotors might be worth it rather than machining..

Also, I assume the brake fluid I put in won't matter too greatly, DOT 4 etc if I don't have steel lines or track the car?


Cheers