Rear sway bar end link clunk on MPS3

Started hearing a clunk from the rear that even after a couple of days didn't go away so decided to go under and have a look. Should probably mention that I've got a Whiteline rsb installed. Anyway, this is what I saw under the car:

http://i44.tinypic.com/dfg94o.jpg

At this point, I simply thought I forgot to loctite the end link and bolt, so bought a hex nut to replace the original as I couldn't find a direct replacement and then tightened with loctite assuming all was well. I continued to get clunks however these were now more consistent, louder and more pronounced. After trying to figure out what this horrendous sound could possibly be, I naturally leaned towards the end link being the problem. So today after putting up with this noise for quite some time, I decided to pull it out and go for a drive without the end link. Within a few metres I already had a good feeling it was the issue, and by the end of the drive, total tally of clunks, well, still remained at zero!

Just wondering does this mean it's knackered and will need a replacement or can I reuse the original one? I tried playing with the original one though and the sway bolt seems to swerve around fine, however the one that connects up to the chassis was a bit stiff.

Thanks for your help guys!

Yes Possible that end link has shit it self.
Remember that the swaybar hole position being used is the stiffest,which in turn adds increased torque.
The end link is basically a horizontal bearing(allowing free movement) at the knuckle .
Ive had exact same issues and being stupid i used red permanent threadlocker in the belief that the nut at sway bar was working loose. (Red was wrong choice) ended up stripping the allen key/way in end link whilst trying to retighten.
New MPS oem end link and nut was $200.00. Now my clunking is gone totally. Std mazda 3 end link $69.00 and does look exactly the same and Dealer could not explain difference?????.
Also use a torque tool to correct spec (40 to 50 nm) from memory.

Thanks for your reply Oldhead! I would imagine I'd need a replacement endlink but @ $200 for a single replacement is ridiculous!

Are these end links only available for purchase through Mazda dealers or can they be sourced elsewhere?

Whiteline make endlinks.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by levitize

Started hearing a clunk from the rear that even after a couple of days didn't go away so decided to go under and have a look. Should probably mention that I've got a Whiteline rsb installed. Anyway, this is what I saw under the car:

http://i44.tinypic.com/dfg94o.jpg

At this point, I simply thought I forgot to loctite the end link and bolt, so bought a hex nut to replace the original as I couldn't find a direct replacement and then tightened with loctite assuming all was well. I continued to get clunks however these were now more consistent, louder and more pronounced. After trying to figure out what this horrendous sound could possibly be, I naturally leaned towards the end link being the problem. So today after putting up with this noise for quite some time, I decided to pull it out and go for a drive without the end link. Within a few metres I already had a good feeling it was the issue, and by the end of the drive, total tally of clunks, well, still remained at zero!

Just wondering does this mean it's knackered and will need a replacement or can I reuse the original one? I tried playing with the original one though and the sway bolt seems to swerve around fine, however the one that connects up to the chassis was a bit stiff.

Thanks for your help guys!

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There is some massive angles on the endlink also. Have a check to see if the sway bar is centered correctly.

I believe the sway was slightly uneven, but I've taken it off completely now anyway. Is it detrimental to the car to drive without the rear sway or would it just be like having reduced handling capabilities?

Also, where would the best place be (and cheapest) to get a replacement end link + nut?

just shit house handling lol. any reason for putting it on the stiffest setting?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lup15

just shit house handling lol. any reason for putting it on the stiffest setting?

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I didn't try the other setting as I read it was similar to stock so started with the stiffest, liked it, left it as is.

---------- Post added at 11:42 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:00 AM ----------

Just ordered a set of Moog end links to replace the oem ones, will update after I receive/install them. Much cheaper than even a single replacement oem one.

Nice find and god detective work. Moog -K750069 . They def look the part and way stronger also have grease nipples and no allen key/way .
Moog have confirmed the short fall in the OEM design!!!!!
Levitize PM me with there details (cost etc ) also freight costs. Thanks .
I will replace both mine ASAP. :2thumb:

I'd also be interested in finding a good store that sell the moog's. noob question, if I go lowering springs and Bilstein b8's will I require new end links?

Rock Auto sells for 85 delivered give or take.

Lowering springs should not require - and if it ain't broke don't fix it. Upgraded RSBs are generally the catalyst for end link replacement - normally because people loosen them for the first time, forget to put loctite on, and they work loose again over time.

I've had the problem rear it's had after installing Hotchkis RSB, and then again after reinstalling stock bar. The key is loctite, and tighten with a big wrench. Tighter the better.

You may find you migjt not need to replace at all.

By the way Alex - I answered this in an essay long PM you asked me for a couple of weeks ago!

Thanks smokey, yep slipped my mind about the end link replacement piece. I'll go re read the essay