Suspension Advice Needed!

Hey Guys,

Been reading here for a little while, this is the first time I've actually posted anything! I've had a Gen 1 MPS 3 for several months now (loving it) and recently have started to have some issues with knocking in the front suspension. I've done lots of reading on this and it seems that it's a common issue, although I think my symptoms are different. The knocking is definitely there, but the ride also seems to be worsening (getting harder) and it seems like wheel hop has also got worse. It was due for a service anyway so I asked Mazda to have a look, and they say both the front shocks are leaking pretty badly and need replacing.

Stock replacements from Mazda are pretty expensive for what they are, so I'm planning on upgrading. From what I've read so far it seems like the best option is Koni FSDs. I like the idea of improved handling and ride quality, I don't want a low and hard setup, Tassie's roads atrocious! Does anyone have any recommendations on where to get them? Reputable dealers online? (I'm in Hobart) I've found them on eBay (from the US) for about $780 including postage, and Autocraft in town quoted me about $1100 without installation. I'm happy to install them myself.

Also, is there any real benefit in replacing/upgrading the springs? (I don't want it any harder or much lower)

Cheers!

(Sorry for the long post!)

GSL Rallysport
edge autosport
MAP Performance

FSD's or Bilstien B6's

no need to go springs if you dont want lower

From what your saying and wanting, FSD is what you want. I had them and loved them.
As my father said after he drove my car after we installed them "in 40 years of working on and modifying cars, nothing has made such an improvement as these shocks"

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SarcasticOne

GSL Rallysport
edge autosport
MAP Performance

FSD's or Bilstien B6's

no need to go springs if you dont want lower

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B8...

Bilstein list same p/n for the mazda 3 as the mps.
Mps springs are lower and the mps/sp25 shock stroke length is shorter to the regular 3.

Eibach Australia confirmed this, said b8 only for mps, and so did I when I had stock next to b8's

On that note, eibach direct sell bilstein and Koni, prices discounted for ozmps members. But being In tassie shipping is always added cost.

With the knocking, front strut top bearings commonly fail, front swaybar bushings wear. Both can cause knock. But, if ride is getting worse, your shocks sound like they need changing.

Be sure to replace bearings and swaybar bushings at the same time.
This is what only 56k km's looks like
http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/k...psqctlsvuy.jpg

Both sides literally fell apart.

From what you are after, seems fsd on stock springs would suit well. Also, fsd cannot be used on lowered springs. And be aware that part number is different between mps and non mps, be sure you get the right one

Cheers for the help everyone!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by AzzA SP20

Be sure to replace bearings and swaybar bushings at the same time.

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Is it easiest to just get stock replacement bearings and bushings straight from Mazda? Also, would the shocks come with new dust boots and everything?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jack P

Cheers for the help everyone!



Is it easiest to just get stock replacement bearings and bushings straight from Mazda? Also, would the shocks come with new dust boots and everything?

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Yep, mazda for the swaybar bushings and strut top bearings. Not too expensive.
New shock does not come with dust boots.
You re use the origional boots.

might as well ask here .fsd shocks for mps 6? also are they any good if on a lowered car?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by skeetskeet

might as well ask here .fsd shocks for mps 6? also are they any good if on a lowered car?

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No, and no...
Fsd's are designed to work at stock height on a 3...

Sorry guys one last question! Can I use the stock bump stops on the FSDs, or where can I get new ones? They don't come with them.

I just bought these. Haven't put them in yet.
I've linked you to the koni versions. I bought the bilstein version.
http://fatcatmotorsports.com/FCM_Koni_products_MS3.htm

Also check out your endlinks

+1 to FSD ,these transformed my ride totally and NO ride height change . Try SHOX.com in USA currently approx $725.00 us + freight
+1 to replace strut mount bearings at same time ( weak point) known issues .Try Rosenthal Mazda Arlington USA good service/great price and quick freight .
+1 to Fatcat motorsports Replace front bumpstops /reuse rear OEM bumpstops if they are OK.

Remember exchange rate and freight does bump up the end price!!!!!!
Read and search MSF forum for detailed instructions for removal & replace /plenty of great info and knowledge . Use small amount anti seize grease when installing front strut /to lower mount point!!!!!!!!
Allow plenty of time to do install /front struts can be difficult to remove from lower connecting point. (soak well with CRC or WD40) before hand. ) .
Make sure to line up the top bearing lugs correctly ,there is a slot/keyway inside strut well !!!!!.
Good luck and it is worth the time /money and trouble.

Just in case anyone is interested I might as well follow up.

After bunch of issues with international postage my parts all finally arrived, and I installed the FSDs yesterday. For anyone considering doing this: the backs are super easy, took about 15 min per side. The fronts are a bit more difficult, just getting the bottom of the strut out of the clamp mount takes a while. I found a bit of penetrating oil and then reversing the bolt and placing a little piece of steel between the clamp to space it out made things a lot easier.

When I got the old struts out it was obvious they were completely shot. The ride has just improved a million times, with all the harshness and bounciness completely gone. It handles amazingly well too, coming into corners it just stays so much flatter and feels so much more controlled.

Unfortunately the knocking is still slightly there, although it is way less severe. I got new sway bar bushes in my order as well but I ran out of time yesterday to put them on. I'll do that in the next few days and hopefully that fixes it!

Installed the sway bar bushings yesterday, wasn't nearly as complicated/time consuming as lots of the posts I read on MSF made it out to be! The knocking is finally gone! Thanks for your help everyone.

Year, they are simple. With a bit of thinking and the right tools you don't need to even loosen the cross member.
Took me about half an hour, most of that was consumed by finding the right tools

G'day guys, sorry for bringing back an old thread, but 5 months down the track my knocking is starting to return. It sounds similar to before but as though whatever is knocking is lighter, as it isn't such a solid clunk.

One very different symptom is it seems to go away when the drivetrain is torqued under acceleration. I thought it may have been the CVs so I had a look at them, but the boots seem intact and I can't feel any lateral play. There's also no clicking or buzzing like I've experienced with bad CVs on other cars.

Anybody have any ideas what it could be?