My stock turbo died at about 120 000km, it isn't as bad as it could be with the BNR replacement options but other than that the MPS reliability is like all others, you win some you lose some. GL HF
Printable View
My stock turbo died at about 120 000km, it isn't as bad as it could be with the BNR replacement options but other than that the MPS reliability is like all others, you win some you lose some. GL HF
Whats a BNR replacement and how much is it for a swap? Need a retune I suppose?Quote:
Originally Posted by Seba
I bought a spare turbo for $150 lol which is a standard k04 the BNR you get as a stage 1 from america or get a standard turbo cheap and get it (high flowed) which is pretty much a BNR stage 1. OK so to get a BNR stage 1 is about a grand and need to work out shipping he has a website just Google BNR turbo orrrrrrr but one of a wreck and get it high flowed with new seals and bearings for about $500.
Dont panic mine has done 111 klms a d still strong ......
Another noob question, why does the stock turbo die? Wear and tear or design issue.....? If it's design issue, changing to another stock one.....will have the same issue over time?
The seals wear through its quite normal for any turbo but you can have the seals fixed
Good day mate I've been an owner for almost a year love the car never knew the potential of this car till I got one as is said look after the car and it will look after you just like in anything I will recommend you to buy one because its a car like no other had many cars such and supra skyline BMW etc nothing comes near not only the power the reliability and comfort cheers mate your in good hands mazda power :)
Thanks for all the confidence votes. The car's scheduled to be checked out by Tunehouse this thursday. Full check + engine compression. Finger's crossed that everything's sweet and i will be a proud owner of a black 08 MPS3 Gen 1 from now on :)
Picked her up this evening :)
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8225/8...5b4b1a3a_c.jpg
Given a all clear from Tunehouse (bar some minor things that needed attention to) Engine compression are all above 160psi, so its in very healthy state :)
Nice one. Hope you enjoyed the trip home... :D
Sent from Samsung Note 2 LTE
Great stuff, be sure to come along to one of our meets.
Yes, keen to go to a meet now :)
Noob question: The air ducts for the TMIC has a split side duct to the battery holder box......why?? Is it because the battery's located close to the turbo, so the duct's there to cool the battery??
To cool the ECUQuote:
Originally Posted by lovecolt
Oh.....that means I can't use it to provide cold air to my pod filter......Quote:
Originally Posted by rayd
You can, it's been done by a few guys in America. Some just did it and took the chance with the ECU getting warm, others relocated the ECU to the cabin.Quote:
Originally Posted by lovecolt
I don't think anyone has ****ed there ECU doing it, but I personally wouldn't risk it! Ecu's are expensive lol
Just get an airbox if your concerned, I did it, cooled my IATs by about 15 degrees! Lol
Would love to get a airbox to cover my COBB SRI. Being monitoring the intake temp through OBDII and i find the temp climb real quick if i sit in traffic for a min or two.
Or maybe i can cut open a hole for the ECU duct to split the air towards the SRI side (although it might be pointless)
Another noob question: What is our engine's code? Like EVO uses 4G63, Subie uses EJ25......etc? I think ours L3VET or something??
Anyone???Quote:
Originally Posted by lovecolt
Another intake option to get air to the SRi on a gen 1:
Attachment 13642
Not sure about wet weather protection though.
That's a good idea, but yes the weather protection might be off. Looks like i have to get the Corksport airbox then, which ain't too expensive.Quote:
Originally Posted by 03blk
A quick Google search seems to say the engine code is L3-VDT.Quote:
Originally Posted by lovecolt
Sent from Samsung Mobile