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Hi Guys
Unfortunately while doing some fibreglassing i spilt some resin on my paint :(, and now it has cured and i tried removing a few little areas and the paint chipped off !!!
I tried a bit of acetone but it seems to take forever and i don't want to ruin even more clear coat, even tried a clay bar to little/no effect.
Can anyone please give me some advice on this? Any help is greatly appreciated.
Cheers Shibbs
Maybe speak to someone who does fibreglassing for a living mate. I'm sure you aren't the first to do it.
We have this Paint Decontamination kit that includes an acid cleaner, but I have no idea if that will even work on this kind of thing.
How game are you?
If you are really really careful you could cut the majority of it off with a brand new good quality razor blade
and then you could carefully cut it back with wet and dry
unfortunately, I don't think it will work, especially because of what I've read about gen 2 paint
the chemical reaction of the resin going hard produces a lot of heat, so if you did manage to get it off, I would guess it would still have damaged the paint
you chould wet sand it off
start at like 400 - 800 with a sanding block untill your very close to the paint or just on it.
then progress right thru to 1000 --> 1200 --> 1500 --> 2000 ---> Hand Polish
It sounds scary but will probably be the most effective resolution short of a panel spray
Well guys tried the acetone and got a little bit off but took off clear coat aswell :(. The other parts the paint has peeled off and left just the base coat (like a creamy grey).
Next course of action? I was thinking some mazda colour matched touch up paint? And then probably a good sealer to try and blend it a bit?
Really really annoyed at myself, but alas we all learn
Shibbs
should have gone the wet&dry paper option...
Don't think wet rubbing it would have been successful either.
And besides, ever tried sanding fiberglass?
There is no way you would sand it with the grade paper needed not to cause major damage to the paint
as I said, even if you did manage to sand it off, the heat would have damaged the paint, and that's the reason the paint has done what it has. It softened the paint and probably eaten into it
Do not, I repeat, do not try and sand the paint on a mazda.
P1000 will take you back to undercoat faster than you would believe and P2000 isnt much better.
As for touching up. I have had two tries on two different mazda 3's and have yet to be able to do a decent job on even a small stone chip.
This could partially be down to me being hopeless at it lol, but if the chip you have taken off is bigger than a couple of millimetres, just get the panel resprayed.
Its never going to look any good.
No matter how carefully you put the touch up paint on, the original paint is just too thin.
Trying to sand or cut the touch up down to the thinness of the original paint will end up with burn through in the surrounding paint.
I have even tried using a cotton bud type sanding pad, that didnt work either.
Saw this on Saturday, nothing guna fix that except for 2 things;
A). Front bar respray
B). A light stencil touch up and you'll never know the diff :D
Shiv i've got a m8 thats works at a panel shop that could stencil touch your bar up, he did some touching up on my wipers after the chipped and cant tell the difference :D
Let me know
Metallic colours and clear over base are close to impossible to touch up properly.
To get the paint to match factory perfectly it must be applied exactly the same way. It's so difficult that if you took a door off 1 vr Mazda and put it on another vr Mazda chances are it won't look right.
This is why painters blend metallics
silver cars are just as bad, very difficult colour to match, as any painter, it's their most hated colour
this is why I bought a proper red Mazda. Had a copper red one before and no matter what I did, touchups would go black
best thing to do would not play around with it and get it professionally fixed. The more you play around with it, might make it harder to fix